Do all luxury GMTs have to be traveler GMTS?
Ever since I’ve gotten a GMT, they have become double a point of interest for me. They are immensely handy for my needs. Naturally, this has made me think about maybe getting a really nice one in the future. But, despite what spec hog WIS types may have one believe, not everyone who wants a nice GMT travels for work all the time.
Caller GMTs are the only type of GMT that is relevant to my life and it feels like every nice GMT i run into at the luxury level is a traveler GMT. I love a Grand Seiko But all of them are traveler GMTs it seems. :/
So, are there any luxury-level GMTs at around $5000 or under (preferably) that are caller GMTs?
24-hour clock supremacist, Soviet watch lover, budget bitch, and bit-chuffer ~extrodinaire✨. | he | 🇺🇦☮️🇷🇺. Trying to get the Poljot, Baltic, and Vario badges! Past Hamilton are my actual preferences
The Monta Skyquest and Monta Atlas. They are entry level but are very nice watches.
You could also look for a 12 hr bezel too, kinda the same ability.
You could also look for a 12 hr bezel too, kinda the same ability.
It doesn’t have the same non-ambiguity. And I regularly talk to people more than 12 hours ahead of me.
It doesn’t have the same non-ambiguity. And I regularly talk to people more than 12 hours ahead of me.
Fair enough.
Off the wall idea, but maybe go bespoke? Find a good movement and then get someone like red5 watch works to hand make a case and dial?
The Monta Skyquest and Monta Atlas. They are entry level but are very nice watches.
Nice. The only qualm I have is the needless rebranding of an ETA/Selita movements. But they also openly admit to it being one of those to? It’s a very strange practice and comes across as deceptive.
Unless you like to read the 24-hour hand based on dial position (like we naturally do with the 12 hour hand), I find a rotating 24-hour bezel gives you the "caller" functionality with less fuss
Unless you like to read the 24-hour hand based on dial position (like we naturally do with the 12 hour hand), I find a rotating 24-hour bezel gives you the "caller" functionality with less fuss
Reading the 24-hour hand based on dial position is less reliable since the distinct leaves half the amount of room. I’m not sure what you’re talking about here with that though.
The problem is that a lot of the nicer looking ones, like the dressy GS GMTs, don’t have that option.
Reading the 24-hour hand based on dial position is less reliable since the distinct leaves half the amount of room. I’m not sure what you’re talking about here with that though.
The problem is that a lot of the nicer looking ones, like the dressy GS GMTs, don’t have that option.
I think some people train themselves to read 24-hour time on against a dial without reference numerals. Some can quickly glance at the hand's position and go, "almost 19:00" the way most do the same with a 12 hour hand.
If that's not how you work, the premium options open up more since a rotating bezel will do what you need.
You're right about GS. It's a shame their more compact GMT's have fixed bezels. It's the biggest complaint I have about what used to be my favorite watch.
I think some people train themselves to read 24-hour time on against a dial without reference numerals. Some can quickly glance at the hand's position and go, "almost 19:00" the way most do the same with a 12 hour hand.
If that's not how you work, the premium options open up more since a rotating bezel will do what you need.
You're right about GS. It's a shame their more compact GMT's have fixed bezels. It's the biggest complaint I have about what used to be my favorite watch.
I suppose I will have to just deal with it. There are a good selection of dressy GS GMTs that I like…and I think I maybe have found the one I want the most about 30 minutes ago lol
I can’t think of any. Maybe a GMT Master, vintage, and probably stupid expensive.
I get why you would want a callers gmt in a luxury watch, but since the travelers gmt is the more difficult complication to achieve in watchmaking I’d feel disappointed and would probably view the brand As being stingy with their resources
I get why you would want a callers gmt in a luxury watch, but since the travelers gmt is the more difficult complication to achieve in watchmaking I’d feel disappointed and would probably view the brand As being stingy with their resources
Why would a traveller gmt be more difficult to make?
Some important technical person at Sellita once said in an interview that it really isn't any more difficult and while he obviously has conflicting interest, the argument made sense. One has to just fuse the date and the hand that jumps independently instead. I believe reason for not doing it was that it is more annoying to set a call GMT, and as someone who recently cycled through 10+ days on a travel GMT watch I can confirm that fact... and when overused these jump hour mechanisms like to break.
I think the problem is Rolex makes travel GMTs. So they are seen as some sort of standard and some, as you say, would perceive a caller GMT as inferior because that's how ETA/Sellita do them.
I get why you would want a callers gmt in a luxury watch, but since the travelers gmt is the more difficult complication to achieve in watchmaking I’d feel disappointed and would probably view the brand As being stingy with their resources
Unlike the time + date watches they’d be selling alongside it, of course…
Gonna be totally honest, that’s not a good way to approach this. And if you’re selling GMTs, they should have a bit more use than only the elite of society.
Why would a traveller gmt be more difficult to make?
Some important technical person at Sellita once said in an interview that it really isn't any more difficult and while he obviously has conflicting interest, the argument made sense. One has to just fuse the date and the hand that jumps independently instead. I believe reason for not doing it was that it is more annoying to set a call GMT, and as someone who recently cycled through 10+ days on a travel GMT watch I can confirm that fact... and when overused these jump hour mechanisms like to break.
I think the problem is Rolex makes travel GMTs. So they are seen as some sort of standard and some, as you say, would perceive a caller GMT as inferior because that's how ETA/Sellita do them.
I’m not against traveler GMTs. They have their place, but then taking up the entire “nice watch” GMT space is a bit absurd. And watch enthusiasts don’t help the situation since there are so many spec hogs that chant for it.
Yeah that’s kinda what I think to. They see Rolex doing it so it’s like a “““standard””” and they want a slice of that pie.
It’s an interesting topic, there are are only a handful of microbrands doing travelling GMTs under £1500 and even then most are a bit compromised. You then get in to the 2k and above and Longines the GS, Tudor before you step up in costs to Rolex etc. for a very nice quality desk GMT then Christopher Ward is a great place to start. I can’t think of anything above this but this has great looks and the new bracelet is very nice. They do a 60/60 thing where you can order and if you don’t like it when it arrives they will take it back as long as it’s not been worn.
I’m not against traveler GMTs. They have their place, but then taking up the entire “nice watch” GMT space is a bit absurd. And watch enthusiasts don’t help the situation since there are so many spec hogs that chant for it.
Yeah that’s kinda what I think to. They see Rolex doing it so it’s like a “““standard””” and they want a slice of that pie.
Monta makes nice call GMTs, with and without rotating bezel. And there is of course Breitling who just recently introduced a call GMT.