Review 1: Kurono Tokyo - GMT 1

I've been following Kurono Tokyo since I first began to explore my interest in watches in mid-late 2020. I resisted the urge to pick up the Anniversary 2021 Toki. I let the beautiful Seiji pass me by. I stuck it out as Kurono launched their Chronographs, then their "Calendrier." I was captivated by the Grand Urushi dials, which accentuated tradition, technique, and classical yet complex beauty. I have continuously appreciated the straightforward elegance of Hajime Asaoka's designs as manifested in Kurono Tokyo’s releases.

If I could go back in time, there are a select few of their watches I would love to have purchased. It is because I have followed Kurono Tokyo for this long, waiting thoughtfully, and spent time exploring my preferences in this hobby that made me certain this watch, the GMT 1, should be the Kurono Tokyo I purchased.

Based on the first impressions found in forum posts following the announcement of the GMT 1, it was clear that this was a pretty controversial piece. The predominant view vocalized at launch was negative and/or critical. While criticism is quite common for Kurono Tokyo releases, I say quite confidently that objectively negative reception has been rare. I say this to contextualize the fact that my impressions of the GMT 1’s design at the time of the announcement were all over the place.

When I opened the announcement email, I was utterly captivated. Not only had I been waiting for a GMT to “complete” my collection, but I’d also been quietly hoping for Kurono Tokyo to launch a GMT ever since the release of the Miyota 9075. And here it was. A Kurono Tokyo GMT featuring the 9075. The concept alone was one I’d been greatly anticipating, and I was blown away by what I saw. A unique bezel, beautiful inky blacks on the dial with splashes of an excellent burgundy red, art deco numerals, and the rest of the standard affair for Kurono (case polishing, conservative dimensions, brilliant hands). Spoiler, these features that I found alluring at the start are the same ones that won me over and continue to impress me now. But I did say that my impressions were “all over the place,” didn’t I? Well, I went through with ordering one. And when the time came, I did not to miss out on the drop.

Like many of those forum commenters, I too had some gripes/concerns about the design. Let's start with the specifications. The watch case is fully polished (save some elements of the caseback), has no screw-down crown, works a friction-rotating bezel, and is "only" 50M water resistant. These are some very strange decisions for a GMT, which are often built as sporty and durable watches. But the GMT 1 isn't a sports watch; it was designed to be a dressy watch with sporty elements. Let us bear this intention in mind as we move on. Many initial critiques pointed out that the watch is busy/cluttered. This is objectively true. There are 24 numerals on an inner ring, 12 on the regular hour track, and another set of numerals/markers on the bezel. Oh, and the date window of course. All on a (relatively) small watch at 38mm. It's busy, there's no arguing otherwise, but the dial is deceptive in its complexity. It all comes down to a few discreet colors and printed art deco numerals. Admittedly, I was quite disappointed that the inner 24-hour ring, while attractive, did not live up to the brilliant shades of red depicted in the marketing materials.

The finishing of the GMT 1 is stellar. The polishing is brilliant across the board. Every facet is near-perfect. Some have complained that the shape and polishing of the hands make it too hard to tell the time. It can be mildly difficult to read at times, but that is only to say that it may take more than a moment on occasion. I was surprised to find that, in addition to their beauty, it is shockingly easy to find them even in tough/low-light situations. Have I mentioned that nearly every detail of this watch is done a disservice in photographs? The dial has more depth than the pictures suggest. The gray hour ring bears a slight 3-dimensionality to it that I have not seen captured in photos; the inky black of the center dial and especially of the minute track are absolutely captivating. All of the printing is flawless. I could go on, but I will summarize by saying that, although there is plenty of valid criticism to be made about this watch, none of it holds water when you're looking at it/wearing it in person. Personal preference/subjective tastes aside, this watch beats out almost every drawback. All except for one: the bezel.

The friction-fit bezel is the only objective "miss." Some might disagree, but I found it to be quite a let-down. The bezel design is, aesthetically, a homerun. It's one of my favorite elements of the watch. The friction rotation though was a bad call. It feels very satisfying to set and turn but is too soft. I have no problem with the decision to go friction, but if it can be brushed out of place with any ease, that's a problem. This bezel will move around on you, and that's an absolute L in my book.

On a more personal note, I was let down pretty hard by the strap. Not the quality, oh no, the quality is much more than satisfactory. It's the pin-holes! I have a small wrist, and the strap did not have enough holes to accommodate it. This had me floored, considering that Kurono Tokyo is quite well-known for making classically sized watches that accommodate smaller wrists! I know I am not the only person who had to go to a jeweler to have a few more holes punched in.

So if you were paying attention at the beginning of this review, and have made it this far, you probably noticed that I have a lot to say about the GMT 1- both good and bad. I told you I was all over the place... twice, but the final verdict is obviously a win. This watch is great. A little bit pricey for what you get, but not unreasonably so. It has the right movement, comes from the right brand, is assembled and finished to the right standards, and damn does it succeed in being both unique and beautiful.

That's my review. I think it's an absolute banger of a watch, but will I keep it for the long haul...? That's a much more complex conversation, and I think I've waffled on long enough.