Time-graphers VS. Apps...

Do you check the accuracy of your mechanical watches with a Time grapher?

I haven't invested in a Timegrapher, however I do like to track and measure the accuracy of my mechanical watches.

I've been using two apps to measure the accuracy. One is the Atomic Clock, basically you measure the time keeping of the watch from one day or week to another. The other is Watch Accuracy Meter, it listens with the microphone of your smartphone to measure much like a timegrapher does.

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I recently bought a timegrapher on Amazon (Weishi 1000, which seems to be the most common model) as some of my watches were not running too great. My watchmaker told me that although the daily loss or gain is relatively easy for him to adjust in many cases, the real issue can be read from the (lack of sufficient) amplitude and/or the beat error. Based on that number, I now know which watches to bring in for maintenance. If the apps can give you a clear view of those values, you should be good. #timegrapher #beaterror #general #maintenance

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technl

I recently bought a timegrapher on Amazon (Weishi 1000, which seems to be the most common model) as some of my watches were not running too great. My watchmaker told me that although the daily loss or gain is relatively easy for him to adjust in many cases, the real issue can be read from the (lack of sufficient) amplitude and/or the beat error. Based on that number, I now know which watches to bring in for maintenance. If the apps can give you a clear view of those values, you should be good. #timegrapher #beaterror #general #maintenance

Time accuracy meter app has an "experimental" mode that gives the amplitude also. I use it all the time to adjust ST3600 and NH35 movements that I use in my builds. I do not have a timegrapher to compare it to, but I think I saw a video on YouTube sometime ago that compares the results.

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I use something similar. Mines called timegrapher. I use it with a microphone.

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I just bought a really cool one without a built in screen and "computer". It plugs into a computer, tablet or phone.

https://www.watchcrunch.com/morrcarr67/posts/timegrapher-21-383112#comment-1568331

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First, I preface my comment to say I answered way more than u probably asked. But, it may be useful information, possibly. Continue reading behind my quick answer below, if you care.

So, to quickly answer your question and give my opinion, I think apps are more accurate to represent actual watch usage on wrist... Assuming you are measuring during those moments. I think that is when you want to know when watch is moving with all the dynamic factors. Timegrapher only measures static position. Good for other things as I'll mention below.

I use both a timegrapher and app. More so an app. IMHO, a timegrapher is good to get a measurement of the baseline performance the watch should be doing in any given position.

But, I've always found that I formation to be useless sonce actual wear and usage of watch on wrist will tell me something different when measuring and keeping an ongoing record or my watch's accuracy. That's ultimately the most accurate way to gauge how your watch is actually performing as the watch will never really be in static position as on a timegrapher.

If I'm finding the accuracy of my watch is off and deviating too much based on app information, I will use a timegrapher to help regulate the watch myself. Again, the timegraphwr will usually show aomething different. That doesn't matter too much as I will make adjustments based on app information.

For me example, of the watch is running +12 s/d, and the app is showing +2 s/d, I will guestimate adjusting the regulation to maybe around -10 s/d.. in theory, that should get me in the ballpark of +0 s/d... I need to reduce the deviation by -12 s/d to get to zero deviation... or at least closer to it than where the watch was at. Logically, that seems to make sense.

But, the adjustments don't always yield proportionate changes to the accuracy. It really depends on the specific watch and how it was put together, etc. Some easier to fix thebfo at time. Others may take a couple tries, some many more if the movement is terribly irratic.. eh-hem, Seiko 6R movements...

I will only really use 2 most common positions when on the timegrapher, dial side up and 12 down... You're likely to keep the watch dial side up to read it and 12 down is common cause you will have hand and arm out with watch in that position say while driving and holding objects. I'll make my regulation adjustments based on those 2 positions primarily.

There is no 100% way to nail the regulation to be most accurate. I just have to take my app and timegrapher information and adjust to what I "feel" is about right to get a more accurate performance. When the timegrapjer reading seems "right", I'll close up the case back and give the watch a test run on the wrist for a few days, preferably a week, and see where the adjustments to the regulation settle down at.

If all good, no need to go back in. If still not satisfactory, then I adjust regulation based on previous information as well as current and refer back to mental notes on what I did to adjust last so I can better fine tune my adjustments the next attempt to regulate.

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Beware exposing your fine automatic watch to electromagnetic fields repeatedly or for extended durations. Depends on the phone you’re using. DEFINITELY keep them far from MagSafe charging.

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I use the Twixt app in order to check accuracy, reliable and easy.

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Yeah, i've used the Watch Accuracy Meter app to check most of my autos.

Because I rotate watches daily, I never really need to know which static position keeps the best time. The exception is generally my Air King. I often put that back on wrist before the power reserve runs out, so if I can keep it running as close to 0spd in the watch box, it'll mean I don't have to re set it each time.

The app suggests that dial-down will gain the most time, and crown-up will keep me closest to 0spd. Hence, that'll be how I keep it in the watchbox.

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I have a timegrapher that I use to check watches that I’ve recently acquired to check their overall health. Beyond that, I check them against the atomic clock every once in a while to make sure they are still accurate.