First, I preface my comment to say I answered way more than u probably asked. But, it may be useful information, possibly. Continue reading behind my quick answer below, if you care.
So, to quickly answer your question and give my opinion, I think apps are more accurate to represent actual watch usage on wrist... Assuming you are measuring during those moments. I think that is when you want to know when watch is moving with all the dynamic factors. Timegrapher only measures static position. Good for other things as I'll mention below.
I use both a timegrapher and app. More so an app. IMHO, a timegrapher is good to get a measurement of the baseline performance the watch should be doing in any given position.
But, I've always found that I formation to be useless sonce actual wear and usage of watch on wrist will tell me something different when measuring and keeping an ongoing record or my watch's accuracy. That's ultimately the most accurate way to gauge how your watch is actually performing as the watch will never really be in static position as on a timegrapher.
If I'm finding the accuracy of my watch is off and deviating too much based on app information, I will use a timegrapher to help regulate the watch myself. Again, the timegraphwr will usually show aomething different. That doesn't matter too much as I will make adjustments based on app information.
For me example, of the watch is running +12 s/d, and the app is showing +2 s/d, I will guestimate adjusting the regulation to maybe around -10 s/d.. in theory, that should get me in the ballpark of +0 s/d... I need to reduce the deviation by -12 s/d to get to zero deviation... or at least closer to it than where the watch was at. Logically, that seems to make sense.
But, the adjustments don't always yield proportionate changes to the accuracy. It really depends on the specific watch and how it was put together, etc. Some easier to fix thebfo at time. Others may take a couple tries, some many more if the movement is terribly irratic.. eh-hem, Seiko 6R movements...
I will only really use 2 most common positions when on the timegrapher, dial side up and 12 down... You're likely to keep the watch dial side up to read it and 12 down is common cause you will have hand and arm out with watch in that position say while driving and holding objects. I'll make my regulation adjustments based on those 2 positions primarily.
There is no 100% way to nail the regulation to be most accurate. I just have to take my app and timegrapher information and adjust to what I "feel" is about right to get a more accurate performance. When the timegrapjer reading seems "right", I'll close up the case back and give the watch a test run on the wrist for a few days, preferably a week, and see where the adjustments to the regulation settle down at.
If all good, no need to go back in. If still not satisfactory, then I adjust regulation based on previous information as well as current and refer back to mental notes on what I did to adjust last so I can better fine tune my adjustments the next attempt to regulate.
Who said I'm not?! 😂 But, seriously, that new Carrier is great... Maybe some day.. I would say it makes receiving this watch that more enjoyable being Carrier did a very similar dial color for that new backwards movement release.. not, the same thing at all.. but,makes me feel happy that 2 new square(ish) watches looking great and appreciated.
The second crown is used to lock down the rotating "Second-Setting" bezel.
During the early years of WW2, most watches did not have ability to hack and stop the seconds hand. Bring that time synchronization is critical in navigation, to work around this technical issue, the user would alternatively reset the starting position of the seconds hand by setting to a known time signal.
In my photos, you can see I have reset the start of the seconds hand to about 15 second position. So, every time the second hand passes the 60 on the bezel, that will be the top of the minute. Make sense?
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