Review: The Citizen That Rewrote My Map
It's not unusual for watch collecters to gravitate towards something like a specialization, giving their collection a "personality" reflective of their self image. After an initial few years of trying out a range of watch types, I'd established mine: Field watches and GMTs (that were preferably also field watches). My expressed personality? Functional Artist. Not some fanciful thinker, but a doer, a grounded creator who pounded pavement and scrambled over debris to make his art. Partly bullshit? Sure, whose story isn't a little bit bullshit? But true enough. It's not like I never bought the occasional evocative, or less serious piece, but I really did need watches that could take a few knocks, and look correct in relation to the workwear and technical clothing I was typically wearing.
The internet helpfully figured out what I wanted, and kept showing me the Citizen Promaster Tough, and I kept passing on it. It was just too streamlined and tidied up, and probably too big for me, too. The funny thing is that if the internet had thought to show me some other variants of the same watch, I would've bought one immediately (check out the "Ray Mears" edition and you'll see why). The funnier thing is, despite rejecting it, I kept looking at it every time.
And then, last year, I bought it.
The watch that arrived is thoroughly a Citizen, with its 42x50mm footprint. But like many watches from the brand, the Tough's mass wears better than it should, and I was surprised to realize it's only 10.5mm thick. The lugs should appear to badly overhang my 6.5" wrist, but their downturn - and the lack of a caseback protrusion - make for a close, comfortable fit. That fit is best when worn with the robust bracelet, which balances the case and reduces movement (I think the watch looks great on a strap, but it gets slightly wobbly on my wrist).
Yeah, it has a monocoque case design, meaning that there's no failure point on the back of the watch. Any access to the case has to come from the front crystal, but since it's a solar movement that shouldn't come up for a while.
As seen above, the many design and finishing choices evoke TOOL WATCH, but everything is smoothed out and distilled. The bezel, for instance, reminds us of many plain, polished bezels on many explorer's watches that have come before, except this one is distinguished by bands of varying brushing/blasting, and the dimensions are tweaked toward something bolder. Indices that might normally be chunky numerals (with 24 scale added, perhaps), are batons that could happily live on a diver. Minutes are removed to the rehaut for visual simplicity. True to Citizen's typical build quality, the seconds hit those markers nearly flawlessly. The lume is good (although not astounding), with the subtle functionality detail of different colors on the hour and minute hands. The package communicates more purpose than I'd expected, but it does so with plenty of class.
What spurred me to submit to this watch was that sense of assured classiness. It's a watch you can wear on an adventure, and then to a nice dinner where you tell stories about that adventure. And I'm entering a period where my ratio of adventures to stories is shifting. I'm not only out in adverse conditions, getting the shot, I'm meeting with clients. I'm not only pursuing my own vision, I'm working a photography day job as part of a team in a marketing department.
Since falling for the Citizen Tough, I've become more open to watches that lean into a certain poetry and refinement, on top of their functionality. In the months since I've added retro-inspired divers (Glycine, Lima, Imperial), dressier sports watches (Houtman, Maen, Wise, Tissot), and additional elevated field/explorer's models (Serica, Nivada Grenchen) to my collection. I still love my more typical field watches and GMTs, but this watch truly helped open new territories.
Photographer and multimedia artist working in the Upper Midwest, USA. I started paying attention to watches circa 2010, and now enjoy a collection ranging from vintage Soviet pieces to field watches a...
Very nice 👍🏻
Good choice! I have the Ray Mears and to be fair probably don't need any other watches ( annoyingly small date window aside!)
Solid write up and review. I’ve yet to see a review of the Citizen Tough didn’t live up to its model name. I also do agree, I think it has looks to boot.
Very eloquent. I have 5 different Citizen and your post perfectly describes my feeling towards Citizen.
I worked for Toyota and Lexus for 25yrs and they received the same description that Citizen does, vanilla, boring... But no one ever doubted the attention to detail and the build quality!
Citizen is unapologetically perfect in many regards of having a quality every person watch, all sizes, function and form. Thanks for your review.
I soooo understand your point mate !
Since I got my Promaster Land back in february, I have that strange feeling that, yeah, one watch can suits all my needs, or so close.
I looked at the exact same model than you but passed beacause of the size. Wanted a 45mm lug to lug max, which is not that common in the +36mm range.
Congrats on your take and very cool review.
Very well written.
I also look for a more "tool watch" design and a flat back side.
And you can't go wrong with a Citizen.
I might get something like this someday if they update the overly complicated menus and a more functional screen.
You might want to try titanium someday for added comfort if you haven't tried it yet.
Good choice! I have the Ray Mears and to be fair probably don't need any other watches ( annoyingly small date window aside!)
I tell myself that I'm holding out for the best deal on one, but honestly I think I'm afraid that once I have one my collection will be "finished."
Solid write up and review. I’ve yet to see a review of the Citizen Tough didn’t live up to its model name. I also do agree, I think it has looks to boot.
Thanks. It is a handsome piece. It has the feeling that every millimeter was tweaked just so.
Good review of a great watch! I love the Promaster series from Citizen and have three in my collection. After reading your review, I may have to add one of the Promaster Tough watches. 😁
I soooo understand your point mate !
Since I got my Promaster Land back in february, I have that strange feeling that, yeah, one watch can suits all my needs, or so close.
I looked at the exact same model than you but passed beacause of the size. Wanted a 45mm lug to lug max, which is not that common in the +36mm range.
Congrats on your take and very cool review.
Thanks! I can't remember why I ultimately disregarded the watch's paper measurements, but I'm glad it worked (although definitely at the top of my range, not counting G-Shocks). If Citizen could get over their insistence on making 42+ by 50-odd cases that somehow fit and made more < 39x45's, I swear they'd rule the world.
Very well written.
I also look for a more "tool watch" design and a flat back side.
And you can't go wrong with a Citizen.
I might get something like this someday if they update the overly complicated menus and a more functional screen.
You might want to try titanium someday for added comfort if you haven't tried it yet.
Yeah, That second one is a beast. It looks at least twice as complex as my Nighthawk, and that's already bonkers!
Respect for the Casio analog subbrands, too. They really swing for the fences with those (eventually I'll do a writeup re my Oceanus).
Very eloquent. I have 5 different Citizen and your post perfectly describes my feeling towards Citizen.
I worked for Toyota and Lexus for 25yrs and they received the same description that Citizen does, vanilla, boring... But no one ever doubted the attention to detail and the build quality!
Citizen is unapologetically perfect in many regards of having a quality every person watch, all sizes, function and form. Thanks for your review.
Yes, they are a very well-respected brand that somehow still don't get close to the respect they deserve.
That orange dial in the center is a real looker. What's the model?
Yeah, That second one is a beast. It looks at least twice as complex as my Nighthawk, and that's already bonkers!
Respect for the Casio analog subbrands, too. They really swing for the fences with those (eventually I'll do a writeup re my Oceanus).
Yeah those Oceanus look nice.
Though I feel they are a bit too busy for a dressy watch.
Lineage series has a few really nice titaniums that fit my style better. Especially with numerals which push it more towards a field watch look.
Good review of a great watch! I love the Promaster series from Citizen and have three in my collection. After reading your review, I may have to add one of the Promaster Tough watches. 😁
Thanks! Yeah, Promaster is a great line, with a number of gems.
Yes, they are a very well-respected brand that somehow still don't get close to the respect they deserve.
That orange dial in the center is a real looker. What's the model?
I agree that Citizen does not get the respect they deserve. I think the Promaster line of watches are really overlooked as great tool watches that are comparable to tool watches from other brands that get far more respect in the watch community. However, I also think Citizen does a lot of harm to their reputation with all the licensed property watches; Marvel, Star Wars, Disney, and now Avatar! I just got an email with new Citizen releases, and there are three new Avatar models. I think producing too many watches with licensed properties does some damage to a reputation as a serious watchmaker. There is no problem with releasing watches with licensed properties; Seiko and Street Fighter, Timex and Peanuts (and others), Casio and Pac Man (again, and others), heck, even Audemars Piguet and Spider-Man! But it seems that over half of the Citizen catalog are watches with licensed properties on the dials. Yes, that may be an exaggeration, but I do think it damages the reputation of Citizen and makes them seem more like a fashion brand than a brand with serious history and heritage. Just my two cents worth. 😉
“It's a watch you can wear on an adventure, and then to a nice dinner where you tell stories about that adventure.” Awesome line
“It's a watch you can wear on an adventure, and then to a nice dinner where you tell stories about that adventure.” Awesome line
Hey, thanks!