Upgrading a watch movement
I currently own the new Squale 1545. I absolutely love everything about it minus the standard Sellita SW 200-1 movement. I would like to upgrade to the COSC grade SW200. Does anyone have any experience with upgrading the watch movement in a watch you own? Would you not recommend, recommend ? Have you upgraded the movement yourself ? if so, where did you purchase the movement from? If you have gone to a watch maker, what was your experience in terms of cost, time etc ?
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May I ask what is wrong with the existing movement? If it is accuracy, for a few bucks, any local watchmaker will regulate it for you.
As far as COSC, you cannot simply buy a COSC movement . A brand has to submit them through an approved process:
https://www.thewatchcompany.com/blog/watches-buying-guide/what-is-cosc-a-complete-guide-to-the-chronometer-certification/
Now, there are upgraded versions, or grades, of movements. Thats a pretty straight forward job if you have the right tools and skills, but the ask is, is it worth it? Probably not.
Not to use a car reference but…is it worth putting a Lexus F Sport based engine in a Yaris?
I would determine the why behind your ask to get to the root of what you’re trying to do, there may be a cheaper option.
Edit, I see from a previous post it is accuracy. Make sure your watch isn’t magnetized and then perhaps have it regulated. A higher end version of the 200 will set you back over $200.
Gotta ask-What's the point?
If it's an accuracy thing just get the original movement regulated. It's a solid case back so you won't even know it's in there.
Or maybe sell it and get a COSC Squale 1521.
May I ask what is wrong with the existing movement? If it is accuracy, for a few bucks, any local watchmaker will regulate it for you.
As far as COSC, you cannot simply buy a COSC movement . A brand has to submit them through an approved process:
https://www.thewatchcompany.com/blog/watches-buying-guide/what-is-cosc-a-complete-guide-to-the-chronometer-certification/
Now, there are upgraded versions, or grades, of movements. Thats a pretty straight forward job if you have the right tools and skills, but the ask is, is it worth it? Probably not.
Not to use a car reference but…is it worth putting a Lexus F Sport based engine in a Yaris?
I would determine the why behind your ask to get to the root of what you’re trying to do, there may be a cheaper option.
Edit, I see from a previous post it is accuracy. Make sure your watch isn’t magnetized and then perhaps have it regulated. A higher end version of the 200 will set you back over $200.
Previous post indicates that OP regulated it to +4 spd and was happy with the result.
COSC and Top/Premium Grade are the same movement with the only difference being the COSC certification. Personally, I wouldn’t bother with the upgrade though. I’d rather take that money and spend it on another watch.
May I ask what is wrong with the existing movement? If it is accuracy, for a few bucks, any local watchmaker will regulate it for you.
As far as COSC, you cannot simply buy a COSC movement . A brand has to submit them through an approved process:
https://www.thewatchcompany.com/blog/watches-buying-guide/what-is-cosc-a-complete-guide-to-the-chronometer-certification/
Now, there are upgraded versions, or grades, of movements. Thats a pretty straight forward job if you have the right tools and skills, but the ask is, is it worth it? Probably not.
Not to use a car reference but…is it worth putting a Lexus F Sport based engine in a Yaris?
I would determine the why behind your ask to get to the root of what you’re trying to do, there may be a cheaper option.
Edit, I see from a previous post it is accuracy. Make sure your watch isn’t magnetized and then perhaps have it regulated. A higher end version of the 200 will set you back over $200.
The movement is a bit erratic. On wrist, it gains a handful a seconds a day. Off wrist, that number jumps to 15-20 seconds fast a day. I can’t imagine that it is magnitized based on the on wrist accuracy. I would like better rate stability that may be achieved by regulating the movement but figured tighter tolerances that COSC movements require would be optimal.
Gotta ask-What's the point?
If it's an accuracy thing just get the original movement regulated. It's a solid case back so you won't even know it's in there.
Or maybe sell it and get a COSC Squale 1521.
I imagine a scenario where it is regulated, but still erratic and I am told “Well, it’s within the standard range for a standard Sellita movement” A COSC movement would assure a tighter tolarance. I am not a fan of the Squale 1521. I prefer a crown at the 3 o’clock position and 40mm or less case size. I essentially love everything about the 1545 minus the movement.
Did you contact Squale? I assume it's under warranty? You may very well "imagine" wrong.
They will refer you to their US based warranty AD for service.
They helped me.
(however your having opened the caseback, if apparent will ,probably void the warranty)
Previous post indicates that OP regulated it to +4 spd and was happy with the result.
The watch runs well on wrist but erratic off.
Did you contact Squale? I assume it's under warranty? You may very well "imagine" wrong.
They will refer you to their US based warranty AD for service.
They helped me.
(however your having opened the caseback, if apparent will ,probably void the warranty)
I haven’t mainly because the watch is running with the normal accuracy range. For that reason I doubt they will touch it and you might be right. The warranty is probably void at this point.
To get a cosc, you could sell yours and pick up this one!
This is where I think owning a few mechanicals gives me a blind spot. After 25-30 seconds after one day, I’d have set it down and worn something else the next day. I’m not sure I’d ever be able to tell!
I’ve never once wished a watch was more accurate outside of maybe a Seiko 5.
If it was my only one, maybe I’d notice with daily wear? Interesting that you’ve said the time keeping jumps when set down. I’ve a card with my Studio Underdog that has recorded any time gain or loss, even with the chrono running all in multiple positions. I’ve never really considered that I’d even notice the difference between stationary and on the wrist.
Interesting to read though! We all love watches but we all have very different requirements and expectations from them 😄
I agree with others who have mentioned it, if the COSC certification is really that important to you, the best course of action would be to get a Squale that has it (e.g. 1521COSCL), as apposed to the effort involved trying to source a COSC movement on your own, and retrofitting it into your existing watch. Unless you really are into that kind of tinkering with your watches. Good luck.
Hmm you could buy a verified TOP grade off eBay or similar and have a watchmaker regulate it to Cosc or better. All Chronometer SW-200-1s start life as a TOP grade movement