The honeymoon continues . . .

Have a tiny work trip coming up to the town of my alma mater (Iowa from Minnesota) that won’t require me to really set the GMT function, but still taking this Kurono GMT. Is it a perfect watch? No, I def have some quibbles . . . But overall this honeymoon period is pretty serious. Didn’t expect to like the watch as much as I am . . . Nice blend of art deco classy and subtly sporty and with a distressed brown strap there’s def an old timey quality to it that I love.

The dial and overall design is why people buy a Kurono. There are so many people that cry out “but Miyota!” Who cares? That’s not the point and not why these watches have their price point and what’s wrong with a Miyota movement anyway? There is price value in design alone, which so many watch enthusiasts seem to oddly disregard. But of course we all buy for different reasons. Some of us are movement kings, some just want utility, some are worried about what others might think etc. If you don’t care about design or about the association with one of the most famous and well-regarded watchmakers in the world (Hajime Asaoka) then there’s not much to convince someone of a Kurono. That’s fine. But I like the brand for both of those reasons (and it’s a nice somewhat attainable alternative offering to the omnipresent Seiko . . . This is a brand that beats to its own drum if you’re wanting a somewhat different Japanese watch).

Additionally, due to low production numbers and limited/rarely repeated runs, there’s a small but growing community of Kurono enthusiasts that feels like you’re in a kind of club. This particular watch will not be repeated and pre-orders closed within about a half hour or so (a longer than usual time due to technical matters). I like knowing that my watch isn’t being worn by thousands or tens of thousands of people. Nothing wrong with mass production watches. But this is also probably why I also spend a great deal of time figuring out which special or limited Speedmaster (vintage or otherwise) actually speaks to me. Like that Al Franken Saturday Night Live character, I want my watch dials to whisper “Gosh darn it I’m special and people like me!” Haha.

Anyway . . . The dial here is both a strength and weakness. It’s beautiful with its conversation between black, burgundy, and slate gray, but certainly crowded with numerics esp given the modest proportions of the watch. While certainly legible and useable as a GMT, if you’re the kind of person that just wants to glance down to check a diff time zone then this watch isn’t for you. It does take maybe a few seconds rather than one or two seconds for your eyes to fall where they need to. I don’t mind that but this is a reality of this dial. I do wish the date window was slightly larger.

The hour and minute hands have long been criticized by detractors of every Kurono. I get this if you don’t own one, but once you handle one for a bit you’re not likely to mistake which one is which . . . Okay, that’s a blatant lie, but it’s really not that bad. The minute hand goes all the way to the edge of the dial and tapers to a thin line. Easy enough.

The rotating bezel distinguishes night/day not with the typical two color scheme but with art deco-ish lines on one half. This bezel also does not have a ratcheting or clicking sound. This is a smooth movement in either direction that will not budge accidentally. It’s buttery soft and yet the tightness is assuring.

Perhaps my biggest gripe is setting the watch. The mechanics of this are expected re: positions of crown and rotating the bezel, but the crown is quite small and the squat rounded/domed profile can make it difficult to manuever with precision. I have hands of modest/average size, and I suspect those with larger hands might struggle. There does seem to be a learning curve with manipulating this crown . . . You’re not going to get a clear sense in terms of clicks to determine what crown position you’re in. Instead, like a good Jedi, you’ll be relying on the force . . . Some horological intuition that tells you that yes, now you can move the hour hand independently to set the local time when your plane lands (this is a true flyer GMT after all).

I have bouts/periods of traveling quite a lot as a writer and often have to schedule zoom calls and events with people across the world. While part of me is still desiring the set it and forget it quality of something like a Grand Seiko quartz GMT that is perhaps more utilitarian (while still beautiful . . . And probably so for more people), I think this Kurono def has earned a potential forever place in my collection as the watch I reach for when I want a little extra mystery and class on the wrist whenever I do need to get on a plane. It plays wonderfully with a suit as well with more casual wear, but bc of the polished surfaces and the dimensions this is def a watch that says “business” but in a way that looks back in time a bit.

Excuse me while I stare at this intriguing dial . . . To admire and slowly deduce what time it is. :p

38mm case with 46mm lug to lug will fit nicely on smaller wrists

5atm

Miyota 9075 (true/flyer GMT) with 42 hr reserve

Retail: $2250 usd (seems to be floating around 3.5k to $4000 usd on Chrono24 and eBay)