1 Year Review with the Grand Seiko SBGN027

It’s been a bit more than a year since I got the watch. So, here is a review of the Grand Seiko SBGN027. I call it the GS Explorer 2 due to the similarity in design with the Rolex Explorer 2 lineup. The GS Explorer 2 is part of Grand Seiko’s Sports collection.  

Here are the specs of the watch: 

Diameter of 39mm 

Lug to Lug of 46mm 

Thickness of 12.3mm 

Lug width of 19mm

It’s a high-accuracy quartz GMT movement

The case, indices and hands are Zaratzu polished.  

What I like about this watch: 

I love the monochrome colour scheme of the watch. It looks like someone in a formal suit and tie. The polishing on the whole watch, compact 39mm diameter, along with the Lug to lug of 46 mm fits right on my wrist. The crown located at 4 o’clock might bum others. But to me, it is a signature Seiko or Grand Seiko design. Just like the Helium valve on the Omega Seamaster Professional. Compared to its previous model SBGN003, the crown is at 4 rather than at 3 with crown guards. The newer model that I have here will feel smaller and more compact on the wrist compared to the older version.  

Having a bold 24 hr numeral is good for legibility. Also having an additional 24 hr numeral in the inner chapter ring makes reading GMT at a glance. An improvement compared to the SBGN003 (older model)

The quartz movement is a pro for me too. Yes, I know that when I wear it, it doesn’t charge up like automatic does. However, with an ever-growing collection for me. It's good to have an accurate, grab-and-go watch that I know is reliable. And I can quickly wind up my automatic watches and sync them up with this GS Explorer.

What I dislike: 

However, it's not all sunshine and rainbows for this watch.   Some of its design choices puzzle me compared to the previous version SBGN003.  

First of all, there are only lume on 12, 3, 6 and 9. While in the previous version, it’s all lumed. I love wearing my watch to bed and lume in general. I don’t understand why Grand Seiko is taking them out in this version. It’s a sports model, simply doesn’t make sense to me.  

Secondly, is the bracelet. The lack of any adjustments toolless or pin adjustment is a downside to this watch. Since, I can’t freely adjust the bracelet, especially during summer. I'm stuck with having it a bit loose, so to accommodate my wrist when it expands due to the summer heat. However, using straps to change it out can remedy this flaw.

Lastly, the most annoying and disappointing aspect of this watch is the colour choice of the GMT hand. Although I had said previously that I love the monochrome scheme design. However, only by wearing this watch, did I find out how easily I will misread the GMT hand as the minute hand especially when the GMT hand is at 12 or 6. In the past year, I had lost count of the number of times that I had misread the time in dim to low-light environments.  

Notable things to improve: 

The case finishing is a step up from the previous model. The previous SBGN003 adopts a more 44GS case design, with polished lugs on the top and a brushed finish on the side of the case. The current model SBGN027 here, has a better overall design.  

If Grand Seiko had added some lume to each indice (GS just decided not to), make a larger GMT hand or don't use grey or white colour and add some easy adjustments to the bracelet and clasp. Then I think the SBGN027 will be a near-perfect if not a perfect watch for anyone.  

I can only describe having a love-hate relationship with this watch. It looks clean, yet the GMT hand makes it easy to misread the time. However, getting the previous version with an orange GMT hand would mean losing its clean look. This SBGN027 is like a monochrome suit. The previous version is like a monochrome suit with a bright sharp tie.

In short, do I recommend this watch? No, I’ll suggest the blue dial version SBGN029 with a legible red GMT hand, if you want a reliable GMT watch. If you want a homage look to the Rolex Explorer 2 16570 and look sporty, then go with the previous G GS versions SBGN003. If you want a clean look, versatile, accurate understated watch. Then this SBGN003 might be the one for you.  

Do I love it? Yes.

Will I sell it just yet? No. Not until there is a better alternative out there. I did wonder if I should swap it for the SBGN029 simply bc of the GMT-coloured hand (and the blue dial, I love blue, yet doesn't have any blue dial in the collection).

1 Year Review with the Grand Seiko SBGN027

4.0
Yes No
4/5
3/5
5/5
5/5
3/5
  • Compact case 39mm x lug to lug 46mm
  • Monochrome colour scheme (makes it versatile)
  • Very Accurate Quartz
  • Amazing polishing (indices reflects like white gold)
  • Big bold 24 hr numbers
  • Additional 24 hr number in the inner bezel (none in the previous SBGN003)
  • White GMT hand will lead to misreading the time
  • A lack of lume on all the indices
  • Lack of any adjustments on the bracelets
  • 4 fixed links = unbalanced bracelets for those with wrist under 15cm
Reply
·

An excellent, informative review. Thank you!

·

Great review. The confusion caused by the gmt hand is a good thing to point out, many reviewer tend to ignore that.

·

Excellent review. Thanks!

·
SlowSlow

Great review. The confusion caused by the gmt hand is a good thing to point out, many reviewer tend to ignore that.

Thank you very much SlowSlow. Indeed, most reviewers ignored this fact. If they had pointed it out before my purchase. I would have chosen the blue dial SBGN029 instead.

·

Really interesting - thanks for this Leo. Proper real world review rather than based just on initial impressions makes such a difference.

·

Nice review, I love my SBGN003

·

Well done review! I'm sorry to hear that you wouldn't recommend the 027. I was considering both the 027 and 029 (and was undecided - both colorways have their merits). However, the AD had the previous design 005 in stock, so that made the decision for me.

I happen to like the 3o'clock date & crown, but I know I'd get used to the 4 o'clock date/crown on the new model (s). As you said, it's very much a (Grand) Seiko design characteristic. I do prefer the new handset though, as it bridges the dress/tool gap a bit better than the dressier style on my 005.

I believe the 027/029 gets a little closer to the tool aesthetic than the 003/005. In fact, one of the things I've realized since owning my 005 (which I love) is that it hasn't quite scratched the tool watch itch in the way that, say, an Explorer II would. It's just a bit too beautiful and shiny for that 🙂.

·

Thanks for reviews! Liked this one very well :)

·

The white GMT hand take is subjective. I own this watch and I never misread the time because of it. Not disputing that it’s an issue for OP, but I don’t think it’s fair to elevate personal preference mismatch to a design flaw. Some watches are not good for me subjectively, say because of size, but that does not mean that watch is poorly designed because it does not fit my wrist perfectly

·
JT1016

Well done review! I'm sorry to hear that you wouldn't recommend the 027. I was considering both the 027 and 029 (and was undecided - both colorways have their merits). However, the AD had the previous design 005 in stock, so that made the decision for me.

I happen to like the 3o'clock date & crown, but I know I'd get used to the 4 o'clock date/crown on the new model (s). As you said, it's very much a (Grand) Seiko design characteristic. I do prefer the new handset though, as it bridges the dress/tool gap a bit better than the dressier style on my 005.

I believe the 027/029 gets a little closer to the tool aesthetic than the 003/005. In fact, one of the things I've realized since owning my 005 (which I love) is that it hasn't quite scratched the tool watch itch in the way that, say, an Explorer II would. It's just a bit too beautiful and shiny for that 🙂.

There are many used 9F86 watches out there from earlier generations, and they are quite diverse, while sticking to the same fundamental design elements. I love 027 for its pure and function-first design, but also because this model is not like anything in the lineup before, where 029 seems a bit iterative with blue dial and red gmt hand.

·

I love wearing my watch to bed

TMI alert!! 🤣

I know Bond did it, but I can’t imagine doing that for oh so many reasons

·
irontsuba

There are many used 9F86 watches out there from earlier generations, and they are quite diverse, while sticking to the same fundamental design elements. I love 027 for its pure and function-first design, but also because this model is not like anything in the lineup before, where 029 seems a bit iterative with blue dial and red gmt hand.

Agreed. The 027 is definitely striking with the monochrome silver & black colorway. That might have been my choice if the 005 hadn't been available. No matter which version one chooses, they're all great watches, and the 9F is an amazing movement. Cheers!

·
JT1016

Well done review! I'm sorry to hear that you wouldn't recommend the 027. I was considering both the 027 and 029 (and was undecided - both colorways have their merits). However, the AD had the previous design 005 in stock, so that made the decision for me.

I happen to like the 3o'clock date & crown, but I know I'd get used to the 4 o'clock date/crown on the new model (s). As you said, it's very much a (Grand) Seiko design characteristic. I do prefer the new handset though, as it bridges the dress/tool gap a bit better than the dressier style on my 005.

I believe the 027/029 gets a little closer to the tool aesthetic than the 003/005. In fact, one of the things I've realized since owning my 005 (which I love) is that it hasn't quite scratched the tool watch itch in the way that, say, an Explorer II would. It's just a bit too beautiful and shiny for that 🙂.

JT1016, thank you. Interesting insight from you too. Sadly, Rolex made the Explorer 2 a lot bigger and Tudor's BB Pro is too vintage in design. The 003/005 & 027/029 are very bling bling, the 027 is kinda like an Explorer 2 version of Rolex's Explorer 1 design. Monochrome but very bling bling.

·
irontsuba

The white GMT hand take is subjective. I own this watch and I never misread the time because of it. Not disputing that it’s an issue for OP, but I don’t think it’s fair to elevate personal preference mismatch to a design flaw. Some watches are not good for me subjectively, say because of size, but that does not mean that watch is poorly designed because it does not fit my wrist perfectly

irontsuba, indeed my review is very subjective. I admit I'm a very nit-picky person. I believe the designers in Grand Seiko might see the 027 as a more "dressy" design compared to its previous versions or even the 029 blue dial. That's why I have a conflicting feeling about my 027. It's a very versatile watch and dam good-looking watch but isn't all-rounded like an Explorer 2 (027 isn't designed to be).

·
LeoTam99

irontsuba, indeed my review is very subjective. I admit I'm a very nit-picky person. I believe the designers in Grand Seiko might see the 027 as a more "dressy" design compared to its previous versions or even the 029 blue dial. That's why I have a conflicting feeling about my 027. It's a very versatile watch and dam good-looking watch but isn't all-rounded like an Explorer 2 (027 isn't designed to be).

I feel you about having a watch that is oh just so close, but…

But then, that just means I need another watch 😂

·
irontsuba

There are many used 9F86 watches out there from earlier generations, and they are quite diverse, while sticking to the same fundamental design elements. I love 027 for its pure and function-first design, but also because this model is not like anything in the lineup before, where 029 seems a bit iterative with blue dial and red gmt hand.

Indeed, its also one of the thing I love about the 027. The Same same but Different design change.

·

I really like this watch and I'm generally warming up to HAQ watches, but I've ultimately come to the conclusion that I'm not a big fan of complications. This watch was top of my list until a couple of months ago, but has now been replaced by the SBGX343 💪.

Great review

·
DeeEx27

I really like this watch and I'm generally warming up to HAQ watches, but I've ultimately come to the conclusion that I'm not a big fan of complications. This watch was top of my list until a couple of months ago, but has now been replaced by the SBGX343 💪.

Great review

Thank you @DeeEx27 for your compliment. I saw the SBGX343 in Japan, I was honestly drooling. The SBGX line is certainly a less focused lineup by GS (only a handful of variations). Enjoy!

I got the SBGN027 due to budget constraints. I was considering the Rolex Exp 2 16570, but the grey market price is just too high for me (and my budget).

I honestly don't regret my choice to get a HAQ watch. The Grab-&-Go feel of HAQ watches is a big upside in my opinion.