DIY Lumed Bezel!

Ok.

I am a terrible person for tinkering with things. I am not what you would call a watch modder, nor a professional in any capacity (my Masters Degree did not involve any tools beyond an iPad/Laptop to be honest — I mean, sure, I used a pen and paper too, but that’s just old habits) let alone near watches. However, I am from a long line of people that have more toolboxes than is necessarily normal (I am at three or four, modestly sized ones — still a baby) and a tendency towards make-do and mend, repair, modification, and creation. My first springbar tool was in fact an old small screwdriver, that my father ground a notch into, but I digress.

Lumed bezels are… kind of cool. That cool Bond film watch from Omega had one. Various brands now put them on the odd model. Another affordable Chinese brand even makes this exact watch with one as the only difference, but I can’t remember its name, and am not looking to buy a new watch for that feature alone. You can buy aftermarket ones in various designs (not, annoyingly, this one, or this would be a quicker experience too) or you can do something a bit daft.

You can lume it yourself.

Here, I have used a Sakura Glow-In-The-Dark Solid Marker. (About thirteen quid on Amazon) I first got one years ago for putting stars on the ceiling for my little one — then did my own room too, because it was fun. Oh, and outlines on the fuse box and light switches.

I may have got carried away.

This is actually the second time I have done this, on this exact watch, as I got bored the first time and didn’t like the slight downsides. (More on that later) Which brings up the first advantage of this over the possibly easier and more controlled version — paint. Unlike that, this is utterly reverseable. (Hand gel and a soft bristle toothbrush, or mineral oil and the same most likely)

First, I literally poke it into the recessed numbers with a ‘pegwood’ — or as we call them in the real non-YouTube watch repair world, which can be oddly Blue Peter at times, a cocktail stick. Because the nature of the pen is like very soft glue stick (Pritt, Bostik, UHU, you know the ones) on a hot day, you basically have to cake it. Do try to not get it too much between the bezel and the case, and do not do this unless you know the bezel insert is ceramic, the crystal sapphire, or that you might wreck the watch. You probably won’t, but if you kill your sub or seamaster, that’s on you ok?

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Like so. Then you leave it for 24 hours, to really let it cure. It’s hard stuff. Do not make the mistake I did of rubbing it down with anything hugely abrasive (ceramic is not a hundred percent scratch proof, trust me, things that will restore a brushed finish on you watch may also scratch ceramic if you… oh, I don’t know, don’t pay attention and rub furiously at it with a scouring pad. Say between the fifty and the lume pip. Off the top of my head.) instead go at it gently, the object is to clean off everything except what you want to keep in the bezel markings. What I did, was soak the watch face down in mineral oil (not spirits, we’re not ghosting an ally bezel here, nor taking the insert out) then go at it with my thumbnail, cocktail stick, and finish with a nice bit of microfibre polishing cloth. Then, against all hope, it looked like this:

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As you can see, there’s a few bits needing more filling. That’s ok, I know from last year that I can just do very localised areas rather than go all in like this again. A UV torch makes it much easier than standing in the sun, then into a cupboard, to work out which bits you missed.

But also as you can see, it works.

Is it waterproof?

Yeah. How else do I get the mineral oil off so the bezel isn’t slicker than a Rolex wearer in a Hugo Boss suit at a speed dating event in Thurrock? (No offence to my Lakeside massive. Nor the Rolex Massive. Hugo Boss fans… yeah. You’re maybe alright too.) Washing up liquid, and a gentle scrub. It’s still gonna be a bit unset at this point, but I can confirm this method survives at least baths and showers. Assuming you don’t go at it with anything bristled when you’re in there, and why would you?

So… the only other downside not obvious from the process, is that it does lighten the inlays ever so slightly in certain lights. It’s very slight, and partially caused by how glowy it is. (I think it’s basically glue with whatever Citizen lume their watches with in) This watch now looks like this:

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Which — is alright. Sure, last time I scrubbed it all out again. But I am fussy and indecisive. I don’t need Snoopy on a watch, I need good ole wish washy Charlie Brown.

It makes up for the rather naff lume pip on my Pagani, and I can embrace the stealthy lifestyle of James Bond, by having my wrist light up like Blackpool as soon as it gets dark. And speaking of Lume pips, it’s rather good for adding or replacing them, and you can even apply a thin ink layer on top and still keep the glow if the pale white tint annoys you too much. Like so:

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Because a dive bezel watch with lumed hands really needs a pip to function properly doesn’t it?

Now, you can do this yourself on whatever you fancy, but again — choose wisely, be prepared to balls it up, and if you do, it’s not my fault. This is information only really. But tinkering is fun, and as Neil would say…

That’s an Art Attack. Try it yourself!

Reply
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This is very cool, something I will not be trying though. I would botch it so bad, the result would be a disaster. Those those inclined, and those that can see the work they are doing without goggles, it could be an interesting project.

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SurferJohn

This is very cool, something I will not be trying though. I would botch it so bad, the result would be a disaster. Those those inclined, and those that can see the work they are doing without goggles, it could be an interesting project.

Thanks! If I do it a third time, I won’t be using polishing pads to clean it. I overestimated ceramic. Or at least Pagani Ceramic. Apart from that everything here is pretty safe, as long as you don’t eat it or go at it with pointy things. Those are the mistakes I made. Well… I don’t think I ate it, but last year when I did it, little bits of dried lume-glue ended up everywhere xD

Though as I say, and as you say, only do it if you feel safe doing so. It’s def a two second job to squidge some into a missing lume pip hole though.

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The result looks fantastic!

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Beanna

The result looks fantastic!

Thanks. I’m gonna do a second ‘coat’ in some areas. It is possible to get it perfect — like I said, this is my second time on this watch. Am keeping an eye on eBay for anything that might benefit from the treatment lol.

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Later on in my watch journey I may get a cheap Beynar for practice. No offense to anyone who likes those 🤣

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SimonB

Later on in my watch journey I may get a cheap Beynar for practice. No offense to anyone who likes those 🤣

I think it’s Benyar, or Berny, or something like that, that does the same watch but lumed bezel. Though… Benyar usually have the water resistance of a Kleenex I believe. Key part is you don’t want something too hard to clean the stuff off of, and decent engraving.

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JaimeMadeira

I think it’s Benyar, or Berny, or something like that, that does the same watch but lumed bezel. Though… Benyar usually have the water resistance of a Kleenex I believe. Key part is you don’t want something too hard to clean the stuff off of, and decent engraving.

I just don't want to ruin a watch I actually like 😁⌚🤣

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SimonB

I just don't want to ruin a watch I actually like 😁⌚🤣

There’s my problem… I like all of them. I just… like to improve them. Tinker. Straps. Bit of a polish here, remove that fresh scratch there. Refinish that twenty year old bracelet, because it will look nice that way.

I’ve had my Seiko about two weeks, and I have polished it several times (there were some micro scratches between the lugs hidden by the bracelet) and had it on four different straps at least. I just can’t leave well enough alone lol.

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casiodean

Brilliant! And well done for keeping it real.

None of that pretentious language that the YouTubers use. Rodico? Nope, it's Blu-Tack! Cocktail sticks are the most useful tools we can ever own, and no need for Cape Cod or PolyWatch when Brasso exists. 😉

Now I have to make another springbar tool by filing down one of those "precision screwdrivers" off the market.

I do still swear by both cape cod and polywatch… though polywatch is excellent for getting that mirror finish on scratched clasps. Bit of wet and dry in various directions (or those nail file thingies we usually used for brushed finishes) then the poly. It’s better on steel that some crystals truth be told, and sadly is better than toothpaste. There’s another dry polishing cloth I have too… think it’s a Henley’s or something like that for stainless steal. Between that, poly, and cape cod, you can get a fairly high polish with a decent amount of precision. I think they may be different grits. Or you can use them to take off high spots on a brushed finish you just did with a flowery nail file.

I thought Rodico looked exactly like Blu Tac (or white tac these days for the softer kind) so thanks for confirming. I’d been using the Blu Tac anyway xD

I find Brasso a bit potent, but my can is probably fifty years old and inherited.

I highly recommend everyone has a bottle of food safe mineral oil handy — bracelets like a bit of a soak, and even the cheap ones will lessen their squeaks and rattles and shine lovely after a bit of that on it. I used to use olive oil, but that smells a bit and goes yellow. Fine on gold I imagine. Or gold tone. I also use that or silicone grease on stiff bezels.

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casiodean

I spray my bracelets in 3-in-oil then rinse them with Fairy liquid and hot water. It gets all the nasty factory bits of grit out of them. Same deal with bezels.

I exhausted my cans of WD last year. Shame. They were also vintage. I do worry about that dehydrating the gaskets mind you — extra shame, it smells great. Not sure I can use it as aftershave mind you. I do use the electronics cleaner one on watches a fair bit. Spruces up a bit of Casio resin nicely, even the gunge that gets in the G-Shock carvings (cos they ain’t engraving at that depth) on the case. Which, it occurs to me, would probably take this lume thing quite nicely. Maybe if I get round to a Casio ask will try that actually.

Edit: oh, and another tip on the tip exchange — victorinox Swiss Army knife screwdrivers are the only thing that will adjust those funny straps with the slide bits like Accurist and Citizen etc use without nearly gouging yourself. Something about their size, the rubber tip where it goes in the corkscrews, and the hardness of the steel.

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It’s interesting enough for me to look into. I like medaling with my watches so might find a custom watch to try this on some how. Thanks for the information brother. Lol art attack 🤭