2023: Collection Makeover [26 Watches In / 30 Watches Out]

🚨Long Post Warning🚨😄

This past year I pretty much overhauled my collection. I didn’t set out to do so, but some shifts in perspective and some honest assessment of what I really enjoy and want in a watch, led to what I think is a more focused assembly of brands, styles, and functionality, that has me as content with my collection as I’ve ever been.

One of those shifts in perspective, was the implementation of a hard cap at 25 watches and a one-in-one-out policy. While this did lead to an unusual amount of turnover, and the letting go of some sentimental but rarely-worn pieces, I think it’s helped me focus in on watches I actually enjoy wearing not just owning.

So without further ado, let’s get started!

GADA/Field Watches:

1. Casio Oceanus T200- light, comfortable, exceptional finishing and superior accuracy. The definition of “grab and go”.

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2. Seiko Alpinist SBDC159- Seiko’s “Explorer” and a do-anything tool watch with a classy alter-ego. The dynamic blue dial has astonishing detail that only really comes alive in the right light, but even in its more subdued state, the proportions and finishing are gorgeous. (And, given my grail watch is a Grand Seiko SLGA007, I especially love the gold seconds hand on this Alpinist)

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3. Lorier Falcon III- The piece that opened my eyes to the magic of smaller watches. Lorenzo and Lauren at Lorier are masters at producing pieces that feel as if a time traveler visited 2023 from 1955 and handed you his brand new watch.

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Aviation Watches / Aviation Chronos

4. Longines Spirit 40mm- Bought to commemorate the birth of my daughter, but notably absent from the overview picture, as it was defective and is still out for repair. Here’s hoping it’s ready for action in 2024.

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5. Citizen Nighthawk- My longest tenured watch. It’s been with me over 10 years, and it’s not going anywhere, anytime soon.

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6. BULOVA Lunar Pilot- Big, bold, unmistakable, and my most worn watch of 2023. This one is an absolute anchor piece in my collection.

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7. Seiko SNA411 Flightmaster- Ah, the Mighty Flighty. I had put off buying one for over a year, but with its discontinuation and subsequent steady increase in cost, I finally pulled the trigger and added this legend to my watchbox. And I couldn’t be happier.

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Racing Chronographs

8. Yema Rallygraf- Very cool and slightly offbeat product of the 60’s “Panda” racing chronograph family tree. I have bought and sold 4 similar watches over the years, but all moved on as they felt too much like Daytona homages. We’ll see if the unique subdial shape and independent heritage of the Yema keeps it around.

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Dive Watches

9. Seiko SRPG21 PADI King Samuari- Tipping the scales at over 200g on bracelet, this chunky diver is all business. But that tank-like case and unflappable (and easy to replace) 4R35 under the hood, mean I don’t have to think about babying it.

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10. MIDO Ocean Star 200c- An under appreciated gem from an under appreciated brand in the Swatch Group. My first “proper” Swiss watch, and one that completely cured me of my lust for an Omega Seamaster. A $1k watch with details and finishing that you’d expect on pieces priced at double that, it’s amazing that MIDO isn’t more highly regarded in the space.

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11. Lorier Neptune III- As with the Falcon, Lorier have the uncanny ability to make a new watch feel like a vintage treasure. This is the pinnacle of vintage-inspired divers for me. And I don’t see anything knocking it off that pedestal anytime soon.

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12. RZE Ascentus GMT- My first purchase of the year, and the only automatic GMT in my collection. Over the summer it proved itself as a fantastic travel and adventure watch, with super lightweight, comfortable bracelet, great legibility, and crazy lume! Couldn’t ask for more.

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Dress Watches

13. MIDO Belluna Heures & Minutes Decentrees- This watch was my effort to add an affordable taste of the stunning, but butt-puckeringly expensive Lange 1, to my collection. It’s an occasional wear, but always one that starts conversations and makes me smile.

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14. Wolfpoint Princeton- The newest addition to my collection, and an impulse buy. Nothing mind-blowing here, but I think it sets itself apart from other “minimalist” pieces, with its enamel dial and super slim case. Plus, the fact it’s a Chicago-based brand has endeared it to me.

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15. BULOVA Sinatra “My Way”- About this time last year, I went down a rectangular, art-deco watch rabbit hole. After a few catch and releases, this BULOVA (along with the Cambridge Rotary up next) is one of the pieces that had just the mojo I was looking for.

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16. Rotary Cambridge- Everything I love about the JLC Reverso, but at a bargain price (okay, almost everything since it doesn’t, well, reverse.) Most my dress pieces don’t get all that much wrist time, but this one has a particular “dual-nature” that lends itself to far more everyday wear than you’d expect. On this vintage brown leather strap, it’s classy but casual, on gator it’s ready for a suit, and on woven nylon with leather accents it’s downright sporty. Not a bad trick.

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Beaters

17. MWC P656- Two words: Titanium and Tritium. I was on the lookout for a military style “tacti-cool” tritium watch, and a closeout deal made this a no-brainer. Feels like this watch is bulletproof… possibly literally.

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CASIO

Going to lump together 18, 19, & 20.- All are Casios, all are pretty standard, but nonetheless great watches.

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Odd & Unusual

21. OBLVLO Star Rotor- I love the uniqueness and engineering magic that MB&F traffics in, but sadly I’m not a multi-millionaire. Fortunately, this little Aliexpress special with the goofy name, gives me a bit of that “spaceship” fun MB&F is known for, and makes the part of my brain that’s still in touch with 8-year old me, smile.

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22. Original Grain Chronograph- Wood watches are… controversial to say the least; and they’re certainly not my preferred style. That being said, this watch is incredibly meaningful for me, as it’s the first Christmas gift my wife gave me back when we were dating. It’s gimmicky, too big, and downright uncomfortable… but I wouldn’t trade it for anything.

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Vintage

23. Rotary Mechanical c. 1970’s (?)- My first (non-heirloom) vintage pickup. Been on the fence about getting into vintage, but decided to take a shot with this cheap vintage Rotary. I have no clue if it’s original, but it runs, looks cool and wears well. I dig it.

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24. Elgin “Lord Elgin”- Last but not least, is this little square watch. (and I do mean little, 21mm!). It’s nothing fancy, made in the tens of thousands by Elgin in the 50’s. But what makes this one so special, is that it’s my great-grandfather’s retirement watch. It was given to him when he left GM’s Fisher Body Division as a Master Craftsman after 30years. To make it even more special, I had no idea it existed until I was gifted it by my dad on Father’s Day. It’s a beautiful heirloom that I intend to preserve and pass down to my own son when he’s old enough.

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That it! 24 watches ready to head into 2024 and collect some more stories. For those of you who stuck around and read this whole thing, thank you!! And even if no one sees it but me, I think this is a tradition that will be a fun way to track my collecting journey over the years.

If you have a 2023 SOTC, link in the comments; I’d love to take a look! 🍻

**On The Outside Looking In**

I don’t really consider this Addiesdive Deep Sea Hunter a part of my collection, as it lives in my wife’s jewelry box, wearing a strap my wife picked out. I do wear it occasionally though.