The GMT for the rest of us (or at least for me)
It's early morning and I'm sitting outside drinking my coffee and trying to fend away dawn's dirty rosy fingers from my Airman No. 1.
The GL0162 Airman No. 1 is a "caller" GMT with a Sellita SW330-1 beating at 28800 bph inside. It's quite faithful in looks to the original Airman but in a more modern 40mm diameter. The long and thin lugs gives the impression of fragility, and it's one that is about right because with its period authentic acrylic crystal, thin case and 1ATM WR rating, this is not the watch that I'll consider taking to the beach or to some adventure in the wilderness.
It's a pilot watch, and a pilot worrying about the WR of his watch might have other and more pressing concerns to attend.
It's also an icon. Some of us may remember that the Airman was the first watch with a GMT function, but few will realize that it's also among the first watches in space.
Its case with its locking crown and 24 hour dial is unmistakable and while I opted for a more conventional 12Hr movement with a GMT hand, the GL0165 "purist", that was also offered when I made my purchase, is even closer to the original.
But I wanted a black dial and I was not sure if I could adapt to a 24Hr movement so that's why I got the GL0162 instead.
It's an unusual and very retro looking watch, which is exactly why I bought it, and now that I'm about to finish my coffee I also think about its obvious alternative and why I didn't get it instead.
I think its because of the idea of wearing an authentic re-creation of something that reminds me of a long gone age. But it's also a question of value. I value the Airman more than I do it's much more expensive alternative because in my opinion the Airman remained true to its origins while the other, well...didn't.
And that's basically it. For me the Airman is the GMT of choice because of an ideal that can really be justified objectively, but isn't this exactly the reason why we buy and collect watches?
I'm a big fan of watches that are interesting because they are either unique, have interesting features, well designed or simply offer a great value for their price.
Pretty cool and interesting watch. I’ve never seen a 24hr watch with a GMT.
I bought one of these years ago and still love it. Doesn’t get as much wrist time as it deserves. Reading the time confuses my wife, many people don’t know what it, has a fantastic retro look but the glass can easily mark as it’s not sapphire and can take a little while to get use to setting all the various time zones - so it’s got some pros and cons 👍
I suspected that the Purist was using the GMT hand for the 24Hr hand, which is why I didn't buy it.
Great post. One regret I have is when I went cheap and could afford a quartz Airman "world timer" instead of saving up and getting what I really wanted in an automatic Airman. However, the aesthetics and feel still make my cheaper Airman a favourite in my collection.
I guess it must be a bit like I imagine wearing a Meistersinger must be - ie reminding yourself how to read it when you first put it on. Ok I guess if wearing for a couple of days or more; but discombobulating if your swap each day.
Good read I have the purist airman 42 in pvd love this thing! It has all pvd movement too its beautiful to look at!
Good read I have the purist airman 42 in pvd love this thing! It has all pvd movement too its beautiful to look at!
‘Trying to fend away Dawn’s dirty rosy fingers’. Love it!