Highlights from Spring Sprang Sprung microbrand watch fair in Singapore

I just found out about this microbrand focused watch fair and was keen on finally seeing some of the brands that are talked about a lot on social media. I'm talking about brands like Formex, who won the WC microbrand tournament (!), Atelier Wen (probably less well known here, but they do hand rose engine turned guilloché dials that are beautiful but for noot too expensive), Havaan Tuvali (I've never heard of them, but quite unique), and a few others.

I brought my wife and son with me, so I had limited time to chat and geek out unfortunately. Still, I made the most of it. There are three watch fairs going on this weekend - Singapore Watch Fair, The Only Watch roving exhibition, and this. Microbrands are hardest to see on person and I'm not a billionaire that can afford to win at Only Watch, so I decided to focus on the SSS event.

First, Atelier Wen. For those that don't know these guys - they're a European duo that studied/grew up in China/HK and grew an appreciation of Chinese watches. They wanted to share with the world the capabilities of Chinese watchmakers.

Their main calling card is the hand rose engine turned guilloché dials. They say that there are less than 30 known guilloché masters globally and only one in all of Asia.

Below is the latest collaboration of their Perception line with Revolution Watches, a striking yellowish gold tone with a grade 5 titanium case/bracelet. I can't speak to the robustness of the Chinese Dandong movement, but it's very thin 9.4mm case is super comfortable. The bracelet is nicely finished too.

Image

The star is the dial of course. Really nice pattern and in an elegantly shaped case.

Image

The regular production of Perception comes in three colors and two of them are here. These are in 904L stainless steel. They're going to upgrade the bracelet (thinner, more tapered, more bevels on links) and hands in the next batch! I'm super tempted, damn you Atelier Wen for being so beautiful and sleek, damn you to heck.

Image

Next is a bit of a random one, but their approach is so unique I want to support the guy. Havaan Tuvali (sounds kiwi...) Is actually a Taiwanese dude who is a watchmaker and he is a one man band right now. Taiwan apparently used to manufacture cases and assemble watches back in the day and there are NOS of cases and movements. He buys all he can, 60 here or 200 there and once the stock is used, all gone. Very project based like many microbrands.

Their vintage designs aren't for everyone, but have a look. This is actually truly vintage bc the cases are vintage as are the movements!

Check out this 36mm case (or something like that) with beautiful stepped, teardrop lugs. I like the two tone gold and steel. The dial is a bit left field - it's a cigar leaf coated to prevent oxidation. I'm not entirely sure of that combo, but I'm digging the case! I'm gonna check if he can do a custom dial.

Image

Very thin as he modified the movement to remove the second hand as the case was originally for a quartz watch. He hand polished or brushed the surfaces of the case.

Image

He also had this much smaller, 33mm (?) dressy, genta-inspired sports watch. It's different in that this is NOS as well, so not a recent genta craze design.

Paper dial is interesting, but is it robust long term?

Image
Image
Image

I also checked out Selten, from HK, who is going beyond their original meteorite dials and exploring Grand feu enamel. Here they show prototypes of the silver blanks being hand engraved (scratched?) Like the recent hodinkee x Anordain collaboration. It's a cool look. They need to refine their case size as it's too thick, but sounds promising.

Image

Finally, I got to see formex in the flesh. I can see why people love them. One of the better quality microbrands out there and very robust feeling. I can see why they command a premium. It wasn't for me as I'm not looking for a "standard" steel sports watch, but I'd definitely consider them if I wanted one.

Great little event and interesting watches out there. I couldn't take pics of the others, but hope you enjoyed a little tour of the SSS event here in Singapore.

Reply
·

Good reportage 👍🏼 thanks

·

Love that second Tuvali with the Cali dial 😍

Excellent reading, thank you 👍🏻👍

·

Thanks for sharing your experience at SSS!

·

Great post on some very interesting microbrands that I would have otherwise never heard! 🤙❤️

·
demian

Good reportage 👍🏼 thanks

Thanks. Paying it forward as there's been great coverage of the wind up fair and many others recently! Wish I took more pics though

·
Inkitatus

Love that second Tuvali with the Cali dial 😍

Excellent reading, thank you 👍🏻👍

Me too. Quite special and the price was reasonable.. thinking hard about that. It's very vintage sized at 34x37mm, but ok for my 6.6" wrists.

https://www.thetimebum.com/2023/07/havaan-tuvali-duodecima.html

Heres an article about it if you wanna read more. He can customize the dial for you - color, dial numeral style, maybe other things.

·

I have my Atelier Wen on order and am patiently waiting for it to arrive in 2024! I got to try the current bracelet and it was comfortable but looking forward to the upgrades!

·
project880

I have my Atelier Wen on order and am patiently waiting for it to arrive in 2024! I got to try the current bracelet and it was comfortable but looking forward to the upgrades!

Which color did you order? I'm really, really tempted to get the grey one. The copper/salmon is nice, the blue is eye catching like a pale blue, and the yellow pops, but I guess I want someone more chill and the grey is the only one with blued hands.

Do you know anyone that has one already?

·
Beanhead

Which color did you order? I'm really, really tempted to get the grey one. The copper/salmon is nice, the blue is eye catching like a pale blue, and the yellow pops, but I guess I want someone more chill and the grey is the only one with blued hands.

Do you know anyone that has one already?

I ordered the grey one since I really liked the blued hands. I know @soysauz currently owns a blue one and @corsokid has a copper one on order. Looks like there may be some more Perception WRUW posts in 2024!

Image
·
project880

I ordered the grey one since I really liked the blued hands. I know @soysauz currently owns a blue one and @corsokid has a copper one on order. Looks like there may be some more Perception WRUW posts in 2024!

Image

Nice, would love to hear @soysauz opinion on your perception!

·

Yep. Will be posting some pics and opinions as soon as the watch arrives. I don’t ask status because I think they are still on target for delivery around Chinese New Year. Looking forward to the changes / updates to the bracelet. I’m also looking forward to the rubber straps . Anyone have an opinion on the rubber straps?

·
Beanhead

Nice, would love to hear @soysauz opinion on your perception!

@Beanhead I have been a fan of the brand since 2021 and I had been following the Perception project since then and saw it to its fruition. I can confidently tell you that you will not be disappointed even with the higher retail price now. The dials are just amazing as you probably saw at SSS. The steel case and bracelets are manufactured to a very high standard as well. I also believe the steel bracelet is going to get some nice upgrades as well! A hand crafted guilloche dial at around 3k USD is still a bargain IMO. 👍🏻

Image
·
soysauz

@Beanhead I have been a fan of the brand since 2021 and I had been following the Perception project since then and saw it to its fruition. I can confidently tell you that you will not be disappointed even with the higher retail price now. The dials are just amazing as you probably saw at SSS. The steel case and bracelets are manufactured to a very high standard as well. I also believe the steel bracelet is going to get some nice upgrades as well! A hand crafted guilloche dial at around 3k USD is still a bargain IMO. 👍🏻

Image

Thanks for the vote of confidence! I'm super tempted, ughhh. Too many watches to love..

·
Beanhead

Thanks for the vote of confidence! I'm super tempted, ughhh. Too many watches to love..

Haha, just gotto prioritize!