Pilot Flieger Watches, Tell Me Everything
I've been watch collecting for about 1.5 years now and through trial and error I think I've narrowed down my tastes. Mostly that I don't enjoy most dive watches and chronographs, and prefer dressier watches.
Past month though, I've delved deeper into Longines with the Spirit Zulu Time and picked up a Hamilton "Cooper". Mostly got the Hamilton because of my love of Interstellar and Day/Date complications but once it arrived I fell hard for Type B pilot watches. I just don't know enough to know where to go next as I begin the long research process for watches I might want.
I think it is a given at some point I'm getting a Laco and/or a Stowa, but I'm always interested in what is out there that doesn't show up immediately on a google/youtube search. What I like most is the simplicity, legibility, and larger size. Haven't been so into a watch type other then the PRX so look forward to the info and advice 🙇♂️
Professional hermit and a humble watch collector with a particular love of shiny things. Part of the council of Josh's.
As a pilot myself, I find them a bit too busy for the cockpit. I think the less markings and indices on a watch, the better.
As a pilot myself, I find them a bit too busy for the cockpit. I think the less markings and indices on a watch, the better.
If I'm your pilot we have bigger concerns then watch aesthetics 🫣
I have a Seiko 5 Flieger which was my first mechanical watch. I fall in and out of love with it but kept it regardless. I think the sterile dials are the best types, with no logo or words, just numbers. German brands are definitely the originals and Stowa gets my vote.
All that said, I think mineral crystal makes these most legible. Orient makes a very affordable flieger if you want something just to try out: https://www.orientwatchusa.com/collections/sport/ra-ac0h03b10a
I think this would be absolutely useless in the cockpit. And have always thought Type As would be more practical. In the only video I've seen of an actual pilot talking about his watch, he was wearing a chronograph, which I can understand has practical applications for measuring elapsed time. IWC have some beautiful options.
I have the Laco Aachen 39. As the name suggests it's 39mm but it takes 18mm straps so it always looks under-strapped, the Miyota 821A is noisy and gritty to wind and the Superluminova C3 is just a little too green: for those reasons I'm moving it on.
Go to the roots and take very legible 50mm B-Uhr Dial B. OG 😂
It depends actually on what are you looking in in watches. B-dials are very similar to each other. Hamilton Aviation watch is unique, Laco, Stowa, Steinhart and a ton of Chinese brands look the same as homages of that B-Uhr made for Luftwaffe. I personally own an Escapement Time one for 150$. Looks and feels great. Yes NH35 there, flat Sapphire crystal, 42mm and fully brushed case. Numbers font could be a better pick, but that is my very own OCD as I am a graphic designer. I hate most of fonts on watchdials anyway
Easy to overlook are the traditional design (Type A and B) pilot watches from Dekla, a tiny brand from Stuttgart Germany. Definitely worth a look, I own a Type A version in bronze. The brand offers well regarded swiss movements, numerous custom options and the overall price is between $550 and $1000 depending on the options chosen.
Apparently some watch collectors aren't familiar with the design imperatives of the Type B flieger developed by the Luftwaffe for bombing missions in WWII. The minute and second markings are prominent in order to time dropping bombs more accurately. Knowing the hour was considerably less critical on a bombing mission.
The design itself is brilliant for its purpose. Thinking of it as assisting the German Air Force to bomb European cities may make it less appealing.