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What’s the last year of production for the classic oyster case?
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LIP has the very affordable Churchill range. I have a T18 and have been very happy with it. Because of the tiny seconds hand I don’t mind that it’s Quartz. They make a larger auto version, as well though.
San Martin just came out with a 1957 Railmaster homage that looks very interesting. I actually prefer the non twisted lugs of these original ones. It’s one of these watches that I like a lot, but not 4K a lot, and I can imagine it’s similar for a lot of people. I also don’t mind homages of less well known watches like this as much.
You are right, the automatic Max Bill have a date, but the hand wound ones have no date and are also slimmer, that’s the one I have and love.
As someone who enjoys smaller watches a lot I would add the Max Bill 34mm to the list, which is the original size. I have both the 38 and 34 model and the smaller one really surprised me with how well it wears. Definitely something to try on first at an AD, but they are relatively popular and easy to find.
If you want to get a feel for those sub 36mm sizes there are a lot of vintage dress watches that are very affordable now bc not a lot of people are looking for those little guys. For example I got a 70€ Raketa that looks very classic and convinced me that 34 is in fact a good size for me personally after wearing it for a while.
Also you could look into a 34mm or 36mm Tudor Prince Date. Incredibly comfortable with their classic Rolex Oyster cases for a more reasonable price.
If quartz isn‘t a dealbreaker for you, the DuFa 38mm Mondphase might be worth a look. 269€ for an original design is hard to beat. Obviously nowhere near the brand clout, but at least it‘s a proper old German watch brand.
Edit: some googling revealed that the name is used as a shell by a Chinese manufacturer now.
