Straps and Deployant Clasps, Oh my!

Since getting my Longines Spirit Zulu Time (green bezel) it has easily become the favorite in my collection.  I purchased it with the bracelet, but because I don't like the bracelet when it's hot outside, and because I simply also wanted the leather strap with deployant clasp option, I set out to get that too.

I tried the Longines website first, but every time I'd try to buy it, I'd only see the "On request" option where I'd be able to submit my email address and notified when it was available.  I tried for months before I started simply looking for other options.  Even now, I can now see the "Add to cart" option, but nothing happens when I click it.

I found a nice suede strap from Condor Straps and paired it with a "roller style" deployant clasp from Strapcode.  I tried also the same clasp with a wool strap from Strapbandits.  Eventually I swapped out the clasp with an "Omega style" one from Artem Straps.  I have nothing but great things to say about their clasps and sailcloth straps.  Next, I swapped out the Artem clasp with one from Formex with "fine adjustment".  As far as Omega-style deployant clasps with on-the-fly micro-adjust, it doesn't get much better than that.

I was finally able to get the Longines leather strap with micro-adjust clasp, but it was VERY expensive and took a long time.  I had to call Swatch Customer Service.  When asked what I was looking for, I gave them item number as it was listed on their site and after waiting months, was sent JUST THE STRAP!  I even told the gentlemen that I purchased the watch with bracelet but wanted the strap too.  So I had to call back and order the clasp.  Both Customer Support people sounded as though I had bothered them.  Regardless of the cost, wait, and CS, I'm glad I got them.

I can say now, that the Longines clasp is on par with the Formex one.  The "buckle" part has roughly the same dimensions though they have different shapes.  The Longines is slightly shorter, but is heavier due to it being made completely from steel.  The Formex is a combination of steel and carbon fiber.  Both have 6 levels of micro-adjust and work identically.

Conclusion:  If you don't mind spending the money and really want the Longines signature on the clasp, go with their strap/clasp combo.  If you want to save the money and still want the on-the-fly micro-adjust, buy a strap somewhere else, and get the Formex clasp.

Reply
·

I wonder why manufacturers don’t offer the strap when you buy the bracelet. Assuming I’ve got the money, I would always get the bracelet but would often like a factory strap too. They could sell it to me when I buy the watch, but I’d probably not get around to buying it later. Especially if I have to call customer service for it. Seems like a missed opportunity on their part. 
 

Anyway, glad it worked out for you. 

·

You would definitely expect better customer service than that, but it seems to be a dying art form these days. Anyway, good to see you stuck it out and got what you wanted in the end. Thanks for the tips 👍👍👍

·
thekris

I wonder why manufacturers don’t offer the strap when you buy the bracelet. Assuming I’ve got the money, I would always get the bracelet but would often like a factory strap too. They could sell it to me when I buy the watch, but I’d probably not get around to buying it later. Especially if I have to call customer service for it. Seems like a missed opportunity on their part. 
 

Anyway, glad it worked out for you. 

Totally agree, not sure why they don’t bundle straps more often or try and up sell with purchase. I love changing my straps and generally prefer them with the manufacturer logo, so I would love to see that.

·

I bought mine on strap and am glad I did. As the watch is already 42mm, I didn’t want the extra overhang of the fixed end links and wanted the strap anyways. I was also able to purchase a couple of NATOs to “change it up“ with the money I saved. 

·

@GogdustOcJiv4 I'd love to hear more about how you'd compare the Strapcode Roller to the Artem omega-style deployant clasp. Like you, I don't particularly care for bracelets and am looking for an omega-style deployant clasp, in my case to pair with an incoming Omega Seamaster GMT (the mid-2000s, blue bezel edition). The Omega OEM clasp seems a bit unnecessarily rich for my blood at $300, however.

I note you preferred the Formex, ultimately, but don't think that will go well with the aesthetics of the Omega. What'd you think of the strapcode Roller and/or the Artem and, if you'd be willing, would you be willing to compare them?

·

In my opinion, the Artem clasp is just nicer. It's thinner, is curved slightly less, and is finished better. I think it holds better too, depending on what strap you're using with it.

I have one of Strapcode roller that if I moved my wrist just the right way the clasp came open. This was due to the way I happened to move my hand and pressure getting applied to the strap in a horizontal direction in relation to my wrist. Although I can purposely do that with my Artem clasp too, given enough forceful pressure, it has never happened on its own with daily wear. I eventually found that the clasp I received had a slight bend in the spring which made it so one of the teeth wasn't properly aligning with its respective groove. I gave it a slight twist which seems to have fixed it.

I believe Artem also makes their clasps (and sailcloth straps) with Omega watches in mind. I don't yet own an Omega, but I think the clasp/loopless sailcloth combination compliments an Omega quite nicely. It is also very comfortable though expensive. At $133 for the strap, $68 for the clasp and an extra $13 if you want quick-release spring bars, you're well into the $200 range, especially when you factor in shipping and tax (where applicable). I personally don't mind this cost since I can easily then take that comfort to other watches. It's still not the $300 you say Omega wants for what I assume is just their clasp.

·

As a follow-up, I took some rough measurements (with both clasps closed) and came up with the following:

1. Height:

a. Strapcode: About 10 mm

b. Artem: About 9.25 mm

2. Length:

a. Strapcode: About 42 mm

b. Artem: About 43.5 mm

3. Width (including buttons):

a. Strapcode: About 25.25 mm

b. Artem: About 28.25 mm

I've also attached some pictures comparing the clasps.

Image
Image
Image
Image
Image

While I was manipulating them, I did notice that the Artem clasp is much easier to close. I can simply push the two halves together and it satisfyingly clicks into place. The Strapcode clasp requires a lot of pressure and to me, feels like doing it too often could be detrimental to its longevity. I always depress the buttons to close both of them though.

·

Hi, I think you answered it but just to be safe. I actually bought a green artem loopless with the omega style clasp for my Zulu Time 39, and its beautiful, the Formex less so, the Longines one is beautiful though and probably a borrowed patent from Formex themselves.

My question is, are the two teeth identical in distance on the Formex and Longines? If so I may get the Longines clasp even though its x2 the price, just looks nicer, and not Formex printed twice + their logo and the push buttons being black..

·

From my experience, the Formex and Longines clasps have the same number of clicks. I only assume they have the same adjustment increments, but I haven’t actually looked at the teeth through a loupe or measured them in any way.

·

Oh Thanks, but I meant are the teeth the same distance from each other on both the Formex and Longines?

Because I know the Formex fits the artem strap and the distance of its holes from each other, so of the teeth on the Longines are the same length apart they will fit over both holes perfectly:)

·

I’ll have to find out.

·

I could have sworn I had a Formex clasp with an 18mm end. If I do, I can’t find it at the moment. This one is 20mm. The Longines is 18mm though. Not sure if this makes a difference in how far apart the posts are in the clasps, but these 2, at least, are not the same. The distance between the posts on the Longines seems be about 6.5mm. For the Formex, it seems to be about 7.5mm.

Image
·

Thank you so much for checking:)! Now I know Longines length so I can contact Formex to ask what their 18mm is. Want to fit it to my Artem Loopless and have seen people done so. If there is indeed a 1mm difference, and the Formex fits the artem, I think I have to go that route, but hopefully the Longines may fit if the 18mm Formex is also 6.5:)

Edit: the teeth on the Formex seems to be bigger, is that the case? Since people say that the only problem to get the Formex to fit is to widen the holes a little, with Longines I may not have to do that.

·

They are definitely larger. I almost mentioned that but wasn’t sure if it was important.

·

Just checked their site, the 18mm is 7,5mm apart. The perfect combo would be longines smaller tooth with Formexs length. Do you know if both the 42mm zulu and 39mm zulu taper down to 18mm? May go to the mall and check if the longines clasp align with it, but they only got 42mm one on display.

Btw: you have been so extremely helpfull, you are such a nice individual, even taking pics:)! It helps so much.

·

I only have the 42mm Zulu Time. It definitely tapers to 18mm where it attaches to the clasp. I’ve only tried on the 39mm version and didn’t think to check the taper on it at the time.

·

The 39 Formex tapers to 18mm also. Nice to know that both the 21mm for zulu 39 and 22mm for zulu 42 both tapers to 18, that means there is no chance that I would get the wrong clasp when ordering and that I can also ask to try out my artem on their Longines clasp.

I found out that the artem loopless is 7mm between holes, so its kind of inbetween, I find that hilarious, nothing ever seems to want to truly fit togheter between brands.

·

Did an experiment. Tried the Artem strap with the Longines clasp. Seems to fit perfectly.

Image
Image
·
GogdustOcJiv4

Did an experiment. Tried the Artem strap with the Longines clasp. Seems to fit perfectly.

Image
Image

Were you able to purchase the Longines micro adjustment deployment buckle separate from the Longines leather strap? Or was it only due to their initial error? I have the 42mm Zulu time on the bracelet and would love to add the OEM Longines leather strap with micro adjustment but the $365 price tag is a little steep (also seems to not always be available as you said).

I was looking here but I don’t think any of these are the micro adjust. https://www.watchbandexpert.com/collections/longines-watchbands

Is there a way to get the micro adjust buckle and an OEM Longines band separate and cheaper?

·

I think you can buy it from Longines, separate from the strap, but I honestly have no idea if it is available anywhere else. I’m not that well versed in all the resources available on the Internet. The whole thing is definitely quite expensive. You could always try eBay or Chrono24 to see if anyone has decided to part with theirs.

·
GogdustOcJiv4

I think you can buy it from Longines, separate from the strap, but I honestly have no idea if it is available anywhere else. I’m not that well versed in all the resources available on the Internet. The whole thing is definitely quite expensive. You could always try eBay or Chrono24 to see if anyone has decided to part with theirs.

Thank you. I’m not having much luck finding the Longines strap with the micro adjust or just the micro adjust buckle. The Longines strap with no micro adjust is $170 and the one with it is $365. Hoping a purchase of just the micro adjust is somehow less than that difference. Then based on your measurements can alternatively use any strap with holes measuring 6.5mm center to center.