My love hate relationship with microbrands
Some eight years back when I started to really get into watches I was like most people and didn't know what a microbrand was. Some time later, after I had learned about what constitutes a good watch, and having joined various forums, I realised a lot more watch could be obtained for the money. I also realised I was less likely to ever meet a person with the same watch, and finally I realised the person in charge of creating the watch was an enthusiast, rather than an impersonal company that was just there to make money for it's shareholders. I now find that about 90% of my 32 watch collection are microbrands. My Seiko Alpinist is now on the watch winder ready to be worn for tomorrow. When the Alpinist was new it would have cost about £700, but when I compare it to some of my microbrands that cost less, I can't help but feel I was ripped off.
So what is there to hate about microbrands. Firstly the residual value. Other than a couple of brands, most of them lose a fortune the minute you have bought them. Put one on eBay and see how many views you get in a 24 hour period compared to a mainstream brand. Of course, this can go in your favour, I know, I have recently picked up some amazing bargains. The other thing that annoys me, and I can't do anything about it, is that I find myself ignoring mainstream brands, knowing they will be overpriced and under specd compared to what I already own. Honestly, sometimes I wish I hadn't discovered microbrands, and other times I'm really grateful I did.
I own approximately 30 watches, ranging from budget through to Rolex. I also have a YouTube watch channel
The easy solution is to stop viewing watches as items with value. Treat every dollar spent on a watch as if it was spent on food, drinks, concert tickets, etc...
Many microbrands often do offer better specs for less money, which is a positive thing in two key ways.
The consumer gets a better product for the dollars they spend.
Mainstream brands are pressured to improve their offerings to keep and attract customers.
The easy solution is to stop viewing watches as items with value. Treat every dollar spent on a watch as if it was spent on food, drinks, concert tickets, etc...
Many microbrands often do offer better specs for less money, which is a positive thing in two key ways.
The consumer gets a better product for the dollars they spend.
Mainstream brands are pressured to improve their offerings to keep and attract customers.
That's pretty much how I do see them, and that's why nearly all my collection are microbrands. The problem is that I find myself totally ignoring mainstream brands because I know they offer poor value for money in comparison
I’d add here that if you’re worried about resale prices on your microbrand watches, you should really research the brand’s prices in the pre-owned market and take that in consideration before your purchase.
Doing so you’ll see that there’s indeed several tiers of popularity among micros too, and some of them do hold their value relatively well given their rarity, as the brand doesn’t manufacture many of them but they’re sought after watches in the community. Examples include: Studio Underd0g, Helm, Lorier, Direnzo…
I’d add here that if you’re worried about resale prices on your microbrand watches, you should really research the brand’s prices in the pre-owned market and take that in consideration before your purchase.
Doing so you’ll see that there’s indeed several tiers of popularity among micros too, and some of them do hold their value relatively well given their rarity, as the brand doesn’t manufacture many of them but they’re sought after watches in the community. Examples include: Studio Underd0g, Helm, Lorier, Direnzo…
Yes, indeed there are a few. That said, at present I'm attempting to sell a nearly new Helm Komodo and have no interest, despite the fact there is meant to be a two year waiting list.
I tend to benefit from the fact most microbrands don't hold their price, as I buy used. Microbrands are always bought by enthusiasts, so one always knows the watch will be in excellent condition when it's received. In the last few months I have landed some crazy bargains. Just the other day I bought a Canopy Wake One for £270 ($320). A microbrand out of Texas that was intended to sell for $1000. It's fantastically well made and well specd, despite a poor lume. Forged carbon bezel insert, Sellita SW200-1 movement, and an incredible bracelet with on the fly clasp. The watch came in a huge piano black box, and was absolutely mint.
I don’t think this phenomenon (ie sharp loss of value and limited eBay views) is limited to microbrands.
I have a lot of German watches, and I have found it difficult to sell those compared to more common Swiss brands that I have owned in the past (I currently have none). If I post a wonderfully crafted watch like the Dekla (as I have done recently), the view count ticks over at maybe one or two a day. Conversely, a Certina or a Hamilton easily gets a lot of views and “watchers”, and will sell within a week.
I think you just have to accept that when you go a little off-piste. 🎿
I think many of us have perpetually conflicting thoughts on our watch collections.
Subjective and objective values constantly superseding the other and whatnot.
We can say that monetary value shouldn't be considered but that's much easier said than done. We can also say to simply "buy what you like", but that turns out never to be as simple as you'd thought it would be.
I've settled on one rule, and so far (because I've also learned that none of my rules have been absolutely tenable) it's been working: If it ain't fun than I'm doing it wrong.
Yes, indeed there are a few. That said, at present I'm attempting to sell a nearly new Helm Komodo and have no interest, despite the fact there is meant to be a two year waiting list.
I tend to benefit from the fact most microbrands don't hold their price, as I buy used. Microbrands are always bought by enthusiasts, so one always knows the watch will be in excellent condition when it's received. In the last few months I have landed some crazy bargains. Just the other day I bought a Canopy Wake One for £270 ($320). A microbrand out of Texas that was intended to sell for $1000. It's fantastically well made and well specd, despite a poor lume. Forged carbon bezel insert, Sellita SW200-1 movement, and an incredible bracelet with on the fly clasp. The watch came in a huge piano black box, and was absolutely mint.
Words of wisdom!
I agree that microbrands offer great value for money and have often better specs than the established brands. But it'd be a mistake to ignore the big brands completely. For me it's like feeling at home to wear a Citizen Promaster or a Hamilton from time to time. Maybe it's just me but I wouldn't want to wear exclusively microbrands all the time.
Regarding resale value that seems to work differently in different markets. I may be wrong but I have the impression that you can buy established brand watches, for example a Seiko diver, for a relatively reasonable price in used condition here in Germany. But if you want a microbrand like a Christopher Ward or a Lorier, it's hard to find any at a reasonable price due to their rarity. Whenever they go on Ebay even in fairly worn condition they are never cheap or reasonably priced. And still they sell quick. So it seems to work sort of opposite in this market. Because microbrands are relatively rare, the second hand sellers don't bother selling for a low price.