HELP finding my next watch

Hi everyone,

I would be very grateful if I could draw on your collective wisdom to find my next "everyday" watch. I have done some research, but so far, it has remained elusive.

Here is what I have in mind:

  • 39mm case diameter, maximum lug-to-lug around 47-48mm.

  • Field or Aviation style. Could consider a Diver.

  • Readable dial, preferably with Arabic numerals.

  • Preference for a date complication. I need to date documents a lot at work but somehow always manage to forget what day it is.

  • Reasonably sturdy. Water resistance does not need to be greater than 100m.

  • Preference for an accurate automatic movement. I know, I know, "if you want accurate time get a Quartz or check your phone," but good engineering and precise watchmaking attract me, and I respect that in a watch manufacturer. Anything within COSC tolerances would suffice (even if not COSC certified).

  • Budget: depends on the watch and value proposition, but below £3000 would be preferred.

To give you an idea, the Tudor Ranger would be a good fit if not for the absence of a date complication. The Sinn 556 also caught my eye, but I have doubts about the movement (even though they are supposed to be uber-regulated).

I already own the Longines Spirit Zulu Time and would like something different; otherwise, the Spirit collection would be a no-brainer.

Thanks in advance for taking the time to help me out. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated!

Reply
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Check out Formex! The essence 39 sounds right up your alley 😁

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Longines Spirit is definately something you should check out. It is marketed as an aviation watch, but has serious field watch vibes with Arabic numerals. Comes in a variety of dial colors.

37 or 40mm case with 47 and 49mm Lug to Lug respectively.

Date at the 6:00

100m WR with screw down crown

COSC certified.

Under 2000 pounds

For another 1000pounds you can get the Longines Spirit Zulu time featuring a travelers GMT movement with jumping hour hand and 24 hour bezel. The new model is 39mm w/ 47 mm L2L. All other aspects are unchanged.

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cornfedksboy

Longines Spirit is definately something you should check out. It is marketed as an aviation watch, but has serious field watch vibes with Arabic numerals. Comes in a variety of dial colors.

37 or 40mm case with 47 and 49mm Lug to Lug respectively.

Date at the 6:00

100m WR with screw down crown

COSC certified.

Under 2000 pounds

For another 1000pounds you can get the Longines Spirit Zulu time featuring a travelers GMT movement with jumping hour hand and 24 hour bezel. The new model is 39mm w/ 47 mm L2L. All other aspects are unchanged.

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Hi Jason. Thank you for your suggestion. I completely forgot to mention I already own the Zulu Time! Otherwise, the Spirit would be the obvious choice.

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The Monta Triumph is another must view microbrand field watch with exceptional finishing that meets all your requirements.

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minMAX

Check out Formex! The essence 39 sounds right up your alley 😁

Hi Quinn. Thank you for your suggestion. I considered the Formex Essence collection. It gives me Omega Aqua Terra vibes which is not necessarily a bad thing. But no numerals 😢

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Used Aqua Terra 👍🏻

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Sinn EZM 3f. Simple 3 hander with date plus a very useful countdown bezel - you time stuff far more than you go diving (probably). And it’s bomb proof!

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cornfedksboy

The Monta Triumph is another must view microbrand field watch with exceptional finishing that meets all your requirements.

Great suggestion, Jason; this was not on my radar. The design and overall specs look great, and the value for money looks attractive. I am just a bit concerned about the movement. I understand it can be either an ETA 2892 or Sellita SW300, but they have recently moved closer to Sellita? I think they quoted +-5s PD, which is quite good. I will definitely shortlist this one.

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Seems like the IWC Mark 20 would be perfect. It’s 40mm diameter but it checks every other box for you. Can buy used around $3k if you look in the right spot.

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Inkitatus

Used Aqua Terra 👍🏻

Thanks, Steve. The Aqua Terra is an amazing watch, but I would prioritise a watch with numerals.

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The Hamilton Khaki titanium in 38mm seems really appropriate to your taste.You just have to go to an horologist and make that H80 regulated in COSC.

The Promaster land could fill the needs except it's a solar quartz (I'm sorry I can't stop speaking about that extraordinary watch)

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texaswatchdude

Seems like the IWC Mark 20 would be perfect. It’s 40mm diameter but it checks every other box for you. Can buy used around $3k if you look in the right spot.

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Great suggestion, thanks. I will add this one to the shortlist.

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texaswatchdude

Seems like the IWC Mark 20 would be perfect. It’s 40mm diameter but it checks every other box for you. Can buy used around $3k if you look in the right spot.

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+1. Might stretch the budget a bit but the size is perfect and the 120 hour power reserve is very nice if you have a rotation. There are discounts to be had if you only want new; I was able I got mine for about $3500 gbp. Add about 1k if you need the bracelet though.

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explorer1

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Guyllheaume

The Hamilton Khaki titanium in 38mm seems really appropriate to your taste.You just have to go to an horologist and make that H80 regulated in COSC.

The Promaster land could fill the needs except it's a solar quartz (I'm sorry I can't stop speaking about that extraordinary watch)

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Thanks for the suggestion. The Khaki Field Auto with date certainly fits the profile. You made a good point that I can always have the watch regulated aftermarket.

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bruno.silva

Thanks, Kellan. I did consider the Oris Big Crown but got spooked by some reports about problems with their proprietary calibre 400… Do you own one? Have you had any issues?

I have an oris pro pilot and no issues so far though I haven't had it too long. It's currently running great though.

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bruno.silva

Thanks, Yan. The new Multifort is also not my cup of tea (not really into square dials I’m afraid). I do like the Oris but I have concerns about their proprietary movement…

I'm pretty sure some of them are still selita sw200 based

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That 3,000 budget would generally put it out of top tier or swiss made territory but there are still good choices left from tudor, nomos, longines, tag, seiko and the rest of the watchmakers or microbrands using èbauche or off the shelf movements.. the possibilities are almost endless

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bruno.silva

Thanks, Yan. The new Multifort is also not my cup of tea (not really into square dials I’m afraid). I do like the Oris but I have concerns about their proprietary movement…

I get it... I was thinking about their caliber 473, which seems a bit more reliable from what I found online, and it did feel very nice when I handled the watch in person, not to mention that its caseback is very appealing... In any case I look forward to seeing your next acquisition!

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cornfedksboy

Longines Spirit is definately something you should check out. It is marketed as an aviation watch, but has serious field watch vibes with Arabic numerals. Comes in a variety of dial colors.

37 or 40mm case with 47 and 49mm Lug to Lug respectively.

Date at the 6:00

100m WR with screw down crown

COSC certified.

Under 2000 pounds

For another 1000pounds you can get the Longines Spirit Zulu time featuring a travelers GMT movement with jumping hour hand and 24 hour bezel. The new model is 39mm w/ 47 mm L2L. All other aspects are unchanged.

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I’d suggest a Black Bay 58 as it would be comparable to this. Usually sells for ~£3000 new too, except it has no numerals. Maybe a Longines Hydroconquest?

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Check out the Nomos 750 Polar. I know it has no date but I find it great. Also, I’d recommend you to reconsider the Tudor Ranger, I just love it, so robust, and the bracelet IMO doesn’t get much better, even at higher price points, that was my obvious choice (and the Spirit pf course)… good luck and enjoy this moment man! Cheers

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+1 for iwc! Here's mark xx little brother pilot 36mm 👌

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Fiatjeepdriver

I have an oris pro pilot and no issues so far though I haven't had it too long. It's currently running great though.

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The ProPilot is powered by the SW 220-based Oris 751, right? Those are good movements, from what I've gathered. My worries are about their in-house calibre 400 series, which you can find, for example, in the Big Crown Pointer Date. Not as much about their accuracy or precision but some glitches, such as the minute hand jumping around when you push in the crown, etc. I suppose it's still a new, untested movement, and I hope these hiccups will be ironed out in the future.

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watchyourwrist

I get it... I was thinking about their caliber 473, which seems a bit more reliable from what I found online, and it did feel very nice when I handled the watch in person, not to mention that its caseback is very appealing... In any case I look forward to seeing your next acquisition!

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Oh, I see. It does look like a nice watch, but the 473 is a manual, right? Not sure if I am ready for the hand-winding lifestyle xD

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Yohanne

That 3,000 budget would generally put it out of top tier or swiss made territory but there are still good choices left from tudor, nomos, longines, tag, seiko and the rest of the watchmakers or microbrands using èbauche or off the shelf movements.. the possibilities are almost endless

Thanks, Joh. I can expand the budget if the value proposition is interesting.

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SoyWatch

Check out the Nomos 750 Polar. I know it has no date but I find it great. Also, I’d recommend you to reconsider the Tudor Ranger, I just love it, so robust, and the bracelet IMO doesn’t get much better, even at higher price points, that was my obvious choice (and the Spirit pf course)… good luck and enjoy this moment man! Cheers

Thanks, Jorge! I love the Nomos design language and its proprietary movements. You look at that display case, and you can easily imagine an extra digit on the price tag. But I found that the Nomos pieces I really love (with date and automatic movement) feel too big on my wrist :(

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bruno.silva

Oh, I see. It does look like a nice watch, but the 473 is a manual, right? Not sure if I am ready for the hand-winding lifestyle xD

Manual indeed! The 120 hours of power reserve kind of make up for it in the sense that you can leave it be without winding it for five days and still pick it up on the go, but at one point you'll have to use that crown 😅

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PushaTsInfrared

I’d suggest a Black Bay 58 as it would be comparable to this. Usually sells for ~£3000 new too, except it has no numerals. Maybe a Longines Hydroconquest?

The black bay 58 doesn’t have Arabic numerals or a date, which was the core ask. Great watch, but doesn’t meet the OPs requirements.

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cornfedksboy

The black bay 58 doesn’t have Arabic numerals or a date, which was the core ask. Great watch, but doesn’t meet the OPs requirements.

Hence why I then suggested the Hydroconquest

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The Christopher Ward C65 Sandhurst has numerals and is COSC but unfortunately no date.

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