The Seiko infant GS or how I learned to love the SNKL23J1*

One of the holy grails for affordable, meticulously designed, and do almost anything watch

There are so many adjectives that have been used to describe this watch as well as a ton of articles and videos that go into detail why this watch is so heralded. But now that I have finally gotten to see and handle this watch in person, I wanted to provide my opinion on it.

The main word that gets repeated often about this watch is gateway or starter, and given the typical price that this watch can be purchased for, it’s not surprising why. However, I would argue that even if you strive to have a one watch collection or an abundant collection, the word that should be used for this watch is necessary.

Full transparency, I’m drawn to watches that look vintage, especially those that take design cues from the 60’s. So, if you don’t feel the same, this watch may not be for you.

I realize that describing this watch as necessary is a full blown and brazen statement, but let me explain why I think that it is.

Let’s start with its “affordability”, I put that word in quotes because being affordable is a relative term. At the time of this writing, you can purchase this watch for ~109 dollars, which to many is not an inconsequential amount. But let’s be honest, if you’re into watch collecting or have an appreciation for the mechanics of an automatic watch, 109 isn’t so bad. (Yes, yes, I know, you can purchase an automatic watch for less, but if you focus only on the big boys, the Swiss and the Japanese, 109 is a relative bargain). How can this watch be so relatively cheap? The two answers that have been documented thoroughly are it's basic and retired 7S26 movement (no hacking, no hand winding) and the bracelet, oh the bracelet. I’ve read and seen the critiques of the bracelet, but you don’t get the full appreciation or lack thereof until you’ve handled it in person. Let’s just say, it’s a red flag if you’re given advice (https://youtu.be/foNyrA7d-xM?si=esLJR7K3P89QwE7N) to use tools that you don’t mind breaking in order to remove the folded metal links for the bracelet. If you do decide to buy this watch, my advice is to purchase a replacement strap or bracelet. Seiko should just sell the watch without the bracelet 😜 .

If you didn’t know the price of the watch or that the “5” line was for Seiko’s entry level offerings, I would be willing to bet that you would think this watch was 2 to 3 times the price that you could actually purchase it for. This leads me to its design. I’ve seen articles that have amazing photos of the watch but I don’t think you get the full appreciation until you’ve seen it in person. The watch is clean, has a textured dial, has applied indices, and hits the sweet spot for the wrist at 38mm in diameter. Seiko is famous for their textured dials and for them to provide it in this entry level watch is mind blowing to me. The pin stripes on the dial elevate this watch from basic to what in my opinion looks like stealth wealth or quiet luxury. Obviously, this watch isn’t made from the same materials as a GS or a Rolex but the look of this watch is so timeless. If you took care of this watch and handed it down to another generation, I think people would be shocked at what the actual price was. The recessed crown also makes this watch very unique; I don’t think I’ve ever seen another watch that had a hidden crown. By tucking the crown away, the silhouette of the watch stands out even more and draws the wearer’s attention to the meticulous dial. Warning though, the hidden crown also has its flaws. The crown is small and when you pull it out, there is very little space to grip and turn the crown to set the time, day, and date. My fingers ached a little at how slow it was to set the watch. But for me, the pros outweigh the cons.   

And just like many Seikos, one of the major pros is the versatility of this watch. If you’ve heeded my advice and plan to swap out the bracelet, then you’ve opened the world to how versatile this watch can be. You want an elegant dress watch? Get a nice black crocodile patterned leather strap. You want something casual? Get a nice brown leather strap or a striped nato. You’re the type of person that digs metal bracelets? This watch will look killer on a nice after-market jubilee. I used to think a black dial could only be paired with a black leather strap or a metal bracelet, the style gurus out there have corrected me. This watch looks amazing on a reddish-brown leather strap. And depending on the angle, the dial of the watch looks piano black or dark grey when the pin stripes take effect.   

So why do I think this watch is necessary? First, this watch could literally be your one and only watch based on price and how versatile it is. But most importantly, this watch can enhance the collection you already have based on how unique this watch is. I know people love the SKX and how it can be your alternative to that DJ that is out of reach for now. But, what about the SNKL that looks original and doesn’t have to be an alternative to anything?

*Shout out to my fellow film buffs out there