Perfect three watch collection

Last week while visiting Naples and Exquisite Timepieces, I stumbled on the third leg of what I consider a perfect three watch collection.

Everyone has a different definition of how to look it, so I’ll briefly run through my view.

First, it has to be three watches that are not in any danger of leaving your collection any time soon.

Second, between the three of them they have to cover the gamut from go anywhere do anything to dress.

Third, between the three of them, most of the traditional watch complications need to be represented, date, chrono etc.

Fourth, each watch should be interesting in construction. Varying metals, dial types and colors, yet should all hold a common theme so you can draw a line from one to the other.

Fifth, this is MY perfect collection. No one else has to like it or agree with it. But I can tell you I LOVE IT. So without further ado:

1) Breguet Type 22 Flyback Chronograph with dual time zone and a 10 Hertz beat rate. This is the one I picked up last week. I was aware of this watch, however I could never really find it in a condition I was comfortable with. I also was concerned with warranty, not that Breguet cannot make a reliable watch, but it has so many complications, that it is going to be worn fairly often. The boxes it checks: chronograph, GMT, swimmable (100m water resistance), and truly a TOOL watch. In stainless on a leather band that beautifully integrates with the watch, it has a stainless steel bracelet option as well (and is on order). The dial has awesome depth to it. Now, this is a HUGE watch. HUGE. It is 44mm in diameter and damn near 18mm thick! However, I have an above average wrist and it fits solidly and comfortably. This watch is a beast in size and spec. I love it.

2) Breguet Marine. This is as close to a diver as Breguet gets, and it’s not really close. However its is really great, all in grade 5 titanium as a daily driver. The dial is a beautiful sunburst, the date is interesting and in my opinion well done despite its funky asymmetry. Again, 100m waters resistance, I’ll take this over a datejust any day. 40mm and only 12mm thick, it disappears on the wrist. When your at the pool, and the light hits the sunburst, this watch dazzles.

3) Breguet La Tradition Retrograde Date. This is the dress watch. Big in terms of diameter, 40mm. This doesn’t bother me as this watch is essentially a pocket watch on the wrist. White gold and ridiculously finished, the star of the show is the retrograde date. The lever like hand just is a firework of depth to this already intricate dial. Pure engineering, pure hand made, pure class, it’s a joy to wear formally, even though secretly I’ll wear it in jeans and a Tshirt. Absolutely my favorite dress watch ever. No offense, keep your Calatrava.

Well that’s that. The common thread is obviously Breguet. An under appreciated brand. Criminally so if you ask me. If I pack all three in why watch roll, I don’t think there is a situation where I will find wanting another or different watch.

Cheers!