Why Case Size Doesn’t Matter

Like me, you probably browse for watches online, pouring over movement specifications, case sizes, and strap options. Maybe not. Maybe you’re old school and only look at watches in person at Authorized Dealers or brand boutiques. Either way, I’m sure you consider case size as one of the main deciding factors when shopping for watches, or even just beginning the research process for your next watch.

Case Size: Does It Really Matter?

So perhaps the title of this article was a little deceptive. Of course case size matters – at least to some extent. But not as much as you’d when reading comments on watch reviews and watch forums. You’ll often see comments like this: “Oh it’s a great looking watch, if only they shrank the case size down to 38mm” or “Too bad it’s not at least 42mm”. I think a lot of people just see that a case size is say, 44mm, and automatically count that watch out. It’s just too big. I think this is a mistake. For instance, take the Seiko Samurai (reference SRPB55). It’s 44mm case wears much smaller than you’d think.

The watch next to the blacked-out Seiko Samurai is the Baume & Mercier Capeland Chronograph, which measures 42mm. Not only does the white dial make the Capeland Chrono look larger, the lack of a bezel makes the watch appear much larger as well. On wrist, it feels more like a 44mm to 45mm watch, much more so than the Seiko Samurai. The image to the right displays the Baume & Mericer next to the 42mm Seiko SKX009, which despite sharing a 42mm case on paper, looks smaller as well, especially on wrist.

Another Thing To Consider Is Lug-To-Lug Length.

Lug-to-lug length is arguably more important than case size when determining how a watch will wear, especially if you’re shopping online for a watch that you may be purchasing “sight unseen”. The B&M Capeland’s lug-to-lug length is pushing well past 50mm. That takes up a large amount of wrist presence. The Seiko Samurai and SKX009 have lug-to-lug lengths of only 48mm and 46mm, respectively. Combining these smaller lug-to-lug lengths with the fact that both have rotating bezels and darker dials, the Seiko divers wear much more compact than it would seem on paper. This also explains why some watches, say a Nomos Orion with white dial and long lugs, wears larger than the 38mm case size suggests as well.

Taking dial size and lug-to-lug length should be taken into consideration just as much, if not more, than just case size. A 40mm watch may actually wear just as large (or larger) than a 42mm watch. Another example, the 40 mm Oris Sixty-Five, next to a 42mm Omega Speedmaster:

The Oris actually wear similar to the larger Speedy Pro, and sometimes when I see myself wearing it in the mirror, it can even look slightly larger on wrist than the Speedmaster, due to the slim bezel and case band, which brings us to our next and final point.

Case Thickness, How Large A Watch Will “Feel”

Two 42mm watches can wear incredibly different on wrist as well. Here I’ll compare the Speedy Pro to the B&M Capeland.

Notice how thick the Valjoux7753-powered Capeland is compared to the relatively thin (for a chronograph) Speedmaster? The thinner brushed section of the Speedmaster’s case band also makes it appear thinner on wrist as well. The bracelets also come into play here, the Baume & Mercier overall is a heavy, modern automatic chronograph with lots of wrist presence, the Speedmaster feels more refined and comfortable. Kind of like comparing a modern sports car with its 1960’s vintage counterpart. Both are cool, but for different reasons and give off different vibes.

Conclusion

Before automatically dismissing a watch as too small, or too large, due to quoted case size, consider other factors that might actually play a larger part in how the watch will look and feel when you’re wearing it. Lug-to-lug length, dial size, and even dial color may impact how the watch actually looks on wrist in person just as much (if not even more) than just case size. How the watch will “feel” on wrist will also largely be determined by not just lug-to-lug length, but case thickness as well. Two 40mm dive watches may wear significantly different on wrist (think modern Rolex Submariner versus vintage 1960’s Sub, or Oris 65).