The new Tudor Pelagos FXD ref. M25717n-0001 released in late September to what was a lot of initial hype from Tudor themselves but was quickly forgotten by the rest of the watch world. It’s not hard to see why. It’s the same as the previous ref. m25707b/23-0001 with a color and bezel swap. But for me, it was love at first sight. The previous Pelagos FXD MN was a looker and I also liked it, but I just wasn’t a fan of the blue color. This is new Pelagos FXD that some have nicknamed the “USN” due to its tentative connection with the US Navy. Most notably however since its release, the WoE article and Instagram posts about its origins have vanished. I have even checked the WayBack Machine and I still can’t seem to find an archived version of it. It’s almost like the person behind WoE is a former CIA case officer or something and knows how to cover their tracks. If anyone has an archived link or screenshots of it, hit me up.
Now onto the watch itself.
This watch checks all the boxes I was looking for in a military themed/inspired watch. Fixed lug bars? Check. Big luminous markers? Check. A fully graduated bezel? Check.
It nails every single point at least to me. While it is marketed as a Tudor Submariner inspired by the previous references provided to the USN, it has so far really reminded me of a MilSub more than anything else. From its fully graduated bezel to its single red line of text highlighting the model line similar to that of the reference 1680 Submariner of the past and its use of fixed lug bars, it really feels like Tudor mashed up the best bits of the Tudor and Rolex subs into one complete package. That red font also helps to somewhat hide the 4 lines of text at the bottom of the dial; something I think many of us agree is just too much.
It has a whatever diameter case size with a who cares lug to lug. Look, a review should be more than spouting off whatever the dimensions are. Anyone with an internet connection can do that. What I am after are the intangible things that come with owning a watch and in this case, this watch is an unapologetically simple, rugged, and simple tool watch. As a simple three hander, it does one thing and one thing alone; tell the time. It does not have anything about it outwardly that screams luxury. No polished bevels, no black lacquer dial, no precious metal hands or indices. This watch is one thing: a watch. I love that about it. One of the best parts of this watch is that it is a strap monster. From black NATOs to the included olive with red line strap, it works with anything and everything. I bet it would still look good on a burgundy leather strap or a bright pink NATO.
I might still be in the honeymoon phase of owning this watch, but I cannot take it off my wrist. It has been on my wrist more days than not and it’s for all of the reasons above that it stays on my wrist. I don’t think I will ever sell it.
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I have the email newsletter from when that article came out. But it only has the first few paras. Then the link leads to dead page. I love that he's able to erase it's existence from the internet. Maybe he isn't really a dude who works at Subway and is actually the real deal.
Great review - love the watch and WoE strap. The only link I found, which I don't think is the one you were referring to is: https://www.watchesofespionage.com/blogs/woe-dispatch/tudors-of-espionage, but it's still an interesting read.
Would be seriously tempted if only it was in stainless steel, I just can't get on with titanium 😔
Great review - love the watch and WoE strap. The only link I found, which I don't think is the one you were referring to is: https://www.watchesofespionage.com/blogs/woe-dispatch/tudors-of-espionage, but it's still an interesting read.
Yeah, I’ve read that one but this isn’t quite the one I was thinking of. The WoE article I was referencing of was specifically talking about this watch and it’s origins as an allleged unit buy from DEVGRU aka SEAL team six.
Yup sounds like you’re in the honeymoon phase 😂
I love my MN FXD and I’ve had it for about 6 months. Totally agree with everything you said though, and I think I’m out of my honeymoon phase now!
And a strap monster it is… I think I’ve spent more on straps for the FXD than all of the other watches I’ve had!
Love my FXD, hate the strap. Replaced with Erika's 😁
This is definitely one of the reviews of all time.
Love your FXD. I have the full fat pelagos with the black dial hence I'm after the MN FXD. Hoping yo get one at some point this year.
The FXD is the watch Bond should be wearing today.