Gold cap vs PVD vs plating?
I'm gifting a watch, and think I've settled on getting a Longines described as having a "gold cap" bezel and links. From what I could find, capping is thicker and more durable than gold PVD, and plating is the least durable, but the references I found weren't quite as detailed and definitive as I would've liked. So: Does anyone have knowledge or experience with how durable gold cap is vs gold PVD and/or gold plating? Many thanks for any info!
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Eric
Fell down the watch rabbit hole just recently - before, almost never thought about them, now can't go a day without reading or viewing something about watches.
Philadelphia, PA, USA
Member since
Last active: 3 hrs ago
6.50” / 16.51 cm
Gold capped! It can even be polished in its life 3x max probably. You can polish PVD with a favorable outcome
Gold capped! It can even be polished in its life 3x max probably. You can polish PVD with a favorable outcome
Even if it’s scratched the odds that it will be scrapped to its base medal is very slim
That's a sharp looking 🎁!
It's all about the material used, the thickness of the layer and how it's been applied.
PVD coating is the most modern method and way more durable than gold plating of old. It isn't gold at all, it's a coating of titanium nitride that creates a yellow metallic finish that is much tougher than gold. But it looks very different from actual gold.
Gold cap, gold filled and gold plated are basically just different thicknesses of gold, sometimes applied using different techniques.
The thicker the gold layer, the more durable it is. Plating is typically 10-20 microns. Gold cap is typically at least 200 microns so way more gold layer to damage, scratch and rub before the stainless steel will show through.
Another option is a solid gold bezel which will be so thick that you'll never need to worry about it. Tissot do a few watches like that including a PRX model.
Yet another option is to look used/vintage - gold, especially yellow gold, is not in fashion at the moment which means there are bargains to be had. Especially because watch brands charge way more for gold of any sort than the actual value of the gold itself. That leads to very steep depreciation on the used market.
Even if it’s scratched the odds that it will be scrapped to its base medal is very slim
That was my guess but wasn't sure from what I saw. Thanks!
That's a sharp looking 🎁!
Thanks - hope it's as nice on the wrist, fingers crossed!
It's all about the material used, the thickness of the layer and how it's been applied.
PVD coating is the most modern method and way more durable than gold plating of old. It isn't gold at all, it's a coating of titanium nitride that creates a yellow metallic finish that is much tougher than gold. But it looks very different from actual gold.
Gold cap, gold filled and gold plated are basically just different thicknesses of gold, sometimes applied using different techniques.
The thicker the gold layer, the more durable it is. Plating is typically 10-20 microns. Gold cap is typically at least 200 microns so way more gold layer to damage, scratch and rub before the stainless steel will show through.
Another option is a solid gold bezel which will be so thick that you'll never need to worry about it. Tissot do a few watches like that including a PRX model.
Yet another option is to look used/vintage - gold, especially yellow gold, is not in fashion at the moment which means there are bargains to be had. Especially because watch brands charge way more for gold of any sort than the actual value of the gold itself. That leads to very steep depreciation on the used market.
Thanks so much - really great detail! I think this gives me a bit more peace of mind that what I'm getting will last without too much wear. And I'd rather have real gold, even if only capped. Vintage probably wouldn't have been appropriate for this particular gift but may keep that in mind for the future. Thanks again so much!