Why did Breitling snag Universal, and why now? Buckle up, watch fans, because here's my take!

Firstly, Breitling's on fire under Kern's watch. They raked in almost a billion bucks in 2022, putting them in the luxury watch top 10 (that's a 40% jump since 2017!). Their stuff is flying off the shelves, competing with Omega and Panerai in the sweet spot between $5,000 and $15,000. But Kern's got bigger dreams. After launching that fancy Tourbillon Chronograph, whispers spread that Breitling should stick to where they're winning. Jumping into the $15,000+ ultra-luxury zone seemed risky. Here's the thing: to crack that market, you need a different name. Building a new luxury brand is a gamble, and watch snobs wouldn't shell out for some shiny newcomer. Enter Universal – a familiar face steeped in history.

Secondly, Breitling's all about chronographs. They practically shaped the modern two-pusher design, and were among the first to master the automatic chronograph back in 1969 (Project 99, top secret!). Suddenly dropping a $71,000 Breitling Chronograph Tourbillon showed they were ready to push their chronograph pedigree even further. Guess what? Universal's legendary too, especially for their Multi-Complication Chronographs like the Compax. These aren't just any wristwatches, they're presidential-level pieces with a price tag that used to sit above Omega, but below Patek. Think about it: Breitling could slap a tourbillon or a perpetual calendar on a tricked-out Universal with a micro-rotor movement, price it sky-high, and watch it fly. Meanwhile, their bread-and-butter $5,000-$15,000 range stays untouched. Boom, two distinct markets without messing with their core business. If this plays out, expect them to snap up another brand down the line for a luxury three-legged stool.

Now, will Universal rise again? Time will tell. One thing's for sure: Breitling won't be using generic ETA movements like Stelux did – that'd be a disaster. Every tick and tock will be custom-designed. The real mystery is their product roadmap. Sure, chronographs are the plan, but Universal's got other hidden gems: the cool Cabriolet flip-face watches, the pilot-chic Polerouters with micro-rotor movements, and the ultra-thin Shadow line. Those micro-rotors will definitely make a comeback, that's a given. Giants like Concepto and La Joux Perret are more than happy to help. But will they stick to classic designs or blow them up to modern proportions? The watch world waits with bated breath.

Phew, that was a doozy! Remember, this is just one watch nerd's opinion. But one thing's certain: Breitling's gamble with Universal is shaking things up.

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Learned so much in this well written op-ed. Thanks for sharing!

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I was hoping they’d keep the price down on this relaunch. Hadn’t thought it would go the other way.

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ChippewaCraig

I was hoping they’d keep the price down on this relaunch. Hadn’t thought it would go the other way.

I just hope the breitling chronomat micro-rotor will be introduce but price remain the same 🤣🤣🤣

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I stopped by my friendly multi brand ad whose family have been retailers for Breitling since emigrating from Italy to re establish the family business here in Toronto at 2 successful locations.

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to glean some insights if any that he might have about the sale. He actually believed that Breitling would produce UG at a level below or at best level with B. Of course it is all just conjecture at this point in the story

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TOwguy

to glean some insights if any that he might have about the sale. He actually believed that Breitling would produce UG at a level below or at best level with B. Of course it is all just conjecture at this point in the story

Yeah anything can be happened, each fan of Breitling or UG will have their own expectations of this acquisition, but time will tell ✊🏿

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Chinshandcraft

Yeah anything can be happened, each fan of Breitling or UG will have their own expectations of this acquisition, but time will tell ✊🏿

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