A play with 3, 4, no - 5 actors!

The story told about the original production run of the Type XX chronograph that was ordered for the French air force involves 3 main actors. The first was the French government who published specifications that were more in line of being general broad guidelines for an aviator flyback chronograph.

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The second actor was Breguet who was tasked with supplying these chronographs and who also decided that they should get some help from the company that was known for their chronographs and with whom they had a business relationship that dated from way before WW2.

That third actor was Mathey-Tissot who were the one who actually manufactured the first batch of Type XX chronographs for Breguet.

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Breguet is still selling new chronographs under the Type XX and XXI designations but they departed from the small and utilitarian original design and being Breguet's, they are not sold for the kind of money that a cash strapped post war government can afford to spend.

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And here we meet the last actors, Asia Mechanical Watches Group (AMWG) approached Mathey-Tissot to re-create the original Type XX for a limited run and Hemel took over from AMWG to keep the partnership with Mathey-Tissot and ensure that this model will continue to be available to enthusiasts.

Mine is from the original run with AMWG and it wears very well on my 16.5cm wrist, courtesy of its period correct 38.5cm diameter. It's based on a SW510 manual wind instead of a flyback movement, but this is a compromise I'm willing to live with if it means that I can wear a re-creation of an icon that was made by a brand that has 100% the rights to re-create it.

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Reply
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Nice - that watch is ready to go to work!

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Interesting enough there's many debates who did the type 20 first Hanhart or Breguet (obviously like Smiths vs Rolex on the Mount Everest excursion Rolex got the Cred.) Breguet got most credit. After WW2 Hanhart had to pay reparations by building watches for the French army and provide movements. Mathey-Tissot was one of the brand to also share the heritage.

https://thespringbar.com/blogs/guides/breguet-type-20-generation-1-military-issue/

Regardless I fell in love with the type 20 and until these day there's many watches who borrow the aviation style.

My watch:

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Another watch that kinda stole the vintage look:

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Also Longines borrow many type xx design.

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Still thinking of buying a M. Tissot but I think it would a bit too much of an addiction.

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JJMM1983

Interesting enough there's many debates who did the type 20 first Hanhart or Breguet (obviously like Smiths vs Rolex on the Mount Everest excursion Rolex got the Cred.) Breguet got most credit. After WW2 Hanhart had to pay reparations by building watches for the French army and provide movements. Mathey-Tissot was one of the brand to also share the heritage.

https://thespringbar.com/blogs/guides/breguet-type-20-generation-1-military-issue/

Regardless I fell in love with the type 20 and until these day there's many watches who borrow the aviation style.

My watch:

Image

Another watch that kinda stole the vintage look:

Image

Also Longines borrow many type xx design.

Image

Still thinking of buying a M. Tissot but I think it would a bit too much of an addiction.

At some point I did consider buying an Anhart TachyTele. I loved the red button and the intricate dial, even the 40mm diameter was fine.

But when I saw that it was 15mm thick my enthusiasm for it deflated faster than a Chinese tire on a Z truck in Ukraine.

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Yes the Hanhart are thick. I think the case is thick to get the 100m water resistance.

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Great bit of history too ! Thanks for sharing your knowledge

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Having the same Mathey-Tissot Type XX, Omega Dynamic III Chrono and 4 Hanharts (2 1938 1939 & 2 417ES) all of them have historic significance. The MT original Type XX were made for Breguet for The French Air Force in 1950s under contract. The Omega was only made for 3 years 1997 to 1999 and the Hanharts 1954 417ES with flybacks - only 500 originals made with Steve McQueen owning one. The 1938 Pioneer MK I is an automatic of the original and the 1939 is a complete rendition of the original with a Modern Valjoux 7753 manual movement. There needs to be more watches like these using modern components