Homage cum laude - Seestern GMT review

So, let's deal with the elephant in the room immediately: this is an Ali Express special and quite unashamedly a copy of the 1655 Explorer II, minus the cyclops and the crown guards.

That aside, considering it's the copy of a model that's been obsolete since the mid-'80s and that the real deal changes hands starting from $20k for a ropey example, this is a way for us ordinary mortals to experience the look without giving our bank manager nightmares.

I've learned relatively quicky that it doesn't pay to go for the ultra-cheap deals on Ali Express and that if you want something good you'd be well advised to stay above $200 (not counting super discounts). However, for less than $300 this is one hell of a watch.

And I don't mean "for that kind of money", it's a hell of a watch, period. All stainless steel, exemplary fit and finish, solid bracelet with super-tight tolerances and a box sapphire crystal with A/R coating.

Inside is a Seiko NH34 GMT calibre - so far it's keeping time at +5s/day - about which everything has been written and to which I do not wish to add any more.

Dimensions are 39.5 mm diameter, 12.5 mm thickness, 48 mm lug to lug and 20 mm lug width. Water resistance is a competent 100 m for a non-diver and is aided by a screw-down crown and caseback, weight is 159 grams.

The dial is matte black and very crisply printed, as per the original, with a with non-matching date window at 3 (again, as per original). The hour and minute hands are black at the hub, painted white and lumed, the seconds hand is white with a lumed lollipop half way and a lollipop counterbalance, and then there is the signature orange "freccione" (big arrow) GMT hand which, unlike the original, is adjustable to show a different timezone and is not just a large AM - PM indicator.

The indices and hands are lumed with a faux patina the hue of pumpkin spice latte and may not be to everyone's taste. That said, they glow strong for a non-dive watch.

The case sports horizontal brushing on the lugs and sides, radial brushing on the steel bezel and high-polish chamfers on the upper edges and the side of the bezel, done to an almost Grand Seiko standard, dare I say it.

The bracelet is a longitudinally brushed oyster style with polished sides and the clasp is fully milled, brushed with an etched starfish logo and high-polish chamfered edges; as mentioned, it features on-the-fly adjustment, is secured by double push buttons and opens and shuts with a positive action.

The links are one-piece and not fully articulated - the only sign of cost-cutting - but on the plus side, they are fixed with screws. That said, if you have especially beefy wrists like myself, you need not remove any links at all, which may be a problem for bigger guys.

This is a watch that quality-wise can give many a big brand a run for its money, and if you want a vintage look with modern mechanicals, and are not too bothered about originality, it's definitely worth considering.