Help Me build a Frankenwatch!
Need some help from the crunchmodders. I’ve got this cool Lord Elgin Aquamaster case and dial.
I’d like to put a replacement automatic movement, stem, crown and hands but something inexpensive I can pick up on AliExpress.
Questions:
How do I figure out the right size and model to serve as a good replacement?
Is a movement holder essential and if so how do I size the correct type?
I have done a DIY watch kit and I do have SOME skills 🤫. Tools too. I’ve posted some shots of case size, interior and exterior, dial, dial posts, case width.
Suggestions?
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Cris B
Haven’t been collecting long. Vintage mostly, but experimenting lately with some new stuff. Most of my purchases are less than $100.
Massachusetts, USA
Member since
Last active: 33 min ago
17.78 cm
Sorry. Not a watch modder but good luck with your project!
I'm not a watchmaker and TOTALLY unqualified to answer your question.
But I'm going to try anyway.
An NH34 won't work because it's 27.4mm in diameter. It'll never fit inside. Also they are pretty chunky at a 7.4mm in height with the rotor. Once you subtract out an estimated 2mm of crystal height and 2mm of case thickness (a total guess) from your height measurement of 10.6 your probably left with about 6.6mm or less. Most NH35 cases are 12mm and thicker for a reason.
An Sw200 (or Pt5000) might work. It's a little smaller at 26.5mm in diameter and an overall height of 6.5mm. but still a tight squeeze.
Another contender might be a Miyota 9015. At around 26mm and 6mm respectively.
A quick Google search tells me this case might have originally used an automatic movement that was 26mm and 5.2mm respectively (a variation on the ETA2472) so I would think hand wound movement might be a better fit. Since there is no rotor they are much smaller. A sellita sw210 is 26mm in diameter and 5.1mm high. Or a Miyota 8N33 is 26mm by a svelte 4.5mm
There is a problem with the AliExpress requirement. Neither the SW210 or the 8N33 are on AliX and neither are particularly cheap.
You could source an ETA2472 from eBay for $100 or so, but it will be at least 50 years old and need to be serviced, $$$. Not to mention finding a handset for it.
No matter which movement you use, there's a strong likelihood you'll have defile the poor dial by cutting the dial feet and use dial dots.
But fitting a movement into case isn't going to be your only challenge. I couldn't begin to tell you if one of these movements will line up the crown stem at the crown tube at the correct height. As well as lining up the date window. The 2472 is the best bet to fit but the least likely to run well.
To be clear, it would be 100% redneck engineering, and a complete Frankenbeast. But if it were my project, to fit the movement, I would remove the rotor from a PT5000 and just use the hand wind function, and cross my fingers that the date window and the crown stem match up. As the clone of a different ETA movement that is roughly the same diameter (the 2824) I'm betting my chances are good. The PT5000 is reasonably cheap, easy to get on AliX and has plenty of handset options (I would probably go with a simple set of silver baton hands). I would definitely make sure the date window matched up before I started clipping the dial feet off.
Oh crap! I just noticed you'll need to find a replacement crown! Eh... Not the end of the world. I suppose
The short answer is, your project is likely a non starter.
But remember. I'm just a dumihed, I'm likely wrong, and should never be taken seriously
I'm not a watchmaker and TOTALLY unqualified to answer your question.
But I'm going to try anyway.
An NH34 won't work because it's 27.4mm in diameter. It'll never fit inside. Also they are pretty chunky at a 7.4mm in height with the rotor. Once you subtract out an estimated 2mm of crystal height and 2mm of case thickness (a total guess) from your height measurement of 10.6 your probably left with about 6.6mm or less. Most NH35 cases are 12mm and thicker for a reason.
An Sw200 (or Pt5000) might work. It's a little smaller at 26.5mm in diameter and an overall height of 6.5mm. but still a tight squeeze.
Another contender might be a Miyota 9015. At around 26mm and 6mm respectively.
A quick Google search tells me this case might have originally used an automatic movement that was 26mm and 5.2mm respectively (a variation on the ETA2472) so I would think hand wound movement might be a better fit. Since there is no rotor they are much smaller. A sellita sw210 is 26mm in diameter and 5.1mm high. Or a Miyota 8N33 is 26mm by a svelte 4.5mm
There is a problem with the AliExpress requirement. Neither the SW210 or the 8N33 are on AliX and neither are particularly cheap.
You could source an ETA2472 from eBay for $100 or so, but it will be at least 50 years old and need to be serviced, $$$. Not to mention finding a handset for it.
No matter which movement you use, there's a strong likelihood you'll have defile the poor dial by cutting the dial feet and use dial dots.
But fitting a movement into case isn't going to be your only challenge. I couldn't begin to tell you if one of these movements will line up the crown stem at the crown tube at the correct height. As well as lining up the date window. The 2472 is the best bet to fit but the least likely to run well.
To be clear, it would be 100% redneck engineering, and a complete Frankenbeast. But if it were my project, to fit the movement, I would remove the rotor from a PT5000 and just use the hand wind function, and cross my fingers that the date window and the crown stem match up. As the clone of a different ETA movement that is roughly the same diameter (the 2824) I'm betting my chances are good. The PT5000 is reasonably cheap, easy to get on AliX and has plenty of handset options (I would probably go with a simple set of silver baton hands). I would definitely make sure the date window matched up before I started clipping the dial feet off.
Oh crap! I just noticed you'll need to find a replacement crown! Eh... Not the end of the world. I suppose
The short answer is, your project is likely a non starter.
But remember. I'm just a dumihed, I'm likely wrong, and should never be taken seriously
This is incredible information and I soooo appreciate you taking the time to share it!!!
I was beginning to suspect the same. I was clearly hoping the Frankenwatch approach would make things “easy” or at least easier than sourcing and finding OEM. If this is a project I’m going to take on, I think I need to be further along my watchmaking journey, skills wise. 🤓. Thank you sincerely!!