Serica 5303 Review

I migrated my Serica 5303-2 review from Watchuseek.com and slightly updated it for the occasion.. 

TLDR:

Positives: Gorgeous small diver with a very distinctive design language and some unique properties like the twin-scale bezel and mesh clasp with fitted end link. Very comfortable on the wrist (with one caveat; see negatives). Punching well above its price segment. Superb accuracy (+0.18s per day currently). Domed sapphire gives acrylic vibes. Great customer service. Optional 09.00 crown version available. Goes great with NATO strap.
 

Negatives: Mesh bracelet can be fiddly to adjust as there are no reference points to help align the indentations. Bracelet end link might occasionally pluck your arm hair (if you are as hairy as me; see above photo). Could use one additional indentation for smaller wrists. 

Wishlist for next generation of 5303s: Bidirectional bezel. Date wheel. Small markings on mesh bracelet for adjustments. Single Serica logo or name to fill out the negative space on the upper dial.


Background story
The last couple of years saw me buying and reselling a couple of field and diver watches after the bezel of my trusty Seiko Turtle (SRP773K1) gave up on me and I just couldn't ignore the misaligned chapter ring any longer. My requirements for the replacement watch seemed initially simple on paper: it would need to have a distinctive design, be comfortable on the wrist, and be sturdy and water-resistant enough for the occasional trip to the beach or mountains. A diving bezel was initially not mandatory since it had been 20 years since I last dived. Thus started my journey which was littered with bad purchases and some eureka moments before I ended with the Serica.

I initially went for a couple of microbrands whose looks and specifications ticked all the checkmarks but who failed some basic QA related issues once I received them. Looks like chapter ring misalignments were not only limited to Seiko. Worse, the crown stem of a Swiss-made microbrand just popped out while I was winding it. I was demoralized and sold one of them. I even bought a Seiko again, but a spongy bezel and slightly off chapter ring (yes, fool me once etc.) cooled me from the brand completely. I was just about to give up when I saw the photos of the Serica 5303 pop up on the web.

What caught my initial attention was the distinctive dial, diminutive size, destro crown option (I'm right-handed but love unorthodox-positioned crowns), and the mesh bracelet that promised a comfortable wear. You see, I was pampered by my previous Seiko Turtle. As many problems it had, its cushion case made it very comfortable on my rather diminutive wrist. This watch looked like it could pull off the same trick.

So I pulled the trigger.

Enter the Serica 5303.

 

Le Téméraire
The moment I held the watch in my hand, any lingering fears about recurrent issues from my previous purchases disappeared. Everything that made the watch so distinctive in the photos looked even better in person.
 

First, the white dial makes for a very readable canvas for the rectangular (12, 3, 6, and 9 o'clock) and circular hour markings (for the remaining hours) that are perfectly aligned with the arrow hands. The black minute track on the outer side help frame these and mirrors the black minute section on the bezel to create a parallel effect. The circular hour markings have lines that protrude from the minute track and remind me of timpani drumsticks. Serica and Swiss text can be found next to the 6'o clock marker. The only other text on the dial is the black 300m -1000ft depth rating and the red S617. S617 probably stands for the French nuclear submarine "Le Téméraire" (The Bold). I like the idea behind the connotation (300m diver, daring design) but it's just a connotation. It would have been great if the watch would have a real-life connection with the submarine (eg, use submarine steel, like Sinn does). 

Also, I believe the depth rating could have better spacing. You can barely see it without magnification but there is a space between the m and the hyphen:
300m -1000ft
 

This would look better without a space:
300m-1000ft

Or even better, with a slash (as found on the case back and in line with its use as a conjunction mark):
300m/1000ft
 

Regarding the printed text. I can't help but think that a simple print of Serica on the upper dial would have helped balance the dial a little. The empty upper dial creates a negative space that sometimes, depending on the position of the hands, feels barren when compared to the lower section (especially with its red text). Some purists like that look but I would love to see the brand name play a more prominent role here. While we are at it, might I even suggest a day window for the second generation of Serica dive watches? I'm sure the brains behind this cool design can come up with a perfect placing for the window. 
All this is crowned by a double domed sapphire crystal that slightly distorts the view on the edges, giving an acrylic glass vibe.

Obsidian eclipse
Framing the dial is the twin-scaled bezel that is composed of a brushed steel and a black ceramic insert section and which is a continuation of the design layout found on the dial. The brushed steel part might be narrower than the ceramic part, but the sunburst effect it gives off balances the latter's black ring. The pip and minutes/hours on each section are spot-on aligned with each other. The bezel itself, while very sturdy, is easy to grip and very snappy and satisfying to rotate. Related to this, I wonder if a bidirectional bezel has been a missed opportunity on this watch, considering the multiple functions of the bezel (minute countdown, hour countdown, 15-minute countdown, poor man's GMT). I do not like turning the bezel all the way around to start a countdown/time lapse that I have missed by mere minutes. I mean, I have a Vostok Amphibia with a bidirectional friction bezel and that thing's bezel never moves throughout the day after I set it. The bezel on the Serica begs to be used, even if it's only for timing dog walks or cooking.

 

Subdued bling
The case itself, with an oversized, polished crown (at 9'o clock on mine), is perfectly sized at 39mm x 12.20mm and the lug-to-lug distance of 46.5mm makes it a very comfortable wear on my 16 cm wrist. It has brushed and polished sections, with the twisted lugs combining both. Even the curved protrusion that holds the case back is polished and looks great from the side. All this results in a watch that despite its robustness (300m depth rating, crystal glass, shock-proof movement) doesn't shy from the limelight, proudly capturing and reflecting any light with gusto. One moment it's a tool watch, one blink later, it has turned into a snappy dress watch. Or just imagine the reverse scenario: a rakish Jean-Paul Belmondo giving you a wink at the bar, downing his cocktail, and then proceeding to pummel some bad guys. That's the kind of vibe I get from this piece.

 

The case back that holds the SOPROD Newton movement is business-like, with a small Serica logo and additional info for depth rating, unit no., company name. Speaking of the movement, it comes in regulated and has currently a superb accuracy of +0.18s per day. 
 

Achilles' Strap
Let's get to the one divisive feature of the watch: the mesh bracelet with its tailored end-link. On the one hand, it's an elegant solution that addresses the one reason I do not like normal mesh bracelets on other watches: the gap between the lugs and the case. On my previous watches, it just ruined the overall look. This approach combines the best of both worlds and results in a light and sturdy bracelet that conforms with the overall design.

On the other hand, its implementation could have some upgrades. 

First, there is the issue with the connection point of the mesh bracelet and the end link. The connection points are open-sided (see photo). This might give them a cool, industrial look, but they also occasionally catch and pluck my arm hair. In Serica's defence, I'm pretty hairy, so most people won't experience the same issue  (Update: Months later, I do not experience any hair plucking anymore. Either I got desensitized or I just over reacted at the beginning. I also started wearing it with a NATO strap.). Maybe opting for a closed connection point by tapering the mesh by 1mm might solve this issue in the future. 
 

Might occasional pluck hairs.  

Another individual issue on my part is that I would have preferred an additional dent on the mesh (remember, tiny wrists on my side). I like my watches below the wrist and securely hugging my upper forearm. With the current bracelet, even when using the last dent, it still slides over the wrist. 
 

One more indentation please.

My last complaint is that there are no reference points for the indentations. Even as I only use the last indentation on the mesh, I still must pinpoint its exact location by feel to fasten the clip. Maybe adding small dents (eg, – o – o – o) on the other side of the mesh could act as reference points. You could slide the open clip (which would act as a reference window) to the relevant mini-dent and then push it close. I've tried something similar with a permanent marker (painted a line), and it made the process so much faster.
 

I think reference points on this side would be helpful.

Great Customer Service
Last but not least, I have to add that Serica has superb customer service. They are very friendly and get back to you within the day regarding any questions (silly ones included) or requests. Just send them an e-mail if something is on your mind.

Final thoughts
I don't want to jinx it, but this small and suave diver has become my favourite personal watch (not that there are many in my collection). It is stylish, durable, and oozing with character. It is the perfect synthesis of features I didn't know I even needed. This watch will be on my wrist for a very long time.