Vintage Rolex or new watch(es)?
Hi there,
Even if I am atm not in the position to spend that kind of money on a watch, the DJ 1601 with a white gold flutet bezel and a linen dial is kind of my "grail", if you want to call it that. It goes for ~5000€ which is a lot of money to spend on an old, mass produced watch with a shitty bracelet.
But the heart wants what the heart wants.
For that kind of money you have a lot of options if you look at new watches, even more then one for the cash. I guess the rational decision would be to go for a new watch instead (not Rolex of course, I anyway don't care for their new models), considering the risks buying vintage plus possible service costs and the "fragile" nature of old watches.
What would you do? (That would be my first luxury watch, btw.)
Welcome to my WatchCrunch profile.
Neo-vintage rather than new Rolex, no question. They're all expensive, none would be beaters with me. Yes, bad bracelets, but the 80's and 90's movements are said to be immortal. Also, they're small, thin, and comfortable. They look much more pleasant.
That being said, many modern watches are nice and comfy too, in addition to being robust. I would have to love how they look without reservations, though. Just like a, let's say, Datejust 16200.
I'd choose a vintage rolex over a new one any day. There is just something magical about the watch being old that fascinates me especially if it has attributes that represent the era it comes from....... If you could get your hands on one that is well kept, I'd say go vintage :)
Lightly used, with some warranty still.
Vintage too fragile as a daily/GADA/beater, you want a bit of anti magnetism and waterproofing
New, you just loose a lot initially with no great advantage. Any potential bugs would have been sorted by previous owner.
Then you've got your daily, and you can start saving towards your Grail.
Good luck mate 🍀
Obviously this doesn't apply to Rolex that sell over retail.
I'd suggest look at a nearly new Tudor whilst you save for the Grail.
Vintage rolex is solid. I know people who've worn just one watch as a daily gada for over half a century, without even a service.
As a long time owner of DJ 1601, I can unequivocally state that this watch is a workhorse. I got mine new in 1971 from Shreve & Co. in SF. The watch came on a lizard strap but was upgraded to a Jubilee bracelet. It cost $360. I wore daily for at least 25 years. To work, gardening, tennis, golf, weddings, sporting events, opening night at opera, etc. As I started collecting more watches it was worn less. Over the years of ownership I have not had one single problem with this watch. After not wearing it in 12 years, I retrieved from the drawer, wound it and it was off and running. I got it returned from RSC about two months ago, and it still operates within COSC parameters. I did have to have the bracelet repaired to eleviate it’s stretch from years of wear.
I owned a 1601. It was quite lovely; a strap monster. Iconic. Not a beater watch, but it can be a daily. Keep it clean and maintained. Someone you love will inherit it one day...
If you’re patient you can find watches just like this one for around $3500
I love my own 1601. In fact, I actually bought a second just because I like it so much. The drawback is the non-quickset, but I love the pie-pan dial.