Jaquet Droz Astrale Dual Time
These are the guys that F.P. Journe took to court alleging that they had copied one of Journe’s designs.
The case was lodged in 2004. It took five years to resolve. FPJ lost, embarrassingly so. It also lost the appeal, and was ordered to pay court fees. This isn’t the first time I’ve mentioned this story. I like the ones in which the arrogant and cocksure are taken down without ceremony.
The ‘defendant’ was Jaquet Droz, which ten years after its re-emergence was purchased by the Swatch Group in 2001-2002.
The modern company Jaquet Droz has nothing to do with the extraordinary Pierre Jaquet-Droz, whose timepieces and especially automata were regarded as works of sorcery in the 18th century. Among his creations was a doll that could sign its name on paper that contains 6,000 moving parts.
Nor does the current incarnation have any relation to the peculiar Jaquet Droz watch project of the 1960s, when hundreds of Swiss companies banded together to produce tens of thousands of utterly forgettable watches. It’s allowed to do its own thing; its movements are supplied by Blancpain which it then finishes to its specs.
The strap is from my favourite source in Viet Nam. Their straps are better than anything from Jean Rousseau, Camille Fournet, etc., for a quarter of the price.
Living the quiet life far from the madding crowd.
I just came across J.D. a few days ago. Never heard of it before. Their website was beyond confusing. What brands to you feel it is compatible to in terms of quality, especially finish. Thanks
I just came across J.D. a few days ago. Never heard of it before. Their website was beyond confusing. What brands to you feel it is compatible to in terms of quality, especially finish. Thanks
In terms of finishing, there is a good level of anglage visible on both dials and movement, if that floats your boat. Think GO or JLC. Not too many interior angles, but even Patek cuts corners these days, and that wasn’t a pun.
JD is an anomaly. The Swatch Group lets it get on with its own thing and it operates like a boutique watch company. Last time I checked it had less than 100 employees in toto.
Away from the more prosaic watches such as the one above, they focus on automata and fine enamel work. Here they call on extremely skilled artisans. In terms of automata they are all but unique. In terms of movement build, they draw on the aforementioned blancpain, which makes movements especially for JD. I don’t know who supplies their cases.
The main issue JD has had over the years is the size of their watches. A good number of them are 43mm in diameter, though in recent years we’ve begun to see more in 41mm and 39mm. Given the complexity of the work mounted on the dials, the size is understandable.
In terms of finishing, there is a good level of anglage visible on both dials and movement, if that floats your boat. Think GO or JLC. Not too many interior angles, but even Patek cuts corners these days, and that wasn’t a pun.
JD is an anomaly. The Swatch Group lets it get on with its own thing and it operates like a boutique watch company. Last time I checked it had less than 100 employees in toto.
Away from the more prosaic watches such as the one above, they focus on automata and fine enamel work. Here they call on extremely skilled artisans. In terms of automata they are all but unique. In terms of movement build, they draw on the aforementioned blancpain, which makes movements especially for JD. I don’t know who supplies their cases.
The main issue JD has had over the years is the size of their watches. A good number of them are 43mm in diameter, though in recent years we’ve begun to see more in 41mm and 39mm. Given the complexity of the work mounted on the dials, the size is understandable.
Thanks for the in-depth review.
What do you think about the recent 'scandal' regarding F P Journe?
I find it outrageous that FP Journe tried to sue for this design. Is he lacking in any self awareness? He should be the one sued. It's fitting with the image of arrogance that's emerging into public view.
BTW, congrats on the watch! I've loved JD designs since I was a kid. Prob more than Lange.
Also, could you drop a link to the strap makers? I'm moving into the strap phase of my watch collecting. Tks.
What do you think about the recent 'scandal' regarding F P Journe?
I find it outrageous that FP Journe tried to sue for this design. Is he lacking in any self awareness? He should be the one sued. It's fitting with the image of arrogance that's emerging into public view.
BTW, congrats on the watch! I've loved JD designs since I was a kid. Prob more than Lange.
I heard that he got drunk at a collectors’ dinner and made some lewd remarks about the wife of a watch company CEO. Apparently some FPJ collectors present were so offended that they’ve begun to offload his watches. That’s all I know and I don’t comment on heresay.
As for the court case, it’s nearly 20 years since FPJ initiated proceedings. What else is there to say? The top line is that designs are common property, not intellectual property so defined by IPR or copyright law.
The strap is from Babu Handmade in Viet Nam. The royal blue ostrich strap pictured is fantastic.
I heard that he got drunk at a collectors’ dinner and made some lewd remarks about the wife of a watch company CEO. Apparently some FPJ collectors present were so offended that they’ve begun to offload his watches. That’s all I know and I don’t comment on heresay.
As for the court case, it’s nearly 20 years since FPJ initiated proceedings. What else is there to say? The top line is that designs are common property, not intellectual property so defined by IPR or copyright law.
The strap is from Babu Handmade in Viet Nam. The royal blue ostrich strap pictured is fantastic.
I'll try their straps. You are clearly a man of good taste, so I trust your judgement.
I'll try their straps. You are clearly a man of good taste, so I trust your judgement.
Well I can vouch for that one in particular, so it’s a sample of one…
Gorgeous piece 👌🏻👏🏻