Do you know "The golden ratio of 2:1 of case size to lug width"?

The golden ratio of 2:1 of case size to lug width is a concept that some watch enthusiasts use to determine the ideal proportion of a watch. It means that the width of the strap or bracelet should be half of the diameter of the case. For example, a 36 mm case would go well with an 18 mm strap, a 38 mm case with a 19 mm strap, and so on. Some people believe that this ratio creates a balanced and harmonious look for the watch, while others think that it is too rigid and does not account for personal preference or style.

Image

Odd sized lug widths, such as 19 mm or 21 mm, are not uncommon in the watch industry. Some watch manufacturers use them for historical reasons, such as the 19 mm lug width of the Zenith El Primero, which dates back to the 1960s. Others use them for aesthetic reasons, such as the 21 mm lug width of the Breitling Navitimer 8, which was introduced in 2018 as a smaller and sleeker version of the classic Navitimer. However, some watch fans find odd sized lug widths frustrating, because they limit the options for aftermarket straps or bracelets. They may have to resort to custom-made straps, or use straps that are 1 mm wider or narrower than the lug width, which may affect the fit or the look of the watch.

Image

What do you think about the golden ratio of 2:1 of case size to lug width, and the odd sized lug widths? Do you follow these rules when choosing a watch or a strap, or do you prefer to go with your own taste and style?

Reply
·

Erm, no. I'd never heard of it, I'd never use it but if it works for you that's absolutely brilliant. I know what I like and I go for that.

My eyes would not be able to tell the difference between an 18mm and a 20mm strap unless I have the calipers out, let alone with a proportional thing on that kind of scale.

I love your attention to detail though, that's ace but it's passed me by and if something doesn't fit then I either get the file out or the Swiss Army knife depending on the the material! 😄

·

I generally find that a strap/bracelet looks best when it is slightly over the 2:1 ratio but that could just be me rounding up so as not to have odd lug widths.

·

In the grand scheme of things, I think there are many other factors of a/the watch’s design that have far greater impact than a 1mm difference in lug-width. For some pieces, an odd lug width might look marginally better, but I’m sure it is rarely (if ever) proportional to the trouble/inconvenience it causes with strap compatibility.

·

I never thought about it but here are my favorite watches and their ratios:

41mm/20mm

39mm/20mm

39mm/19mm

38mm/20mm

42.5mm/22mm

So yeah pretty much 2:1