Question: When do you consider a collaboration more of a carry?
I was reading through Only Watch 2023 articles recently and came upon the Worn & Wound write up on Furlan Marri's entry.
Quite impressive specs for a Perpetual Calendar! And even more so if you look at the quick rise of the company.
However, this got me thinking:
When do you consider a collaboration more of a carry?
Reading the article makes me wonder, with a collaboration with watchmakers Dominique Renaud and Julien Tixier, how much of this is Furlan Marri, and how much is the actual skill and the work of the watchmakers?
To be fair;
I don't think all watch companies be it small independents or micros require full integration (i.e manufacturing and produce their own movements, cases components etc...)
Collabs can be great, The Habring2 + Massena + J.N Sharpiro or NaoyaHida x The Armoury, 2 examples that come to mind when all parties brought something to the table.
But, to me, it's not clear what the value Furlan Marri brings. They're not known for being watchmakers, they source their movements externally, it's really just a vision of what they want. But is that really enough?
I could be wrong but would love to hear your thoughts.
What does Hodinkee bring to a collab besides sales? What does Revolution bring to a collab besides exposure?
Virtually every collab is a blatant cash grab that relies on limited production to capture that FOMO. The upside for both parties is enormous. You can sell out within hours and each takes a healthy profit with little to no work or investment required.
The downside is borne by collectors, who see the specific combination of features or specs that they have been dying to see on a particular model. Yet now it’s a limited edition, sold out and those colours, features or specs will never appear on another production model. At this point, the collector might as well write off the brand because the watch they wanted will never be available to them.
The collab, or the prestige of the limited edition, is more important than ongoing sales through their regular customer base or making desirable models broadly available to their regular customers.
What does Hodinkee bring to a collab besides sales? What does Revolution bring to a collab besides exposure?
Virtually every collab is a blatant cash grab that relies on limited production to capture that FOMO. The upside for both parties is enormous. You can sell out within hours and each takes a healthy profit with little to no work or investment required.
The downside is borne by collectors, who see the specific combination of features or specs that they have been dying to see on a particular model. Yet now it’s a limited edition, sold out and those colours, features or specs will never appear on another production model. At this point, the collector might as well write off the brand because the watch they wanted will never be available to them.
The collab, or the prestige of the limited edition, is more important than ongoing sales through their regular customer base or making desirable models broadly available to their regular customers.
Oh that's an aspect that's always been present but I don't think I could've succinctly articulate it as well as you have.
I see your point that in the end, the collectors, are losing out when there is limited production runs with collabs that contain features highly sought after.
I’m thinking about this model, among others. BPFF in 40.3mm with no date and a moisture indicator. Not only will this never be introduced as a catalog item, we will never see this combination in production again.
Would I buy this at MSRP. Yes. Yes I would. Preferably without any Hodinkee engraving on the case back. Would I pay a 50% premium or more because it’s limited and sold out? No. No I won’t.