first post of many

Looks really good restored. Did you do it?

Watchmaker friend of mine. 

If it is early 1980's manufacture date, it make perfect sense.  That 1980-1984 period is somewhat of a no mans land; some products were pumped out in small quantities while the Heuer company was taking its last breaths.  A little later after the Techniques d'Avant Garde takeover there were many watches released with mixed TAG and Heuer marked parts.

I didn't find anything on your watch; however, I have a little more searching to do.

Thank you! Whatever I can find out would be awesome. Legit or not I just love it. At least I know the Lemania and the case go together and there is nothing I can see on the dial to suggest it's a more modern put together or simply faked. Even the hour markers react to being charged and then deplete as you would expect 1980s applied tritium markers to  do and very similar to my late 70s and mid 80s Speedies in that regard.

Oh I think it’s legit, hoping to find more details though, my interest is piqued.

Every experienced Swiss watchmaker who has seen it also believes it to be legit. I have a photo of how it looked prior to the restoration from the 1980s. A couple of things were changed as my friend who did the restoration changed it slightly to his own likes. The inner tachy bezel was black and the base plate is an Omega 1041 rhodium (not sure why he changed that) but I have the parts. Everything else is original. 

Any luck, John? 

I'm still working on it, my gut says it is legit but I haven't been able to find the proof, yet.

Ok.  I think I know why you aren't finding the answer.  

I think watch was not made by Heuer at all; rather, I think Lemania made this watch private label for Heuer, and it was most likely a small run, or even a single run.  I would guess the approximate maufacture date is 1975-76 plus or minus a few years.  

Heuer was known to do this, for example the Heuer Monnin 844 Diver in 1979 was made by an outside company in France, eventually becoming the 1000/Aquaracer made by Heuer in Switzerland.  There was a Monnin chronograph as well.  This allowed the company to save setup costs, while testing the waters with new products.

Of course I have little proof this is the actual situation; however, the photo below of the Lemania 9801 is the smoking gun.

Have you tried writing to Tag Heuer with your question?  I would suggest that you write to them, specifically to the attention of Jack Heuer.  He was in charge of the company at the time, and this is most likely something he would know about.  Years ago, I wrote and received a response regarding my 844 Monnin.

Your watch is gorgeous, rare, and I believe it to be 100% authentic.

Hey, thanks, John. I will get onto it straight away. I'll let you know.  

Hi John. Tough trying to get in touch with him. I contacted Marco Gabella who recently did an interview with Jack Heuer for Watchonista to see if he would act as a conduit to get a message. So fingers crossed. I used to be unsure whether it was legit or not, but you put it into perspective nd something I forgot, It wasn't made by Heuer but by Lemania for Heuer - that gives the correct context.  Now to prove it. Also found these as other examples of Lemania branding for other watch companies and promotors. 

Let's see if my hunch is correct!  I can't wait to hear when you get an answer back, please let me know what you find out.  Fingers crossed.

Unfortunately Jack Heuer wasn't able to add anything to the story, as the Lemania movement wasn't used by Heuer until after Jack was pushed out of the company in 1982 - so he couldn't comment on it. However, the information from TAG Heuer Heritage is that the watch is most likely made between 1982-1985 created by a supplier or watchmaker to what end no-one is sure, but in the context of the chaotic turmoil of the Swill watch industry and the supply chain during the "quartz crises" suppliers were changed quickly and under Piaget (from 1982-1989)many elements of production and creation were outsourced to save costs.  From this point we can say that many watches were produced with the Heuer name but most likely outside of the strict control of the brand. So it is not a serially produced watch under the control of Heuer or a known prototype piece commissioned by the brand. The Lemania 1341 movement in place is correct for the Lemania case reference 9801-72. Most likely the dial is Singer (maker of Rolex Daytona dial) or a similar quality dial maker created the dial as it has a number of elements from other brands. Next move will be to contact Breguet to see if they have any Lemania records to track down the serial number 3507003 which is the correct range for Lemania. The stamp on the rotor has been added similar to other pieces as quiet a few original stamps were with suppliers like Lemania. 

So, looks as if I may never know why it has a Heuer dial...