(S)c(r)atch me if you can and other observations

I’ve come to realise that scratch resistance is the starting characteristic I look for in a new watch. Next, it is antireflective coating which should be of high quality, then the diameter of the watch, (below 41mm) followed by the lug to lug (below 49mm), case thickness (below 14mm - unfortunately  eliminating most mechanical chronographs) and lug width (below 20mm). I tend to prefer a tool watch aesthetic, which tends to typical of watches with a hardening treatment.

Next, I look for the option of a scratch resistant bracelet followed by a good (preferably Swiss), easily serviceable movement, an attractive design including dial, hands, case, and precise, undistorted lettering on the dial in a font that matches the overall design.

Then comes top quality lume (when the design requires lume), made in a country that has a reputation for making good quality watches, and some type of story/heritage that I identify with. The manufacturer must have a good reputation thereby eliminating most Kickstarter brands.

Proprietary high quality case design and technology trumps in-house movement. I prefer easily serviceable, good quality, proven third party movements to expensive or difficult to service in-house movements. Ideally, a family owned company that is pleasant to deal with and where I can buy directly rather than through an AD, and receive good post sales service going forward.

The price should be reasonable. Not cheap, not exorbitant but fair, both to the buyer and the seller. Water resistance rating is not that important to me although anything above 100 metres is preferred.

Some brands that fit the scratch resistant / hardening criteria and most of the other broad categories are mostly German but there are also other brands from other countries that offer good offerings:

Sinn, Damasko, Archimede, Defakto (getting better), Guinand (although mostly breaching the thickness criteria and only bezel and bracelet clasps are typically hardened/scratch resistant), Circula, VPC Type 37HW.

Rado with their ceramic cases and bracelets, whilst part of the Swatch Group, represents decent value on the second hand market, although only some designs appeal to me.

Traska and Zelos are worthwhile mentions although I have found the Traska designs to be too generic for my taste.  Whilst the Zelos designs are innovative and their use of materials forward-looking, they are sometimes ''overdesigned'' and, the AR coating on the various Zelos I have owned tends to fall short, although their customer service is top-notch.

How important is the scratch resistance factor relative to other factors in your decision to buy a watch?

Reply
·

Great tool watch, looking so strong and cool. The dial with double ar coating looks like you can get lost in it