Review: vintage looks, modern interior

People buy vintage watches because of the style, and sometimes because they can be had cheaper, even at the risk of getting yourself a near non-runner.

Apart from reviving their back catalogue for the umptieth time, some watch companies make new watches in a vintage style to appeal to a particular corner in the watch market, and one such watch is this 8549458 from Escapement Time. The reference number does not show in their listings - I am afraid you have to browse to find it. Please note that it is listed in its black colour variant.

What gives the watch its vintage look are the applied indices. Each 5 minute index is a double index made with an angled valley in between. This is probably supposed to be a really good light reflector, and I have seen similar on vintage watches, but it is rarely used on modern watches. The reason is probably that (i) it looks a bit dainty, and (ii) is not as effective a light reflector as other styles with applied indices.

Dress watch collectors should note that this has a 38mm dial, departing from the questionable modern trend of oversized dress watches. The thickness of 11mm is suitable for keeping it under a cuff. The movement is a PT5000 (thus: 28,800 beats), we have 50atm water resistance, a screw-down crown and sapphire crystal. Basically: good specs, a well-built modern watch without any of the compromises and risks that often come when buying vintage.

Quite unusually, the watchband is branded, but not branded by the watch company. It is a branded TimeKing, surely a Chinese watchband company: apparently they sell watchbands in Walmart - I have not seen their name elsewhere. Anyway, this is one of the better straps you find on AliExpress watches. If you want to change it nevertheless (you may have seen one black alligator band too many) the lugwidth is 20mm.

The watch is also available in a black dial, with a colour-matching date wheel. This particular attention to detail is actually quite rare with Ali watches.

I bought the watch for £150 in October, the price has since dropped to £140. It's a perfectly decent watch for the price.

Review: vintage looks, modern interior

4.6
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5/5
  • elegant vintage looks
  • applied indices
  • good specs
  • lacks a "oh wow" characteristic
Reply
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Looks a lot like the Longines Heritage Conquest - although, I don’t think those come in a 38mm

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Chunghauphoto

Looks a lot like the Longines Heritage Conquest - although, I don’t think those come in a 38mm

Didn't know about the Longines, thanks for the info. Apparently that's a 35mm, and they put the date at the 12. That watch has some lume.

Weirdly, for the black dial, Longines didn't colour-match the date-wheel,, but Escapement Time did for theirs.

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uhrensohn

Didn't know about the Longines, thanks for the info. Apparently that's a 35mm, and they put the date at the 12. That watch has some lume.

Weirdly, for the black dial, Longines didn't colour-match the date-wheel,, but Escapement Time did for theirs.

Yes 35mm but I think they do it in a 40mm now (or some variation). The line was originally (re)issued in different case materials and without a date window. Does ET one also have a caseback engraving too?

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Chunghauphoto

Yes 35mm but I think they do it in a 40mm now (or some variation). The line was originally (re)issued in different case materials and without a date window. Does ET one also have a caseback engraving too?

The ET has a see-through caseback

Image
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Chunghauphoto

Looks a lot like the Longines Heritage Conquest - although, I don’t think those come in a 38mm

Agreed about the Longines homage.