Omega Seamaster 120M. What are some cool underrated watches that you love?

Omega Seamaster 120M Ref. 166.088. What are some cool underrated watches that you love?

The Omega Seamaster 120 Ref. 166.088 was introduced in 1969 and shares many similarities with other dive watches from the Seamaster collection of that era. The two-piece case was crafted by EPSA, a company renowned for their Super Compressor case design. The mineral glass crystal is designed to withstand extra pressure underwater, and the bi-directional bezel has a faded blue shade. The black dial features a simple and understated design, with my personal favorite aspect being the distinctive aqua blue color of the seconds hand, which enhances its visibility. We paired it on our Vintage Grey Leather NATO strap.

It appears that not many people are aware of this particular model or the Seamaster 120m line in general. What are some other underrated watches that you like?

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For me it is Corum Bubble, introduced in 2000, an oversized watch with a large crystal.

The later re-releases in 2015 are ugly though. For any bubble pre2015.

I can understand why a lot of people dislike them. But for me, it's that kinda watch that looks amazing on the wrist, and very attractive. I get asked about it from non-watch enthusiasts very often when I wear them.

I liked so much that I bought 4 of them.

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Adi365

For me it is Corum Bubble, introduced in 2000, an oversized watch with a large crystal.

The later re-releases in 2015 are ugly though. For any bubble pre2015.

I can understand why a lot of people dislike them. But for me, it's that kinda watch that looks amazing on the wrist, and very attractive. I get asked about it from non-watch enthusiasts very often when I wear them.

I liked so much that I bought 4 of them.

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Well I’d argue the Bubble is hated rather than underrated. As a Bubble owner myself, I get a lot of sh*t for wearing it, but I don’t particularly care. It’s also one of the least legible watches in my collection, and wears like a hand grenade, but that’s part of the appeal.

How any vintage Omega Seamaster diver can be seen to be underrated is beyond me. The only vintage Omegas that could even begin to be described as close to underrated are the Chronostop, which was the subject of a recent post from @WatchYourIntruder (and which I am also an owner of one, so hey, you see a common thread here), and potentially the Seamaster Ranchero. The Ranchero sold badly because no one wanted a watch model effectively named “Farm Hand”; it sold so badly it never really made it past 3 years in circulation, and the later reissue attempt died a death. It’s one watch Omega would want you to forget existed. Saying that, it’s highly desirable on the vintage market, so therefore it’s “underrated-ness” is moot as the right buyer will pay the right price, and they swap hands relatively easily.

I’ve waxed lyrical regarding what people regard as underrated, and it’s not easy to really pinpoint an actual definition we can all agree on. What I will definitely say, a Seamaster diver will never be an easy argument here, as it is very much a watch that people try and homage (Cooper Submaster comes to mind straight off the bat with the shape and blue bezel, albeit the dial does borrow from some Rolex/CWC references).

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Porthole

Well I’d argue the Bubble is hated rather than underrated. As a Bubble owner myself, I get a lot of sh*t for wearing it, but I don’t particularly care. It’s also one of the least legible watches in my collection, and wears like a hand grenade, but that’s part of the appeal.

How any vintage Omega Seamaster diver can be seen to be underrated is beyond me. The only vintage Omegas that could even begin to be described as close to underrated are the Chronostop, which was the subject of a recent post from @WatchYourIntruder (and which I am also an owner of one, so hey, you see a common thread here), and potentially the Seamaster Ranchero. The Ranchero sold badly because no one wanted a watch model effectively named “Farm Hand”; it sold so badly it never really made it past 3 years in circulation, and the later reissue attempt died a death. It’s one watch Omega would want you to forget existed. Saying that, it’s highly desirable on the vintage market, so therefore it’s “underrated-ness” is moot as the right buyer will pay the right price, and they swap hands relatively easily.

I’ve waxed lyrical regarding what people regard as underrated, and it’s not easy to really pinpoint an actual definition we can all agree on. What I will definitely say, a Seamaster diver will never be an easy argument here, as it is very much a watch that people try and homage (Cooper Submaster comes to mind straight off the bat with the shape and blue bezel, albeit the dial does borrow from some Rolex/CWC references).

I thought the earlier bubbles are very popular among collectors, not the later releases. I usually get compliments than hate.

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Adi365

I thought the earlier bubbles are very popular among collectors, not the later releases. I usually get compliments than hate.

I get nothing but hate, but I couldn’t care less.

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I could put a long list here (that I doubt @Porthole would disapprove)...but I will try and keep it to just a few.

Some rules...it can't be a reference that the brand (or revived brand) has reissued...no one reissues an "underrated" watch unless they plan to lose money (which is highly unlikely). Also, it can't be from a brand that has spent significant advertising muscle promoting it...same kinda point as the prior one.

With that...here goes...

Favre-Leuba has to be one of the most underrated classic Swiss brands (now owned by the Indian conglomerate Tata Industries).

Here is a relatively recent "Raider Harpoon" reference. I paid 33% of its list price brand new/box & papers. This is an incredibly well made watch that definitely punches its weight in the $5k price range and an amazing deal for around $1,500. Underrated equals massive discounts (not something you could generally equate with any Omega).

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Favre-Leuba also has some amazing vintage pieces that are relatively unknown to the average vintage collector, but highly desired by those that know (and consequently bear a premium price when in spectatcular condition). Here is the "Deep Blue" from 1972...truly amazing watch...notice that color-matched date wheel produced in 1972!

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Another brand that gets little love, but has been working on raising its profile is Titoni. Much more popular in Southeast Asia than in the West. The good news is that Titoni has been really vigilent about maintaining its list prices...you rarely see one at any kind of significant discount.

Here is a recent chronograph, appropriately named "Heritage Chronograph", that was clearly attempting to give a vintage feel but not one that replicates any prior release by Titoni...

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They also have a great back catalogue, though you need to be very wary of the many frankensteins and redials coming from certain parts of the globe, one of which is the should-be famous "Race King" from 1971...

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I could keep going but that probably is enough for now.

Enjoy!

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ChronoGuy

I could put a long list here (that I doubt @Porthole would disapprove)...but I will try and keep it to just a few.

Some rules...it can't be a reference that the brand (or revived brand) has reissued...no one reissues an "underrated" watch unless they plan to lose money (which is highly unlikely). Also, it can't be from a brand that has spent significant advertising muscle promoting it...same kinda point as the prior one.

With that...here goes...

Favre-Leuba has to be one of the most underrated classic Swiss brands (now owned by the Indian conglomerate Tata Industries).

Here is a relatively recent "Raider Harpoon" reference. I paid 33% of its list price brand new/box & papers. This is an incredibly well made watch that definitely punches its weight in the $5k price range and an amazing deal for around $1,500. Underrated equals massive discounts (not something you could generally equate with any Omega).

Image

Favre-Leuba also has some amazing vintage pieces that are relatively unknown to the average vintage collector, but highly desired by those that know (and consequently bear a premium price when in spectatcular condition). Here is the "Deep Blue" from 1972...truly amazing watch...notice that color-matched date wheel produced in 1972!

Image

Another brand that gets little love, but has been working on raising its profile is Titoni. Much more popular in Southeast Asia than in the West. The good news is that Titoni has been really vigilent about maintaining its list prices...you rarely see one at any kind of significant discount.

Here is a recent chronograph, appropriately named "Heritage Chronograph", that was clearly attempting to give a vintage feel but not one that replicates any prior release by Titoni...

Image

They also have a great back catalogue, though you need to be very wary of the many frankensteins and redials coming from certain parts of the globe, one of which is the should-be famous "Race King" from 1971...

Image

I could keep going but that probably is enough for now.

Enjoy!

These are some amazing pieces! 🙌

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twostitchstraps

These are some amazing pieces! 🙌

Thanks!!