What are some quirks you look for in a watch?

I think the most obvious things people look for in a watch are of course, the design and specs. Price is definitely a huge thing too. Some people really appreciate brand heritage, and some like the "clout." I suppose some people also like collecting specific watches too (e.g. COMEX Subs).

In line with considering the design, I have been trying to buy watches that fit well with my wardrobe, from more formal to the casual (and everything in between). I think that's why I'm often drawn to dress watches with a sporty edge or sports watches with a dressy vibe.

What are your quirks when looking for a watch, if any?

Reply
·

With me the thickness of the watch case matters a lot. I wear mine to work, too. While a dress watch looks nice, a sports watch isn't so much of an issue, as long as it slides under the cuff. On that note, I should really look for more hand-wound watches. 😉

·

This is going to sound totally superficial, but for me it's the hands of a watch. The hands either speak to me or they don't and they can totally make or break a watch purchase for me. I really like the dial on the Seamaster 300m with the ceramic waves, but I'm indifferent on the skeleton hands. Don't hate them, but don't love them either. I much prefer the broad arrows on the Planet Ocean, therefore if I was getting an Omega diver, I'd go for the PO.

Same with Doxa. Love everything about the Sub 300, but just couldn't pull the trigger on a watch with a huge minute hand and a miniscule hour hand. It's something I can't get past. 

This is also true for Grand Seiko. Love the handset they use on their sports watches with the squared off hour hand, but don't really care for the dauphine hand set on their heritage collection. 

Yes, I realize this is totally irrational, but it is what it is.

·
GoingTopShelf

This is going to sound totally superficial, but for me it's the hands of a watch. The hands either speak to me or they don't and they can totally make or break a watch purchase for me. I really like the dial on the Seamaster 300m with the ceramic waves, but I'm indifferent on the skeleton hands. Don't hate them, but don't love them either. I much prefer the broad arrows on the Planet Ocean, therefore if I was getting an Omega diver, I'd go for the PO.

Same with Doxa. Love everything about the Sub 300, but just couldn't pull the trigger on a watch with a huge minute hand and a miniscule hour hand. It's something I can't get past. 

This is also true for Grand Seiko. Love the handset they use on their sports watches with the squared off hour hand, but don't really care for the dauphine hand set on their heritage collection. 

Yes, I realize this is totally irrational, but it is what it is.

I agree with you on the skeleton hands. If you like the Seamaster style other than the hands, you may want to check out something along the lines of the 2255.80, which has the SMP design but uses the much more attractive arrow hands.

Image
·

Apparently I specialise in getting stupid vintage movements that no one will touch or can’t be repaired. That’s my modus operandi.

·
Porthole

Apparently I specialise in getting stupid vintage movements that no one will touch or can’t be repaired. That’s my modus operandi.

Salty much?

·

I wear a jacket or suit and tie almost every work day. I lean in the dress watch direction. Criteria in order of importance:

a. Can I read the dial with a furtive glance?

b. Are the hands sufficiently different that I don't confuse them?

c. If there is a day or date do I have to squint to make it out?

d. Will it fit under a cuff?

e. I don't like blocky indices or hands. Divers are made this way for conditions that I don't encounter. I don't like vintage handsets on modern watches (Vario excluded).

f. Too much white space on a dial is worse than unnecessary lettering.  They are both turnoffs.

g. I don't need to know if it is "Quartz" on the dial.  Quartz has been the default for forty years.

h. Is it tasteful and refined? Is it a little unexpected?

Edit: It occurs to me that my focus on vintage pieces make "g" an issue when it really isn't.  In 1979 Seiko was bragging that a piece was "quartz" because that was modern and more accurate.  Modern watches don't brag that they are quartz.

·
Aurelian

Salty much?

Just my own tears 😂 - the ChronOris, Delta, Talis, and an Avia are officially dead.

The Vertex and the Gruen are getting repaired. My watch guy got very excited about the Gruen, there is some Rolex-related heritage there and the case is genuine, plus the rare dial. The Vertex is from 1936, and has similar movements to IWC, so again it’s a full service and it’s good to go. The Buren Grand Prix is on hold for now because he’s busy - it’s worth keeping.

IVhSrYVxZ5ISHA94cVPahPK31ycf8wYB8NTr9E8J.jpeg?h=320&ixlib=php-3.3.1&s=12f80c52327e93120feb6f50c36a3d10
lxs9lYjYaxOWKgfLXVkZOlLOS1pSRKLOT9qJ2PCa.jpeg?h=320&ixlib=php-3.3.1&s=714a801d2108238ca2ef65f0945c28f7
Image

Sometimes you luck out.

·
Aurelian

I wear a jacket or suit and tie almost every work day. I lean in the dress watch direction. Criteria in order of importance:

a. Can I read the dial with a furtive glance?

b. Are the hands sufficiently different that I don't confuse them?

c. If there is a day or date do I have to squint to make it out?

d. Will it fit under a cuff?

e. I don't like blocky indices or hands. Divers are made this way for conditions that I don't encounter. I don't like vintage handsets on modern watches (Vario excluded).

f. Too much white space on a dial is worse than unnecessary lettering.  They are both turnoffs.

g. I don't need to know if it is "Quartz" on the dial.  Quartz has been the default for forty years.

h. Is it tasteful and refined? Is it a little unexpected?

Edit: It occurs to me that my focus on vintage pieces make "g" an issue when it really isn't.  In 1979 Seiko was bragging that a piece was "quartz" because that was modern and more accurate.  Modern watches don't brag that they are quartz.

I think I’m the same with the exception of e, f, and g.

I think that sometimes blocky-ness might be part of the appeal. It also depends on how I’m feeling that day. I’m quite random in what I pick up, so if it fits the mood then I’m ok with it.

Im quite fussy about dials as well, there has to a balance. I’m probably more worries about the amount of text. I can do sterile dials, to an extent.

I used to automatically see the word quartz and then walk away (pun not intended). The older I get, the less offended by the word quartz I am. I think my Hamilton Khaki Sub did that, and as such it means I get enjoy such delights as my new Benruns Ultrasteel.

·

I do not look at gold watches (except the OP). I just don't like them. Another of my rules is that I will not spend £200+ on a quartz, although I do like the moonswatch, and rules are made to be broken right?

·
Scooby

I do not look at gold watches (except the OP). I just don't like them. Another of my rules is that I will not spend £200+ on a quartz, although I do like the moonswatch, and rules are made to be broken right?

I used to be the same about quartz, and then I spent £280 on a Kirium chronograph, and then the rest just fell out the window. £200-£300 85-99 Tag is too much fun. I should really streamline the collection.

Gold is a rare treat, but my first watches were gold or gold plate, so it doesn’t phase me.

·

Sad to say, the finer intricacies of watch Features go out of the window as the eyes begin to deteriorate,  its now for me all about legibility.

I don’t wear glasses, only for reading, however I’m at the stage where I simply can’t appreciate a watch on the wrist properly without putting my readers on. Sort of defeats the object in my opinion. Hand size is key, so all the watches I own with thin hands, particularly chronographs,  are in the departure suite waiting to be sold.

i buy watches to wear and use and admire whilst I’m wearing them, not to display in a box just to marvel at now and again. Now each to his/her own as I know some collectors just do that, but that’s my personal situation.

·

I was wanting small cases before it was cool again. 32-35mm is my sweet spot. Also, small crowns or better yet ones not at 3 o'clock. I vastly prefer white dials and my amassment of 18mm bands makes me very partial to that lug width. I've already said it today, but dive watches, chronographs, GMT and most other complications are dealbreakers but I do prefer a date function.

·

Easy...

LIKES
38-41mm width
<14mm height
</= 49mm L2L
No crown guards
Bracelets 
Inner AR coating
bigger crowns
Milled clasps
Micro adjustments
Curved/short/angled lugs 
Adjustable clasps
High beat movements

DISLIKES
>41mm width
<37mm width
>15mm height
>49mm L2L
Flat case shape/lugs
Case side engraving
NATOS
Butterfly clasps 
PVD/DLC coatings
Outer AR coating
No AR coating
Lack of quick change date on date models
Ghost date dials
Incomplete Arabic numerals
Roman numerals
small crowns
large crown guards
Folded link bracelets
No micro adjustments 
Bubble case backs
NH35 movements

·

Not to hijack the post, but what watch is this @nytime? Really cool look!

·

The watch must be 316L stainless steel or titanium, otherwise, my nickel allergy flares up.

·
nytime

I suppose bland would mean more Daniel Wellington then? 😂

I wouldnt call that patek bland its just subtle.  Daniel wellington is 100% bland  but then there are some serious watch brands like e.g. zeppelin, fossil, atlantic  that try but fail at doing more subtle watches.

·
Stan_wojenny

I wouldnt call that patek bland its just subtle.  Daniel wellington is 100% bland  but then there are some serious watch brands like e.g. zeppelin, fossil, atlantic  that try but fail at doing more subtle watches.

I think I'm veering into a different discussion but... obviously I'm sure there's big difference with finishing and movements but what would you say are the biggest differences between successful and unsuccessful subtle watches? 

·
nytime

I think I'm veering into a different discussion but... obviously I'm sure there's big difference with finishing and movements but what would you say are the biggest differences between successful and unsuccessful subtle watches? 

I think a good subtle watch doesnt pretend its something its not and lets the materials used speak for themselves.  Just like Patek You've mentioned earlier,  with its art deco influences, or Bauhaus inspired pieces.

I am aware that its not very scientific method to determine which design is succesful and which is not but what can i do.  I am just but a simple enthusiast. :D  

·
Stan_wojenny

I think a good subtle watch doesnt pretend its something its not and lets the materials used speak for themselves.  Just like Patek You've mentioned earlier,  with its art deco influences, or Bauhaus inspired pieces.

I am aware that its not very scientific method to determine which design is succesful and which is not but what can i do.  I am just but a simple enthusiast. :D  

I too have trouble describing what works and what doesn't! In many ways I think tool watches are easier to describe because they have quantifiable numbers (e.g. WR rating) we can use. Dress pieces, not so much.

·

my children got me for my 70th birthday a Junkers chronograph i just love it first German watch ever 

·
mcgivern

my children got me for my 70th birthday a Junkers chronograph i just love it first German watch ever 

Anything in particular that you love about the watch? Other than it being a gift of love 😁

·
  1. Unusual/uncommon lugs.
    2. Unusual/uncommon crown placement.
Vostok 2403/581883

3. Unusual/uncommon case shape for the watch type
 

Automatic Chronometer COSC 300M

4. Unusual movements

Bulova Accutron II Alpha Ultra High Frequency 262khz Sweep Seconds Watch,  Men's Fashion, Watches on Carousell

That's off the top of my head, for watches I am either looking to buy soon or already own.

·
marcky
  1. Unusual/uncommon lugs.
    2. Unusual/uncommon crown placement.
Vostok 2403/581883

3. Unusual/uncommon case shape for the watch type
 

Automatic Chronometer COSC 300M

4. Unusual movements

Bulova Accutron II Alpha Ultra High Frequency 262khz Sweep Seconds Watch,  Men's Fashion, Watches on Carousell

That's off the top of my head, for watches I am either looking to buy soon or already own.

I wish Bulova would somehow be able to come up with a thinner/smaller Precisionist movement. Probably would pick one up finally!

·
nytime

I wish Bulova would somehow be able to come up with a thinner/smaller Precisionist movement. Probably would pick one up finally!

I believe the Bulova Astronaut Reissue is 39mm (if that is indeed small enough).

·
marcky

I believe the Bulova Astronaut Reissue is 39mm (if that is indeed small enough).

I believe that is the older Accutron II movement, not quite sure on the differences but most Precisionists seem to be 40mm + and 12mm or thicker!

·
nytime

I believe that is the older Accutron II movement, not quite sure on the differences but most Precisionists seem to be 40mm + and 12mm or thicker!

I think you might be right. Though if I'm not mistaken, both beat at 16bps for that extra smooth sweeping seconds, with the Precisionist being more accurate. I was considering a few but decided if it's gonna be something "less wearable", at least it's not too big and would give me SOME reason to wear it (sweeping seconds and being a homage to the original Spaceview).
 

·

if spending over 1k i want different case finishing, applied markings and a signed crown. NEVER quartz at that price.

·
timetrope

if spending over 1k i want different case finishing, applied markings and a signed crown. NEVER quartz at that price.

Not even high accuracy quartz? Or it's hybrid but Spring Drive?

·
nytime

I was thinking more on the lines of buying "donor" pieces and replacing parts but honestly I have no idea what I'm talking about. 

Makes me wonder how many of the watches and brands we adore now will be able to keep ticking in 20~30 years time!

One of the reasons I consider an ETA movement a feature rather than a bug...

·

Vintages watches worn in movies 💯