Moving From "Luxury" Back To "Affordable"
I started my watch hobby (obsession) like most people I know. My first ever watch was a Seiko SNK809 I bought for $83 (that my son now wears). I spent my early days checking out various older model Seiko 5's, Hamilton's and even some Seiko Prospex models.
The 'logical' progression of watch collecting is to slowly and constantly move 'up' the ladder. At least, that's the path many find themselves on and that's the path that is presented as inevitable if you're someone interested in watches. Sure enough, that's the path I found myself on. I was fairly quickly being drawn to more expensive, nicer, better finished watches.
It's also important to note that while I appreciate more elegant, dressy watches, my personality is more drawn to tool watches. Watches that are tough. Watches that explorers and adventurers would wear. A tool watch on a nato strap does more to excite me than just about anything in the watch world. Do I climb mountains, blaze jungle trails or scuba dive shipwrecks? No. At most, I hike on trails in my local area and snorkel with a sea turtle or two when on vacation.
Aside from that, the watch I wear is part of this persona I wish to be. I see old photos of navy divers in the 70's and 80's casually wearing a Seiko like a boss and I think to myself, "THAT is what I wish I was." I'm simply not a navy salvage diver from the 1980's with a cool mustache, but I can rock a watch that a navy salvage diver from the 80's would likely wear!
This is where all this "going back to affordable" nonsense comes in. See, I thought I was suppose to aspire for more expensive, more prestigious, nicer finished watches. I bought a couple Grand Seiko's and while gorgeous, they didn't cater to my "tool watch" desire and aesthetic. So, I went for the Tudor BB58. This makes more sense. It's a diver. It's a Tudor. It's high quality. It's entry luxury and after all, that's where I'm supposed to go with all this, right?
I didn't connect with the Tudor like I thought I would and found myself wearing my cheaper Seiko SPB divers more. This wasn't right. The "solution" came in the form of the Seiko SLA057.
Legendary Seiko diver design, but with Grand Seiko finishing, assembly and movement! If the Tudor was a step up from my previous tool watches, this was a higher step up from that. We're talking an Everbrilliant Steel case (akin to Rolex 904), zaratsu polishing, a dial that had incredible attention to detail and an overall build quality that blew me away in a way no other watch has.
THIS was it. This is where everything comes together. It's certainly a luxury watch with very high end finishing; the furthest cry from where I started with the likes of my Seiko SNK809 and Hamilton. I wore it for nearly 10 months straight.
However, the more time I spent taking it on hikes or swimming in creeks and oceans, the more I started to see it in a different light. It was VERY well finished. Almost, one could argue, a little TOO well finished for the environment I kept putting it in. It looked so out of place in the woods. So... blingy (even on a nato).
This led me to buy the Seiko SRPE67. A Seiko 5 that cost me under $200, looks great on a nato and was much more subdued than my SLA. I fell in love with the case design and how it wore on my wrist. This felt more natural on my wrist, more at home.
Over the next couple of months, I started to wear the SLA less. I even took the SRPE67 on a trip to Puerto Rico where there was plenty of snorkeling to do. The little Seiko 5 was perfect. It was on my wrist when I found and swam with the first sea turtle I had ever seen in the wild, it explored rugged coastlines and beaches with me and took everything like a champ.
Right after I got back from that trip, I tried on an SKX for the first time and was blown away by how incredible it fit my wrist. I was already sold on the case and dial design as the SRPE67 is derived specifically from the SKX. An SKX felt more at home on my wrist at the end of the day than a Tudor, or Omega SMP did. It even felt more right than my 'beloved' SLA057.
I sold the SLA057. I ended up buying a Seiko 7C43-7010 from my birth year for a few hundred bucks as well as a 5KX for exactly $159. These 3 watches (two Seiko 5's and a Seiko diver from the 80's) suit me. These watches play into that persona I wish I was. I've owned a Tudor BB58, tried on an Omega SMP several times, owned a Seiko SLA and have seen the Rolex Sub in person now and honestly, love the way the Seiko SRPE67 looks, feels and wears on me than any of those. Same for the 5KX.
After a couple years and a climb "up the ladder" as it were, I finally realized what works for me. What 'fits' me and my personality. Higher end watches like a Seamaster, like a Black Bay Fifty-Eight, a Submariner or Seiko SLA are incredible. All have phenomenal movements, finishing, etc. But watches are more than the sum of their parts and so I climb back down the ladder and enjoy sitting on the bottom rung.
Current collection: Seiko SARB033, Seiko SBSA057, Seiko SZSB011
Loved the story you shared and understand exactly where you’re coming from. Great pics of all the watches. Less is more sometimes.
Great post! I like the pic of the diver. Technical point . His mask is properly hanging from his neck on land versus "Cowboy" as you see in movies. The name was given to actors who mostly did westerns before doing the Dive genre. Directors put the mask on their heads because it made the actor look cooler. "Cowboy" ruins the seal formed to the individual divers face. Official swim shorts issued once you Qual, a damned awesome tool Seiko and a dive knife. That's the life Brother!
I am a bit of a Seikofile. I wound up giving my Submariner to a friend who retired from the BUDS. He loves it. I love me some Seiko divers. Japan is a set of islands very connected to the ocean. I am super conflicted on their whaling and shark harvesting policies - i do love the country and the rest of the culture. Seiko knows divers . I love my SKX and Marine Master 300m. I recently gifted my GS diver to another friend (long story) Just think Prospex is where it's at. The LX is way more diver than the GS lineup ... if you want to go back to big $. Otherwise Prospex and my SKX are it for me
I actually think the Marinemaster is still a ton of $ for a tool diver. I am still hooked on the monoblock case and and can't part with it
You are the anomaly of the watch collector my friend. This story right here tells us that watch collecting isnt about the price but is it about the watch that speaks to us
You are the anomaly of the watch collector my friend. This story right here tells us that watch collecting isnt about the price but is it about the watch that speaks to us
The desires of the heart can be very illogical. 😂
Great post! I like the pic of the diver. Technical point . His mask is properly hanging from his neck on land versus "Cowboy" as you see in movies. The name was given to actors who mostly did westerns before doing the Dive genre. Directors put the mask on their heads because it made the actor look cooler. "Cowboy" ruins the seal formed to the individual divers face. Official swim shorts issued once you Qual, a damned awesome tool Seiko and a dive knife. That's the life Brother!
I am a bit of a Seikofile. I wound up giving my Submariner to a friend who retired from the BUDS. He loves it. I love me some Seiko divers. Japan is a set of islands very connected to the ocean. I am super conflicted on their whaling and shark harvesting policies - i do love the country and the rest of the culture. Seiko knows divers . I love my SKX and Marine Master 300m. I recently gifted my GS diver to another friend (long story) Just think Prospex is where it's at. The LX is way more diver than the GS lineup ... if you want to go back to big $. Otherwise Prospex and my SKX are it for me
I actually think the Marinemaster is still a ton of $ for a tool diver. I am still hooked on the monoblock case and and can't part with it
The navy salvage diver in the photo is cooler than I'll ever hope to be. Haha. The MM300 is awesome. A part of my story that didn't make it into the article is that I owned one for less than 24 hours once. The SLA021, in fact. LOVE everything about it except for how topheavy it was on my wrist. I got it in the mail, wore it for an afternoon and flipped it that night. My little 6.5 inch wrist just couldn't handle how much of a tank it was. 😂
Great story/post. I have been trading down from the crazy expensive pieces to things I actually like to wear and my Tudor GMT and Tudor Pelagos seem to be getting the most wrist time.
I traveled a similar road over many years of watch collecting. The luxury watches are all gone now and I much prefer hanging out on the lower rungs than being near the top. I can appreciate the nicely machined in house movements and all of their technical wizardry and finely finished cases but not enough to dole out vast amounts of money for them. That just isn't me. Never enjoyed my Omega Seamaster,Speedmaster,Chopard Mille Miglia (2001), or Breitlings nearly as much as I do my Hamiltons, Tissots,Glycines, and various microbrands.
Chacon a son gout.
The navy salvage diver in the photo is cooler than I'll ever hope to be. Haha. The MM300 is awesome. A part of my story that didn't make it into the article is that I owned one for less than 24 hours once. The SLA021, in fact. LOVE everything about it except for how topheavy it was on my wrist. I got it in the mail, wore it for an afternoon and flipped it that night. My little 6.5 inch wrist just couldn't handle how much of a tank it was. 😂
I totally get it! The watch is a damned wristburger! I will probably sell mine some day. A watch you will love ( goes on sale about 3 times a year) Marathon. The Medium and Large SAR series both ware very well. Automatic and quartz. On sale (especially in quartz) fits into your $ price point. Honestly the Automatic movement is worth the extra$. I own one and love it. Highly regulated for DOD contract
I always love hearing stories like this, as it helps counter the narrative that one must "move up the ladder".
I never got around to buying the luxury watches, I just reasoned out that my lifestyle and personality didn't match with luxury brands. I like toolish watches from tool watch brands like Marathon and Damasko, or "everyman" brands like CW.
I'm not a NATO fan though, I much prefer MN straps like this:
I always love hearing stories like this, as it helps counter the narrative that one must "move up the ladder".
I never got around to buying the luxury watches, I just reasoned out that my lifestyle and personality didn't match with luxury brands. I like toolish watches from tool watch brands like Marathon and Damasko, or "everyman" brands like CW.
I'm not a NATO fan though, I much prefer MN straps like this:
Love that CW! Very much in my wheelhouse with that one!
I traveled a similar road over many years of watch collecting. The luxury watches are all gone now and I much prefer hanging out on the lower rungs than being near the top. I can appreciate the nicely machined in house movements and all of their technical wizardry and finely finished cases but not enough to dole out vast amounts of money for them. That just isn't me. Never enjoyed my Omega Seamaster,Speedmaster,Chopard Mille Miglia (2001), or Breitlings nearly as much as I do my Hamiltons, Tissots,Glycines, and various microbrands.
Chacon a son gout.
Interesting...
I always love hearing stories like this, as it helps counter the narrative that one must "move up the ladder".
I never got around to buying the luxury watches, I just reasoned out that my lifestyle and personality didn't match with luxury brands. I like toolish watches from tool watch brands like Marathon and Damasko, or "everyman" brands like CW.
I'm not a NATO fan though, I much prefer MN straps like this:
I am definitely not a NATO strap guy. MN straps. Looking into it now. Love both watches BTW
I am definitely not a NATO strap guy. MN straps. Looking into it now. Love both watches BTW
I highly recommend Erika's MN straps. They aren't cheap, but they are amazing.
Holben's Fine Watch Bands sells them from the US, so there are no border issues for Americans. They also sell to Canada, and have been great to buy from.
Erika's Originals MN Watch Strap — Holben's Fine Watch Bands (holbensfinewatchbands.com)
Love the write up.
I'm feeling a lot of the same sentiments.
I'm not a fancy dude with a fancy job. I come from a simple family. No one cares what watch anyone wears or even IF someone is wearing a watch or not.
I'm not young enough to be seriously aspirational career-wise. I really love the idea of owning a Speedy, but I'm beginning to think I'm not meant to own one.
First of all, nice photography. 🤝
Second, I've always believed the cost of the watch has ZERO to do with the enjoyment one receives, so I appreciate what you wrote.
Great story/post. I have been trading down from the crazy expensive pieces to things I actually like to wear and my Tudor GMT and Tudor Pelagos seem to be getting the most wrist time.
For me the Tudor Pelagos was actually crazily expensive compared to all of my previous watches. But since buying it I now wear it far more than any other. So potentially I have found my ideal. Some people move up to it and some people move down to it I suppose!
The navy salvage diver in the photo is cooler than I'll ever hope to be. Haha. The MM300 is awesome. A part of my story that didn't make it into the article is that I owned one for less than 24 hours once. The SLA021, in fact. LOVE everything about it except for how topheavy it was on my wrist. I got it in the mail, wore it for an afternoon and flipped it that night. My little 6.5 inch wrist just couldn't handle how much of a tank it was. 😂
Great story! This is the stuff of watch collecting. Not the bling bling. The expression of the self, the appreciation for culture and history. And not to sound grandiose, but also self discovery.
I have a seiko MM that's top heavy. The one with the legendary 7c46 quartz movement. All metal construction and designed specifically to survive the pressures of saturation driving. Because mechanical movements were breaking under that pressure But I don't wear it enough. And I can't bear to sell it.
For me the Tudor Pelagos was actually crazily expensive compared to all of my previous watches. But since buying it I now wear it far more than any other. So potentially I have found my ideal. Some people move up to it and some people move down to it I suppose!
It happens… you have a honeymoon period, a second wind, and sometimes if you are lucky enough to have more than one you end up with a selection of regulars for rotation. Sometimes it’s a simple strap change and then a sub comes off the bench. Style and preference is not constant, so enjoy it for what it is. Saying that, both my father and grandfather effectively wore the same watch every day for years, and I managed the 1WC and many days beyond with the CWC, so it’s possible to stick with one. I don’t think you should be ashamed whether it’s a Tudor or a budget alternative, just whatever works for you. There is no right or wrong way to “watch”.
I totally get it. In my 10+ years in this hobby, I have learned that there is zero correlation between the price tag and the enjoyment of having a given watch on the wrist
There is a category I call "validation pieces", ie watches you think you must own to be taken seriously in the community. Think Speedmaster, Rolex GMT Master II, Grand Seiko Skyflake, Breitling Navitimer ..... that populate 50 % of IG and YT content
You might buy one after a few Seiko, Hamilton, Longines and a few microbrands, only to realise that they don't necessarily bring a smile to your face, as much as a Halios would.
and you don't need a validation piece, anyway
Great story and love a tool watch. My dream watch was always the rolex explorer 2 but rolex wouldn't sell me one and I wasn't willing to pay the ridiculous second hand prices. Long story short, since buying a Sinn U50 that rolex desire has completely disappeared for me and my Sinn is a keeper.
Such a great write-up!
Great story and love a tool watch. My dream watch was always the rolex explorer 2 but rolex wouldn't sell me one and I wasn't willing to pay the ridiculous second hand prices. Long story short, since buying a Sinn U50 that rolex desire has completely disappeared for me and my Sinn is a keeper.
LOVE the Sinn U50. Owned one for a while. It fit like a dream on my wrist and it's the definition of "built like a tank tool watch."
Man, this is SO spot on.
I grew up watching Brosnan as 007. Obviously i'm a huge sucker for Omega in general and Seamaster in particular, but for some reason i'm always finding myself looking at vintage Geneves and Cosmics way more often. And then i've realised something. It was ALWAYS the same. I remember how i was in the cab on my way to pick up beautiful USA Fender Tele, and i canceled the appointment. I wasn't ready for this guitar. I guess i'm never gonna be ready to give up my bespoke tele, which is built with a great care, attention to detail, unreal specs and way lighter price tag, since it doesn't say "Fender" on the head.)
My first mechanical watch was Seiko SNK803)) I've been wearing it every single day, only taking it off in the shower and sometimes in bed. There's something very sentimental in Seiko for me. I was planning on getting a Tudor BB58, i've spend a lot of time looking at this watch on the internet, but i felt this bug in the back of my head buzzing me that something is off. Now, BB58 is an outstanding watch really. It's just me and my weird 'simple man' hipster nature that doesn't accept this watch. And when i look at the Seiko SPB147 - this bug is gone. I know that i would put it on a 'tough' leather strap, and this strap would attract patina. And i absolutely love the fact that for everybody it's gonna be just another Seiko. Something that wouldnt gather likes, something that's completely far away from bling. Like a very high quality corduroy jacket - nothing fancy, but I KNOW that it's good.
I feel the same way about a Hamilton. Simple, elegant, no-nonsense 'just' a great watch. 'Simple man's watch'. I feel the same way about vintage watches. Watches from the time, when you worked hard and you were able to treat yourself with a nice watch. Maybe it's just my foolish hipster rebel against flex culture. Maybe i'm so old-fashioned, that i'm not only shouting on kids to get off my lawn, but rarely being on the lawn myself. For some very strange reason i have a warm feeling when looking at the font on the Seiko or Hamilton logo. I've never ever been to USA, but 'American Classic' Hamilton lineup sparks something in me.
Glad you've found your 'theme'. If you are happy wearing 5KX (and i can't see why you shouldn't be happy, to be honest) it's great. I assume it could feel extremely liberating to not climbing 'the ladder' and wear whatever makes you feel good.
And may i add, your jacket game is on point! I like the olive one with a square pattern. Nice!
Loved the story you shared and understand exactly where you’re coming from. Great pics of all the watches. Less is more sometimes.
I get it as well. I used to have just Rolex and Omega for the most part, and I found that I was more worried about getting robbed than actually just enjoying the watch. I sold the lot, and I have a few Prospex divers, a Seiko grand sport, a Red Star manual wind with a seagull movement, and a Stuhrling diver. I have only one Omega, the Deville chronograph in the top left of the picture. It is my main dress watch that I wear for special occasions or when I am wearing a suit. I have some more Prospex divers on my wishlist, but the only more expensive timepiece I want is an Omega Speedmaster. I am happy for the bulk of my collection to be Prospex divers because they are quality, tough robust watches that are reliable and I never have to worry that someone is going to mug me over them.
Epic 🌟
Great post! I like the pic of the diver. Technical point . His mask is properly hanging from his neck on land versus "Cowboy" as you see in movies. The name was given to actors who mostly did westerns before doing the Dive genre. Directors put the mask on their heads because it made the actor look cooler. "Cowboy" ruins the seal formed to the individual divers face. Official swim shorts issued once you Qual, a damned awesome tool Seiko and a dive knife. That's the life Brother!
I am a bit of a Seikofile. I wound up giving my Submariner to a friend who retired from the BUDS. He loves it. I love me some Seiko divers. Japan is a set of islands very connected to the ocean. I am super conflicted on their whaling and shark harvesting policies - i do love the country and the rest of the culture. Seiko knows divers . I love my SKX and Marine Master 300m. I recently gifted my GS diver to another friend (long story) Just think Prospex is where it's at. The LX is way more diver than the GS lineup ... if you want to go back to big $. Otherwise Prospex and my SKX are it for me
I actually think the Marinemaster is still a ton of $ for a tool diver. I am still hooked on the monoblock case and and can't part with it
This was awesome to read! I feel you! I fid the same thing. I have both rolex and omega, but i find myself wearing my seiko 5 and actually my invicta pro diver the most. Shoot me. But rolex and omega are over priced... seiko is king!
Great story progression here. Loved the lessons learned, your perspective, and glad to hear you truly found what works best for you! I find myself in a similar place often as I'm a younger collectors working my way through different pieces, styles, brands, and price points to find what truly fits me best.
The SKX range of watches will forever be a classic timepiece for so many. So rugged yet elegant at the same time (in a very utilitarian way of course). I'm mostly a bracelet guy, but recently had an SKX 173 built in a fully titanium case that is strap only. Crafter Blue is my go to SKX strap, but wanting to find some Nato's that fit it great as well. What NATO's do you recommend? You have some great pics and taste in watches man!
This was awesome to read! I feel you! I fid the same thing. I have both rolex and omega, but i find myself wearing my seiko 5 and actually my invicta pro diver the most. Shoot me. But rolex and omega are over priced... seiko is king!
No dis to the Seiko but Rolex has the CROWN lol.
No dis to the Seiko but Rolex has the CROWN lol.
I actually love the new perpetual old style.. so i myst agree with you. Rolex is king😉
Great story and love a tool watch. My dream watch was always the rolex explorer 2 but rolex wouldn't sell me one and I wasn't willing to pay the ridiculous second hand prices. Long story short, since buying a Sinn U50 that rolex desire has completely disappeared for me and my Sinn is a keeper.
Not Rolex you mean the AD.