Trying to find a dress-y watch under $1000

I am trying to find a white or cream-dial dressy watch for under $1000.

(Pictures aren't taken by me.)

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I have boiled it down to the vintage King Seiko 5625-7000, but I am open to suggestions. I really like the portions of the watch - 36-38mm case diameter, white dial, and short lug-to-lug. It does not have to be a King Seiko, but I really love the aesthetics of the watch. If you have a recommendation, please do share. 😀 

I have never had a vintage watch before so I have a few questions:

  1. How often are service intervals and what are the costs?
  2. Can I wash my hands without worrying about water damage?
  3. How do I authenticate the watch? Only trust a highly-reviewed seller?
  4. Does it cost more to maintain a vintage Seiko vs a modern Seiko?
  5. What are some things to be aware of when buying vintage?
Reply
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The dollar is incredibly strong at the moment.  You can find SCREAMING deals for King Seiko and Grand Seiko from Japan, as the exchange rate hasn't been this favorable in something like 40 decades.

https://www.gnomonwatches.com/products/king-seiko-mechanical-automatic-tobacco-brown-ref-sdks007?_pos=1&_sid=529fe0bee&_ss=r

https://www.chrono24.com/search/index.htm?countryIds=JP¤cyId=USD&dosearch=true&manufacturerIds=226&models=2636&sortorder=1&usedOrNew=new

For just a little more, you can get yourself a brand new King Seiko that you don't have to worry about getting wet.

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If pure white rather than cream coloured is ok, check out the CW C63 36, or 39mm...

Both come in at about $1K CAD on a strap with the voucher. 

Here is my 39mm C63 for reference. 

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Mr.Dee.Bater

The dollar is incredibly strong at the moment.  You can find SCREAMING deals for King Seiko and Grand Seiko from Japan, as the exchange rate hasn't been this favorable in something like 40 decades.

https://www.gnomonwatches.com/products/king-seiko-mechanical-automatic-tobacco-brown-ref-sdks007?_pos=1&_sid=529fe0bee&_ss=r

https://www.chrono24.com/search/index.htm?countryIds=JP¤cyId=USD&dosearch=true&manufacturerIds=226&models=2636&sortorder=1&usedOrNew=new

For just a little more, you can get yourself a brand new King Seiko that you don't have to worry about getting wet.

40 decades = 400 years

The exchange rate hasn't been this good since 1622. That's before the Sakoku Edict barring Europeans from entering Japan and the practice of Catholicism.

(New King Seiko look sweet.)

There are too many great vintage watches for that limit to list.

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How about a Baltic

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Aurelian

40 decades = 400 years

The exchange rate hasn't been this good since 1622. That's before the Sakoku Edict barring Europeans from entering Japan and the practice of Catholicism.

(New King Seiko look sweet.)

There are too many great vintage watches for that limit to list.

40 decades...  what's wrong with that?

Dumb Dumber GIFs | Tenor
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https://www.ashford.com/glycine-gl0333.html

Currently on sale for $400.

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Check the Orient Bambino. 

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The Seiko Presage line has a few that can be had under a grand…or the king seikos with the 6r31 movement, but maybe not under a grand though but maybe used one for under a grand

Www.seikoluxe.com

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Mr.Dee.Bater

The dollar is incredibly strong at the moment.  You can find SCREAMING deals for King Seiko and Grand Seiko from Japan, as the exchange rate hasn't been this favorable in something like 40 decades.

https://www.gnomonwatches.com/products/king-seiko-mechanical-automatic-tobacco-brown-ref-sdks007?_pos=1&_sid=529fe0bee&_ss=r

https://www.chrono24.com/search/index.htm?countryIds=JP¤cyId=USD&dosearch=true&manufacturerIds=226&models=2636&sortorder=1&usedOrNew=new

For just a little more, you can get yourself a brand new King Seiko that you don't have to worry about getting wet.

Saw this release a few months ago, not a fan of the long lugs 🥺

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KristianG

If pure white rather than cream coloured is ok, check out the CW C63 36, or 39mm...

Both come in at about $1K CAD on a strap with the voucher. 

Here is my 39mm C63 for reference. 

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Is it me or does this not feel dressy? I do like the C63 36mm though!

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Speedy77

How about a Baltic

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Yes, MR01 looks awesome!

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rleiro

Check the Orient Bambino. 

I like the Orient Bambino RA-AC0M03S https://chronometercheck.com/orient-bambino-38mm/

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A vintage King Seiko is a beautiful watch indeed.  Get one with the best dial you can find, some have marks around the edges.

A 36000 bph will need regular servicing if you wear it as your only watch but if it's just an occasional dress watch, that's less important.

If there is no pitting where the case back meets the case, then new or recently replaced crown and case seals will mean that you can have it splash proof. A good watch servicer will be able to perform a 3bar dry pressure test.

I might be wrong but I seem to remember that these can have a problem with the date wheel, where a small gear can have teeth missing from someone forcing a date change at the wrong time of day. The gear used to be impossible to get but I believe they are being reproduced now.

Factor in a service cost (about £200-£250 in your purchase price unless you buy it from someone you know who has had it serviced.

Lastly, if you can buy one from a collector. Do an Instagram hastag search. Then all the better or find a Seiko servicing specialist in your country and befriend them on the internet....they will tell you what to watch out for.

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Mr.Dee.Bater

The dollar is incredibly strong at the moment.  You can find SCREAMING deals for King Seiko and Grand Seiko from Japan, as the exchange rate hasn't been this favorable in something like 40 decades.

https://www.gnomonwatches.com/products/king-seiko-mechanical-automatic-tobacco-brown-ref-sdks007?_pos=1&_sid=529fe0bee&_ss=r

https://www.chrono24.com/search/index.htm?countryIds=JP¤cyId=USD&dosearch=true&manufacturerIds=226&models=2636&sortorder=1&usedOrNew=new

For just a little more, you can get yourself a brand new King Seiko that you don't have to worry about getting wet.

I played my cards wrong. I bought a Grand Seiko in March. I'm now in line for a US exclusive. 😕

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GS 5646-7000 and 7010 can also be found around that price point. Look for one with the “A“ version number as they have a better quality date wheel apparently. I am in a similar position to you, but I think I am going to end up with a cream dial modern presage for peace of mind for now. I may wait a few years before getting into GS or KS or even vintage myself. 

The cream dialed SPB241 might also be an option.  

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Best of luck!

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Velomax

There is currently a wait list for MR01 in all colors.

True. But more will be released in early October. 
 

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+1 for the 38mm bambino

also adding the tissot gentleman and vintage omega Seamaster for considerations if you haven’t taken a look at those already 

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I havent yet but I plan to buy a vintage speedmaster. For vintage my advice would be to do lots of research on the watch you want and look at the pictures thoroughly. google local watchshops in your area and call them for costs to authenticate and service the watch you want.

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Def a more GADA option, but can be dressier on a strap.

If you can forgive the 40mm size, the Ball Enterprise Fireman is an interesting choice for sure. Retails at $1000, but can be had for less. 

BALL Watch Fireman Enterprise | White
Welcome to BALL Watch - Enterprise
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tentenhands

+1 for the 38mm bambino

also adding the tissot gentleman and vintage omega Seamaster for considerations if you haven’t taken a look at those already 

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I havent yet but I plan to buy a vintage speedmaster. For vintage my advice would be to do lots of research on the watch you want and look at the pictures thoroughly. google local watchshops in your area and call them for costs to authenticate and service the watch you want.

Solid advice, makes sense. Good luck on your hunt!

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Speedy77

True. But more will be released in early October. 
 

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I spoke with someone their the other day and the MR01 will be full time in the catalog in Oct. So pumped!!!

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This is a great topic. I've been on a search for a similar "short of grail" dress watch. I know you said something in white, but there's no denying this vintage 1964 Omega Geneve  131.019 is as elegant as one can get. Its up on eBay for less than $600 USD. 

1964' ORIGINAL OMEGA GENEVE 131.019 MANUAL WIND BLUE DIAL ST STEEL GENTS WATCH

Although they have a cream dial with rose gold case version of this watch, the Seiko SSA343 Cocktail Time 'Skydiving' with an ice blue dial caught my eye and can be had for less than $500. In fact I would check out their entire Cocktail Time lineup for some possible candidates.

Seiko Presage "Cocktail Time" SSA343j1 Review & Complete Guide - Millenary  Watches
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You should be able to find a pre-owned Sarb for well under that price if you spend some time looking for one and they are great!

Otherwise these are quite nice and available in 36 mm =) https://www.venezianico.com/pages/redentore

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Aaronwilder13

I spoke with someone their the other day and the MR01 will be full time in the catalog in Oct. So pumped!!!

Awesome!!! Thanks for the info!!!

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Couple of nice watches from Archimede - the 1950 and the Klassik 200 (which is slightly less dressy but has hardened steel case and 200m water resistance) (photos from their site)
https://www.archimede-watches.com/klassik/klassik-200/ 

I have the Klassik 200 and it's a very pleasing watch for daily wearing.
 

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insaner

Are you referring to the SARX055? I am thinking about buying that watch too. Vintage scares me because I'm so pessimistic 😂

That is also on my list...just not sure about the best source to grab a NIB one

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I think all of the Seiko suggestions on this thread are quite appropriate, but have you looked at Frederique Constant?

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SurferJohn

I think all of the Seiko suggestions on this thread are quite appropriate, but have you looked at Frederique Constant?

I have not, any models in particular?

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There are many to choose from, here is just one example:

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https://www.ebay.com/itm/274825601004?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=hrJs1QFVSO2&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

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To my eyes, nothing beats the King seiko high beat you presented. Not only you have a very recognizable and accomplished design, but also a vintage piece that made Seiko's history (that will likely keep its value).

Not sure why it is a high beat, as it runs 28,800 bph, but great nonetheless.

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Tunokies

A vintage King Seiko is a beautiful watch indeed.  Get one with the best dial you can find, some have marks around the edges.

A 36000 bph will need regular servicing if you wear it as your only watch but if it's just an occasional dress watch, that's less important.

If there is no pitting where the case back meets the case, then new or recently replaced crown and case seals will mean that you can have it splash proof. A good watch servicer will be able to perform a 3bar dry pressure test.

I might be wrong but I seem to remember that these can have a problem with the date wheel, where a small gear can have teeth missing from someone forcing a date change at the wrong time of day. The gear used to be impossible to get but I believe they are being reproduced now.

Factor in a service cost (about £200-£250 in your purchase price unless you buy it from someone you know who has had it serviced.

Lastly, if you can buy one from a collector. Do an Instagram hastag search. Then all the better or find a Seiko servicing specialist in your country and befriend them on the internet....they will tell you what to watch out for.

Yes the 56 series have a plastic date wheel apart from the A series where it was made of metal