Pforzheim vs Glashütte, two centers of German watchmaking

When watch enthusiasts think of German watches today, the first Location name that comes to mind is Glashütte, which goes without saying. After all, Glashütte, with just under 7,000 inhabitants, is home to the majority of the most spectacular German luxury watches, which often proudly bear the name of the town in their brand names. When you think of Glashütte, you think of A. Lange und Söhne, Glashütte Original, Nomos, Union Glashütte.

On the other hand, few know the city of Pforzheim (“P-ForTZ-Haym” :-) ), although historically it had contact with the watch industry earlier. Pforzheim and Glashütte stand in an extremely strong contrast to each other. On the one hand, the small town of Glashütte in the far east of the country, with its luxurious handicraft manufactories. On the other hand, Pforzheim, in the extreme southwest of the country, which with its 120,000 inhabitants in the Black Forest is considered an big industrial city and with its production accounts for 70% of German jewelery production, where you can find watch brands that are affordable for most people.

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The development in Pforzheim was very unusual. In 1767 Margrave Karl-Friedrich founded the watch industry in Pforzheim with the first watch production in an orphanage in order to be able to offer the orphans professional training and employment. This was done in collaboration with Swiss watchmakers and watch manufacturers. However, southwestern Germany had come into contact with watchmaking even earlier. In particular, the areas that bordered Switzerland, such as the town of Schwenningen. Especially church clocks and cuckoo clocks. The Black Forest was therefore also synonymous with watchmaking. It was not until a little later in the 19th century that clockmaking began in Saxony, producing “Black Forest clocks”.

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Pforzheim has become an industrial center of the Black Forest over the years. A sad part of their history is the 2nd World War. The city's industrial importance made Pforzheim the target of one of the most intense bombings. 98% of the city was destroyed by the widespread bombardment with incendiary bombs. 30% of the population lost their lives within 20 Minutes. The clock industry was also allmost disappeared. The factories were destroyed, many workers died or fled. Everything had to be started anew. By 1970, the Pforzheim watchmaking industry once again had 30,000 workers.

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The Pforzheim manufacturers concentrated primarily on the production of watches in large numbers. In addition to some traditional brands such as Laco, Stowa and Circula, which still exist today, there are also rather unknown manufacturers who offer private label watches.

Because unlike Glashütte, suppliers and manufacturers from almost the entire value chain are based in Pforzheim. Like Ickler for cases and hands, Vollmer for bracelets.

Worse than World War II, economically, was the Quartz Crisis. The Pforzheim watch manufacturers could not compete with the Japanese counterparts and their prices. Numerous watch brands and watch parts manufacturers disappeared. To date, the industry still didn't recovered from it.

However, some manufacturers have survived or have been revived in recent years, such as Laco and Stowa.

Nevertheless, some things have remained the same. The Pforzheim watch brands still offer affordable and high-quality watches today.

If you look beyond the city limits of Pforzheim, you will find other watch brands such as Junghans, Hanhart and Lehmann.

Fun fact:

However, there is one peculiarity that is unknown to most. Although Chopard is a Swiss brand, but it is owned by the Pforzheim Scheufele family of jewelry and watch manufacturers since the 1960s, which makes Chopard a kind of a Pforzheim brand.

Here I have listed some notable brands from Pforzheim and the Black Forest.

Pforzheim:

Watches:

  • Archimedes

  • Aristo

  • Circular

  • Defakto

  • Jean Marcel

  • Laco

  • Limes

  • Stowa

Parts manufacturer:

  • Benzinger (Decorations)

  • Vollmer (bracelet and case)

  • RP-Uhrgehäuse (cases)

  • Ickler (Cases,Hands and Watches, owner of the Brands Lines and Archimede)

Black Forest:

  • Hanhart

  • Junghans

  • Lehmann

Here are some Pictures of each brands:

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Reply
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Excellent introduction to Pforzheim. In the vintage world you will often see PUW movements. These were made in Pforzheim from the 1930's until about 1990 when Swatch bought them. They tend to be accurate and robust movements.

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Danke shoen.

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Aurelian

Excellent introduction to Pforzheim. In the vintage world you will often see PUW movements. These were made in Pforzheim from the 1930's until about 1990 when Swatch bought them. They tend to be accurate and robust movements.

Yes. Actually that was the second hit after the Quartz crisis. Since them there is no real movement industry remained in germany. The affordable brands under 1K using Miyota today, the other ETA, Selita etc. I still hoping that the german industry will create an own movement manufacturer again (for massproduction)

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MrPsionic

Danke shoen.

Bitte schön.

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Thanks for this, it's a very interesting read. I have a Laco, a Stowa and a Junghans, and have my eye on an Archimede (the Flieger 200). As you say, the Pforzheim manufacturers offer great value. However, I also enjoy the minimalist and functional designs that they produce. I wasn't aware of Lehmann, so I'll check them out.

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WatchBee

Thanks for this, it's a very interesting read. I have a Laco, a Stowa and a Junghans, and have my eye on an Archimede (the Flieger 200). As you say, the Pforzheim manufacturers offer great value. However, I also enjoy the minimalist and functional designs that they produce. I wasn't aware of Lehmann, so I'll check them out.

Thank you. I'm glad you enjoyed it. Junghans was my first watch which I've bought with my first job during my study. So it has a special place in my growing collection.

Definetly check Lehmann.

This may be the bes but most unnoticed newcommer watch company in Germany.

They are frounded in 2011 by a Watch enthusiast but as a real "manufacturer" with a whole vertical production.

They do their own:

  • Cases

  • Dials

  • Hands

  • Movements....and damn....what awesome movements

So Mr. Lehman is really not kidding.

The company was founded in Schramberg a small town in the Black Forest where Junghans is located. But now they moved to they neighboring village of Hardt in their new Manufacture buildings.

Don't be schocked by the prices.

Their "cheapest" watch starts from 6,250 Euro.

But the quality and the inhouse manufacturing behind is insane.

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I’ve got both cities covered with a GO and a Stowa.

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Uhrologe

Thank you. I'm glad you enjoyed it. Junghans was my first watch which I've bought with my first job during my study. So it has a special place in my growing collection.

Definetly check Lehmann.

This may be the bes but most unnoticed newcommer watch company in Germany.

They are frounded in 2011 by a Watch enthusiast but as a real "manufacturer" with a whole vertical production.

They do their own:

  • Cases

  • Dials

  • Hands

  • Movements....and damn....what awesome movements

So Mr. Lehman is really not kidding.

The company was founded in Schramberg a small town in the Black Forest where Junghans is located. But now they moved to they neighboring village of Hardt in their new Manufacture buildings.

Don't be schocked by the prices.

Their "cheapest" watch starts from 6,250 Euro.

But the quality and the inhouse manufacturing behind is insane.

Thanks - Lehmann is one for the "long term" list then!

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Davemcc

I’ve got both cities covered with a GO and a Stowa.

Both great choises!

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Thanks for the good read. I just recently read a longer article about the history of Glashütte and Pforzheim and how the history of the watch industry changed over time. It is in german but it also has an interesting map with all the german watchmakers.

https://chrononautix.com/uhren-deutschland-hersteller-karte/

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Thanks for putting this together for us. 🤝

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romaker

Thanks for the good read. I just recently read a longer article about the history of Glashütte and Pforzheim and how the history of the watch industry changed over time. It is in german but it also has an interesting map with all the german watchmakers.

https://chrononautix.com/uhren-deutschland-hersteller-karte/

I don't know the article but I know this Map. Even the Map is not hundert percent completed I guess. But it is very helpful and gaves a great overview about the most important watch companies. I will check later their article.

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Pallet_Fork

Thanks for putting this together for us. 🤝

Thanks for reading :-). I'm gla it helped you.

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That was great to read. Actually when I first read about vintage Glashütte watches just a few weeks ago I was really suprised that the city is so far from the Swiss-German border. God to know about the other historical german watchmaking centre.

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spacemanspiff

That was great to read. Actually when I first read about vintage Glashütte watches just a few weeks ago I was really suprised that the city is so far from the Swiss-German border. God to know about the other historical german watchmaking centre.

Thank you very much. I'm glad you enjoyed it.

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KnK0909

Thank you!!! Even though I'm a huge fan of German brands and own Laco & Stowa watches, I didn't know much about Pforzheim much. I learned a lot from this!

Thank you too. I'm happy it could help you.

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wsjp007

Danke, @Uhrologe . Sehr interessant! I recently acquired my first German watch, a Sinn, and I noticed they are based out of Frankfurt. Is Frankfurt known for any other watchmaking besides Sinn? When I look at a map I can see Frankfurt is close to Pforzheim/Schwarzwald, but not quite in the same region. I have also started to see a newer brand pop up on my radar: Sternglas of Hamburg. Any info on them by chance?

Yes, Frankfurt is actually not a traditional watch manufacture city in historic way. It became a small hub in recent decades. Maybe there have been some before the 2nd WW or the Quartz Crisis. But in the recent history Sinn started a very serious journey. They also aquired the swiss brand Guinand and located them to Frankfurt. Hacher Uhren is a small brand, his founder was an employee of Sinn. In the suburbs of Frankfurt in Königstein is Botta-Design. They are smaller brand but know for their one hander watches.

In the outskirts of Frankfurt is Alexander Shorokhoff. A very expresionistic designer. Not every design is by my taste. But some of he's watches are really nice and great decorated. I don't know if he is genius or insane....or something in the middle. But intersting.

Sternglas is quite new as you noticed. But actually they are now by surprise several years now on the market and quite successfull. So it's not the typical type of a kick starter brand. I think we can say that they are settled now in the germen watch industry. Sternglas itself do actually only the design. The manufacturing and ensembling is made partly in China and Germany. They don't tell the name of the companies, but I can expect it's Dugena in Germany who are manufacturing some of their watches. But they show very transparent their vallue chain on their website. I dind't hold a Sternglas in my hand yet, but I think they offer great watches for the money.

I also wrote about Sternglas in my article Part2 German watch brands

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Chunghauphoto

Thanks for the article - lots of great information for me explore!

Thank you too. I'm glad it helped you.

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Thanks for sharing this! Very informative. One more fact to add to the story: a couple of years ago, Glashüttte Original (based in, yes, Glashütte) purchased the dial manufactory Th. Müller based in Pforzheim, in order to integrate that part of the manufacturing process as well.

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Icarium

Thanks for sharing this! Very informative. One more fact to add to the story: a couple of years ago, Glashüttte Original (based in, yes, Glashütte) purchased the dial manufactory Th. Müller based in Pforzheim, in order to integrate that part of the manufacturing process as well.

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Yes, that's right. Thank you

But as I remember GO moved the dial producer to Glashütte. That was the last Dial producer in Pforzheim as I know.

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Is Fricker still operating? I thought they closed shop in 2019 or something like that?

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Thank you very much for sharing and making more people aware about Pforzheim! Being born in Pforzheim it wasn't always great, because the city isn't exactly beautiful (due to the war), but with time I grew more and more proud of calling it my hometown. The reason is mostly the rich watch history. I wrote an article myself a couple of years back: https://circulawatches.com/en/made-in-germany-watch-production-in-germany-and-pforzheim/

It contains mainly the same information, some more background to Glashütte as well.

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TalkingDugong

Is Fricker still operating? I thought they closed shop in 2019 or something like that?

Yes, you are totally right. I wasn't aware of that. As I see they closes end of 2019. What a pain. I removed it from the list.

Sadly the diversity of the watch supplier industry in Pforzheim is getting less and less every year.

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circula

Thank you very much for sharing and making more people aware about Pforzheim! Being born in Pforzheim it wasn't always great, because the city isn't exactly beautiful (due to the war), but with time I grew more and more proud of calling it my hometown. The reason is mostly the rich watch history. I wrote an article myself a couple of years back: https://circulawatches.com/en/made-in-germany-watch-production-in-germany-and-pforzheim/

It contains mainly the same information, some more background to Glashütte as well.

Hi Cornelius,

I was born and raised south of Pforzheim, so I grew up with the myths of the northern neighbor. And yes, I can't deny. The architectural heritage of the post-war period is nothing to envy to Pforzheim. :-)

Anyway, Pforzheim, as you said, has a lot of history and is at least located at the edge of one of the most beautiful landscapes of germany. After living in different german locations I can tell you there is nothing more boring the human eye than a flat terrain without forests.

And the history of the past is the present of today, especially in the watch industry. Which gives in my eyes an important role to the Pforzheim watch manufacturers like Circula to keep the present history in Pforzheim alive. Without the watch and jewelery industry, Pforzheim would be just an average german city somewhere at the Black Forest :-).

Thanks for the hint. I just red your interesting article. Yes, it is quite similiar but more in detail than mine. We also used the same copper engraving cover. :-)

Cheers

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Uhrologe

Yes, you are totally right. I wasn't aware of that. As I see they closes end of 2019. What a pain. I removed it from the list.

Sadly the diversity of the watch supplier industry in Pforzheim is getting less and less every year.

The remainders were bought by RP-Uhrengehäuse, as I recall. They are making cases for Glashütte Original. Maybe worth adding to the list instead.

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Uhrologe

Hi Cornelius,

I was born and raised south of Pforzheim, so I grew up with the myths of the northern neighbor. And yes, I can't deny. The architectural heritage of the post-war period is nothing to envy to Pforzheim. :-)

Anyway, Pforzheim, as you said, has a lot of history and is at least located at the edge of one of the most beautiful landscapes of germany. After living in different german locations I can tell you there is nothing more boring the human eye than a flat terrain without forests.

And the history of the past is the present of today, especially in the watch industry. Which gives in my eyes an important role to the Pforzheim watch manufacturers like Circula to keep the present history in Pforzheim alive. Without the watch and jewelery industry, Pforzheim would be just an average german city somewhere at the Black Forest :-).

Thanks for the hint. I just red your interesting article. Yes, it is quite similiar but more in detail than mine. We also used the same copper engraving cover. :-)

Cheers

I absolutely agree with you and I am happy there are also some younger ones into watches to keep the tradition going in Pforzheim. For example Lisa Ickler from Archimede is my age as well and very talented.

As to the flat terrain without forest, that is very true for me as well. But my wife is Dutch and she feels the complete opposite. She values the wideness of the terrain...

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circula

I absolutely agree with you and I am happy there are also some younger ones into watches to keep the tradition going in Pforzheim. For example Lisa Ickler from Archimede is my age as well and very talented.

As to the flat terrain without forest, that is very true for me as well. But my wife is Dutch and she feels the complete opposite. She values the wideness of the terrain...

Yea, Ickler does a great job with it's Brands Archimede and Limes (I have an eye on the Chronograph Vollkalender). In generally I like the fresh ideas that the new generations bring into the family business. That's why I have good hopes and expectations for the future of the watch brands of Pforzheim.

Ah ok. So with a Dutch wife you both have to arrange with each others landscapes :-).

My wife is from Korea, so totally hill landscape, reminding on the Black Forest and a nation of hikers :-) ... but now we are living in Frankfurt :-)

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This post has been very helpful, thanks!

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Pallet_Fork

This post has been very helpful, thanks!

Thanks Eric, I'm glad it helped you.

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I really do appreciate that thorough synopsis of German watchmaking. I never knew that there was any major watchmaking center outside of Glashütte in lower Saxony. I just acquired my first German watch and I’m so impressed with the finishing quality. (Glashütte Original PanoMaticInverse) It amazes me that a town of 7,300 people is able to produce so many haute horology timepieces. I love how they run the watchmaking school and train toolmakers as well as watchmakers. The fact that they produce 95% of their components is really insane for such a small company.

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