Soliciting Buying Advice: Affordable Mechanical Chronograph
Anybody know any good mechanical chronos under $500? I originally wanted a Lorier Gemini in the reverse panda colorway, but I missed out on that one and the current Gemini only comes in regular panda colors.
The ideal chronograph for me would have a:
• Mechanical movement
• Tachymeter bezel
• Black dial
• Original design
• Cost under $500
Does such a watch exist? It seems like it should, like it easily could, but I can't find one for sale. What should I be looking for?
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[ thuh chah-nuh-ney-ter ] \ ðə ʧɑnəˌneɪtər \
Baltimore, MD
Member since
Last active: 1 week ago
2.60” / 6.60 cm
I dont know if you would consider this original design but it has everything else you are looking for.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004743894481.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.1000060.2.3cac51d7N0pxCP&gps-id=pcDetailBottomMoreThisSeller&scm=1007.13339.291025.0&scm_id=1007.13339.291025.0&scm-url=1007.13339.291025.0&pvid=7de0f982-b2fe-4453-a1c3-6a209683b2a7&_t=gps-id:pcDetailBottomMoreThisSeller,scm-url:1007.13339.291025.0,pvid:7de0f982-b2fe-4453-a1c3-6a209683b2a7,tpp_buckets:668%232846%238110%231995&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22sku_id%22%3A%2212000030533329724%22%2C%22sceneId%22%3A%223339%22%7D&pdp_npi=2%40dis%21RSD%2140637.29%2119505.9%21%21%21%21%21%400b0a133316745031914261326e9603%2112000030533329724%21rec
If you’re okay going second hand you can get a Tissot PRC200
There’s a few for sale on Chrono24 and other second hand places.
Given that set of requirements, you're talking something seagull st19 manual wind powered. I don't know of another mechanical caliber in the price range.
The original seagull 1963 ($320ish) -truly original design, based off a 1960s Chinese air force model
Hemel Airfoil - $500ish - same movement as above though I am told it is regulated and QC'd
San Martin 62Mas Chrono ($400ish) - same st19 movement. Generally a very competent watch but the movement can be tricky because it's not regulated.
I have no experience with the brand, so please don't consider this as a recommendation, but Haim has an awesome looking ST19 based chrono with black dial for $525 USD.
https://haimwatchco.com/product/haim-legacy-se/
Basically you’ll be looking at watches with an ST19 movement - I think it’s the only movement that can hit your ideal price point for a watch. Several microbrands using it… many have already been suggested here. Take a look at Sugess - they make several with the same panda stylings as the Lorier.
So many great suggestions, thank you! Now I've got some delightful research to do.
All right I got a new question now: Is this an homage?
I think it's kinda hot, but I'm not into wearing a fake version of somebody else's design on my wrist.
Thank you all again btw for pointing me in the right direction to start my research.
All right I got a new question now: Is this an homage?
I think it's kinda hot, but I'm not into wearing a fake version of somebody else's design on my wrist.
Thank you all again btw for pointing me in the right direction to start my research.
It's a mishmash of styles but probably the DNA is most closely related to the first Omega Speedmaster from 1957 (the Speedmaster broad arrow).
No tachymeter but a pulsation. otherwise the midnight version of the Legacy SE seems to tick your boxes, 450 usd if you use code mad75 😁
https://haimwatchco.com/product/haim-legacy-se/
check merkur watches based on seagull movement.
At that price range you are looking at buying a Seagull manual movement.
When purchasing a Seagull...vaya con dios.
Unless you purchase from a brand like Baltic, Hemel, Landeron, Lorier, etc. who have actually tested and regulated the movement, you are risking disappointment.
Don't take my word for it...Federico recently said the same thing in one of his YT videos. I have been saying this for years based on my experience purchasing numerous chronographs with Seagull movements.
I will only purchase now if it has been tested and regulated. That just doesn't happen with Aliexpress brands...so beware those tempting Aliexpress Seagull-based chronographs (unless you like burning a couple of hundred dollar bills).
Perhaps this Merkur, or this Red Star? Not sure how original the design is of either, but with your list of criteria you are getting awfully close to "I want a watch that totally looks like watch X but is entirely original". That's not going to work: if too many boxes of watch X are ticked companies realize you really want watch X and then offer you a clone of it. I reckon the $500 budget is your main thing. With mechanical chronos that limits you (as others have said) to the Seagull ST1901 movement. Head over to AliExpress, ditch your other criteria, look for mechanical chronos and see what takes your fancy.
Rather than get some cheap rinky dink thing from a nothing kind of brand, I'd suggest setting your sights higher. Whether than means getting a used watch (per one of the earlier suggestions), or whether it means saving for another 6 months? 12 months? 18 months? Forego the instant gratification and get something great, first time, from a brand with proper heritage that you can look at on your wrist, five years from now, and say, "That was the right choice..." rather than, "God, what on earth was I thinking, buying that..."
I will say with chronographs I am not a huge fan of what I have seen of the st19 movement, they tend to be quirky and not what I would call reliable. You can jump up in price into the 1000-3000 dollar range and get something pretty nice with good movements in them that will last you a lot longer.
That being said, below the 500 dollar range consider buying a nice quartz chronograph, I have nothing against quartz and own a Dan Henry 1945 that I regularly wear.
https://danhenrywatches.com/products/1945-wwii-chronograph
Its a little more expensive but I think the Seiko Prospex Speedtimer 39mm in this watch is sweet, Yes its quartz but it is also solar has some Daytona vibes and is an all around good looking nice offering from Seiko... and I aint even a Seiko fanboy but that watch is nice. (link below)
https://www.amazon.com/Prospex-Speedtimer-Chronograph-Sports-SSC813P1/dp/B09QPK4MPV/ref=asc_df_B09QPK4MPV/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312150055906&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2392000900808830755&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9028554&hvtargid=pla-1652937253629&psc=1
Buliva lunar pilot I know it's quarts but an amazing watch with an amazing story, sea-gull 1963, matthey tissot to name a few.
Rather than get some cheap rinky dink thing from a nothing kind of brand, I'd suggest setting your sights higher. Whether than means getting a used watch (per one of the earlier suggestions), or whether it means saving for another 6 months? 12 months? 18 months? Forego the instant gratification and get something great, first time, from a brand with proper heritage that you can look at on your wrist, five years from now, and say, "That was the right choice..." rather than, "God, what on earth was I thinking, buying that..."
@TheCianinator, This is great advice and I wish I had been wise enough to follow it when I had "the fever".
But, we all have to follow where our heart leads and acquire the experience & knowledge in our own time & in our own ways.
Mech chrono's that are not swiss and expensive could be a minefield for you. The servicing on all of them costs what you want to buy it for. Stick to quartz from ETA, Ronda or Seiko. I built my chrono with Seiko and if it ever quits I stuff in another VK63 for $30.00.
@TheCianinator, This is great advice and I wish I had been wise enough to follow it when I had "the fever".
But, we all have to follow where our heart leads and acquire the experience & knowledge in our own time & in our own ways.
That's just it. I've been there, I know what it's like to want something NOW and think, "Right, what can $500 get me?!" because the itch needed to be scratched right away. And perhaps in some ways, it's because I've bought and experienced a lot of watches (rinky dink cheapies, homages, entry level Seikos, Swiss quartz, the list goes on and on), that I can now sit back, beat down the urge to buy every second or third watch that passes under my gaze, and just concentrate on quality, from heritage brands. My watch box might be half the size it was, but when I look at what's in it, I just get a warm glow and think, banger... banger... banger... banger as I look from watch to watch. But it took time to get to this.
My hope is that someone might read this advice and, while they might not shake the urge to scratch the itch, it will at least plant a seed - a lot sooner than the seed was planted in my mind - that there's a better, more long-term way of doing things that's actually cheaper and more satisfying in the long run.
That's just it. I've been there, I know what it's like to want something NOW and think, "Right, what can $500 get me?!" because the itch needed to be scratched right away. And perhaps in some ways, it's because I've bought and experienced a lot of watches (rinky dink cheapies, homages, entry level Seikos, Swiss quartz, the list goes on and on), that I can now sit back, beat down the urge to buy every second or third watch that passes under my gaze, and just concentrate on quality, from heritage brands. My watch box might be half the size it was, but when I look at what's in it, I just get a warm glow and think, banger... banger... banger... banger as I look from watch to watch. But it took time to get to this.
My hope is that someone might read this advice and, while they might not shake the urge to scratch the itch, it will at least plant a seed - a lot sooner than the seed was planted in my mind - that there's a better, more long-term way of doing things that's actually cheaper and more satisfying in the long run.
Best advice ever!
We could all fill a thread with images of the "mistakes" we made while enthusiastic for the next watch dopamine hit.
I think we can use the term meant for something else to describe these watches...they are "Coyote Bait"...at first they look really attractive and we go for it...then we want to chew off our wrist when we have had them on it to get rid of the watch.
Spot on. It really can be a dopamine hit. I knew I had it bad one time when I dropped $3000 on a watch, which would be arriving 48hrs later, or thereabouts. And what was the first thing I did after ordering? Went on YouTube and started thinking about the next watch. I stopped myself and thought, this isn't normal. Wait for that expensive watch to actually arrive. Enjoy it. Think about your next move some more over the months ahead, not right now. You're being nutty. I also love the Coyote Bait term. It's real!
Perhaps this Merkur, or this Red Star? Not sure how original the design is of either, but with your list of criteria you are getting awfully close to "I want a watch that totally looks like watch X but is entirely original". That's not going to work: if too many boxes of watch X are ticked companies realize you really want watch X and then offer you a clone of it. I reckon the $500 budget is your main thing. With mechanical chronos that limits you (as others have said) to the Seagull ST1901 movement. Head over to AliExpress, ditch your other criteria, look for mechanical chronos and see what takes your fancy.
Mate that merkur pilot is on my to buy list now thank you