SOTC: Microbrand edition
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Eclectic collector: Swiss…Japanese…cheap…not cheap…big name brand...micro brand…mechanical…automatic…handwinder…quartz…homage…luxury…in-house…workhorse…it’s all good!
Sooner Nation
Member since
Last active: 8 hrs ago
6.75” / 17.15 cm
Nice 4 watch collection. I keep the white Everest version of that Smiths on my watch list.
Nice 4 watch collection. I keep the white Everest version of that Smiths on my watch list.
When they go on sale they go out of stock in minutes. It took me a few attempts before I snagged it. They're well made watches, but Smiths definitely puts the 'micro" in microbrand!
That christopher ward is a stunner
Can Christopher Ward still be considered a microbrand?
When they go on sale they go out of stock in minutes. It took me a few attempts before I snagged it. They're well made watches, but Smiths definitely puts the 'micro" in microbrand!
Are they truly micro though? They have been around since the 1800s and were once owned by a massive FTSE 100 company. I beleive they got sold off, but I see them more like Fortis in that they have been around for a century, seem to operate like a micro brand, but have a history that puts them out of the realm of micro.
Are they truly micro though? They have been around since the 1800s and were once owned by a massive FTSE 100 company. I beleive they got sold off, but I see them more like Fortis in that they have been around for a century, seem to operate like a micro brand, but have a history that puts them out of the realm of micro.
Smiths was indeed a major brand. Emphasis on was, up until the 1970s. The quartz crisis drove the company out of business. The rights to the name Smiths (and a few other defunct brands) was purchased by Time Factors in the late 1990s. There is no real connection to the Smiths of old others than the name. Near as I can tell, Time Factors is essentially a one man operation. All my contact for the purchase was with Time Factors owner, Eddie Platts. The dial may say Great Britain but the are manufactured in Hong Kong with Japanese Miyota movements, shipped to the UK, then sold in small batches online. And they sell out fast, so,if you miss the buying window your stuck waiting for a long while. They ship from what appears to be a residential home address. Can’t get much more micro than that! They do have a loyal fan base though, and the Everest is probably the best Explorer ref 1016 homage you can find.
https://www.timefactors.com/
Can Christopher Ward still be considered a microbrand?
That’s a good question. They certainly started out as a microbrand. So at what point does a microbrand transition to not being micro? I dunno 🤷♂️
That’s a good question. They certainly started out as a microbrand. So at what point does a microbrand transition to not being micro? I dunno 🤷♂️
This will be a key question going into March. Lots of debate.
That’s a good question. They certainly started out as a microbrand. So at what point does a microbrand transition to not being micro? I dunno 🤷♂️
I don't think they are anymore! I‘d say they’re an independent brand. They’ve been around for over 15 years, have an extensive catalog and most of their watches are continuously in stock. Kinda like Steinhart! I had a “C36” for a bit and it was a lovely, lovely watch.
nice collection, i want that everest too.
Are they truly micro though? They have been around since the 1800s and were once owned by a massive FTSE 100 company. I beleive they got sold off, but I see them more like Fortis in that they have been around for a century, seem to operate like a micro brand, but have a history that puts them out of the realm of micro.
The name has been around, true. The current company that own it? Not so much.
I don't think they are anymore! I‘d say they’re an independent brand. They’ve been around for over 15 years, have an extensive catalog and most of their watches are continuously in stock. Kinda like Steinhart! I had a “C36” for a bit and it was a lovely, lovely watch.
I hear ya but I’m not sure the independent label makes any more sense. Rolex is independent but makes a million watches a year. Hardly micro! Meanwhile, Roger Dubios makes less watches per year than Christopher Ward but is owned by the Richemont Group. Micro, but not exactly independent since they do have to answer to “corporate “ at some level.
To me, micro is a function of production numbers and sales/market share. CW produced and sold ~25,000 watches in 2020 (per the Internet). Which is a lot compared to many microbrands, but still tiny faction of the ~20 million Swiss watches produced every year. Never mind the total worldwide watch market!
I don't think they are anymore! I‘d say they’re an independent brand. They’ve been around for over 15 years, have an extensive catalog and most of their watches are continuously in stock. Kinda like Steinhart! I had a “C36” for a bit and it was a lovely, lovely watch.
Only had the “C36” a week so still in the honeymoon phase! It and the C63 GMT are the watches that really put CW on my radar. I returned a C63 GMT white dial a couple of days ago…the GMT hand was out of synch. Such a pity, it was a lovely watch too. When I see they’re shipping the C63 GMT green dial with the twin flag logo on the dial rather than the Christopher Ward logo I’ll be mighty tempted!
I asked the same question and was told it was coming but only after the old stock was depleted. They will post updated photos of the green dial with the twin flag logo once they are available. No idea when that will happen so just have to check the web page to see.
How would you compare The Monta to the Chris Ward?
How would you compare The Monta to the Chris Ward?
Monta is head and shoulders above the CW. Better finishing, better bracelet, better clasp. Way better bracelet and clasp actually, but then Monta's bracelet and adjustable clasp easily holds its own against Tudor and Omega bracelet/clasps. Monta has the better movement (SW300 vs SW200) too. If CW adjusts their movements they don't say, while Monta adjusts their movements to +5/-5 spd. The Monta Triumph is running about -1.8spd in the year and a half I've had it, while the CW is running about +7.6spd for the past 12 days since I got it (worn all or part of the day every day). Meanwhile my wife's Monta Noble Turquoise blue dial, her daily driver, is running about +1.4spd over the past three months she's had it.
Of course, Monta is more expensive too so there's that. Despite Monta being a relative newcomer microbrand compared to the more established - and higher production volume - CW, I consider Monta to be a step above CW. That said, I'm happy with and enjoy both.
This is really really helpful detail, so I thank you for taking the time. I have a brand new CW Trident 300 Pro and I love it, but am looking for something in the Oyster Perpetual / Aquaterra style but at a price I’m more comfortable with. The Monta Noble with the blue dial has really caught my eye and in some ways I like it better than the aquaterra. Again, appreciate the thoughtful response!
This is really really helpful detail, so I thank you for taking the time. I have a brand new CW Trident 300 Pro and I love it, but am looking for something in the Oyster Perpetual / Aquaterra style but at a price I’m more comfortable with. The Monta Noble with the blue dial has really caught my eye and in some ways I like it better than the aquaterra. Again, appreciate the thoughtful response!
I picked up my Triumph in St Louis MO at the Monta corporate office. Got to meet the company president, Justin, talk watches, and review their entire line up. Left with the Triumph on my wrist, but I can vouch for the blue dial Noble...it is an absolute stunner! I predict you will not regret getting one. And I might just get one myself too someday!
I know this is kind of an old thread, but how will you compare the Ginault to the Monta? And finally among the 4 in your collection, do you have a favorite?
I know this is kind of an old thread, but how will you compare the Ginault to the Monta? And finally among the 4 in your collection, do you have a favorite?
They are both excellent watches that get a lot of wear time. In terms of:
Finishing: they are both very, very well finished.
Accuracy: both run in COSC standards. The Ocean Rover was purchased in late 2018 and the ETA 2824 clone movement is one of my most accurate watches even now, 4+ years on. I believe Ginault is now exclusively SW200 powered, which they regulate to run in COSC. They provide an accuracy "chronometer" certificate with each watch, which is rare for any brand these days. Montas are regulated to +/-5 spd.
Comfort: the Monta bracelet is the single most comfortable steel bracelet I've ever worn and their microadjust clasp is great. The Ocean Rover bracelet and clasp is a very good Oyster bracelet and glidelock facsimile. Easy to get a comfortable fit on both.
Cost: the Monta is pricier, but not by a massive amount.
Design. the Ocean Rover is an unapologetic homage. I see it as a true homage to the Sub as Rolex never made a model quite like this one - it is essentially a Sub greatest hits mashup: 5-digit case and aluminum bezel (the ORII has a ceramic bezel), 4-digit sword hands, 6-digit maxi dial and bracelet/clasp, with a red Yachtmaster inspired second hand. If you're good with an homage watch, the Ocean Rover will give you the feel of a Sub without the price tag and is a massive step up from Steinhart/Squale/etc. On the other hand, if you want an original design Monta has its own design language. The rhodium plated handset and dial markers are razor sharp and easy to read.
Which of the four is my favorite? If you painted me into a corner, I'd go with the Monta. It's the most comfortable and versatile of the bunch.
This is a really nice looking collection here! Big Monta fan, but love seeing Warn, Smiths, and Ginault in the mix. I'm really wanting to get my hands on another CW or Monta at the moment. The Triumph is the top of the list actually!