Chronotriggered destroys watches… #1

Me again (and cue most of you switching tabs… you know who you are 😉). So, I caught a program on Channel 4 earlier this week called “Jimmy Carr Destroys Art”, an interesting concept by which the producers of the show purchased controversial artworks, assembled an audience of critics and art lovers, and either played two pieces against each other with live debate, or offered the audience the option to single-handedly destroy a controversial piece of art. Pieces ranged from a 1920s watercolour by a certain (in)famous German leader, a sculpture by Rachel Dolazel, an oil painting by disgraced celebrity Rolf Harris, sexually explicit scenes by the renowned artist Eric Gill, and a portrait of notorious child murderer Myra Hindley composed of hand prints of children. The show looked to tackle a variety of concepts and problems, namely can we separate art from the artist, what is provocative and what is offensive, and in the current climate of cancel culture how do we address difficult works both historically and modern, albeit in a very short form crammed into 40 minutes of post-watershed time interspersed with adverts. Anyway… it got me thinking about other forms, such as music and fashion, especially with the current antics of a certain Mr Kanye West, and then I wondered if this could be applied to horology. Are there controversial watches? Are there brands or models that upset or derive hatred? I mean, yes, there are brands and releases that generate emotion and criticism, but are there any that still generate such a visceral reaction from detractors years down the line. Is there a watch that given the option a large number of people would take a hammer to in a public display of vigilante justice, and then again, are there two equal models in a certain category that you could pair off in a gladiatorial fight to the death. Then I remembered some of the discussions where I have defended certain brands and watches, and I have a perfect opener: Ladies and Gentlemen… Which one would you rather see destroyed/erased/forgotten about: Tag Heuer Carrera Cal. 1887 or the Bremont Wright Flyer Limited Edition? Two watches, similar controversy, still deriving visceral, emotional responses over a decade later amongst horological types. Tag Heuer Carrera Cal. 1887 - the first watch Tag released with their “new at the time” Calibre 1887 in-house chronograph movement back in 2009, watch fans were very quick to observe similarities between it and the Seiko Instruments (SII) TC78 movement. The internet got into such a fever that Jean-Christophe Babin, President and CEO of TAG Heuer, personally took it upon himself to defend the brands claims that the movement was 100% in-house. Alas, he blamed the marketing, admitting that Tag had purchased the IP for the movement and had used it as the starting point for their new calibre, and had spent some much time and engineering making so many changes that they had effectively made the movement their own. Many people still feel deceived by Tag Heuer over this episode, and it is still one of the major reasons why a lot of watch fans believe the brand lost whatever credibility it had left, and no longer consider Tag Heuer worthy of interest, even to this day. The Bremont Wright Flyer Limited Edition - British brand Bremont seemingly had a short-term memory when they effectively pull a similar manoeuvre a few years later. The brand often relied on ETA and other ebauches to power its watches, so for the Wright Brothers inspired limited edition the brand claimed to use an in-house movement, designed and developed in their own manufacture in Britain for the first time. Again, watch fans were very quick to observe that the movement was based on a La Joux-Perret calibre as the layout and bridge-shape were clear giveaways. Even if Bremont’s movement has been modified, it was clear it had not been 100% designed and developed by them. The company later admitted in interviews, and issued a formal statement saying that the movement was developed by Bremont and La Joux-Perret, and that some parts are bought from La Joux-Perret, and that some others are manufactured by Bremont. This too saw the young brands reputation take a nosedive, and many watch fans remain wary of the brand, even calling into criticism their origins and history. So… two watches that saw controversy around their movements, and as a result crashed their reputations to irreparable levels in certain corners. Personally, and as I have often defended both passionately for what I believe was poor marketing and communication rather than outright deceit, I think the furore over each one should be allowed to die down, but others just cannot seem to let… it… go… The question I therefore pose to you, which would you destroy, and why?
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Neither!  It is sheer idiocy, lunacy, and highway robbery to sell "in-house" movements as somehow superior to "workhorse movements."  

I could rehash the whole "complex components require massive fixed R&D expenditure, which then creates natural monopolies" blah, blah, blah, and how if you go "in-house" you get Nissan CVT transmission quality, etc., etc.  

What I've written and have always written about "in-house" movements:

  • I would take an ETA or Sellita or Seiko or Miyota movement over an "in-house" 8 days a week
  • "Workhorse movements" have shown their reliability and quality in real-world, empirical, day-to-day use and abuse, for decades on end now
  • Parts are plentiful, any competent watch-maker is equipped to work on them, it's all relatively cheap to maintain, etc., etc.
  • The only reason that manufacturers are touting "in-house" movements is because the Swatch Group bought up all the movement manufacturers coming out of the quartz crisis, and then wanted to put all their competitors out of business by no longer supplying them with ETA movements, etc.  Unfortunately, the Swiss government stepped in to prevent free commerce.  As a result, all these manufacturers had to move in-house, and their marketing tells you that in-house is better
  • But, if in-house is better, why do in-house movements cost so much more?  As a business guy, my hypothesis is this:  "I gotta charge you a ton upfront, to cover all the downstream warranty costs I gotta eat, when the movement fails you!"

Given all that, I would put both of those in a museum as "best in class" and destroy all the "in-house" movement watches out there!

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Mr.Dee.Bater

Neither!  It is sheer idiocy, lunacy, and highway robbery to sell "in-house" movements as somehow superior to "workhorse movements."  

I could rehash the whole "complex components require massive fixed R&D expenditure, which then creates natural monopolies" blah, blah, blah, and how if you go "in-house" you get Nissan CVT transmission quality, etc., etc.  

What I've written and have always written about "in-house" movements:

  • I would take an ETA or Sellita or Seiko or Miyota movement over an "in-house" 8 days a week
  • "Workhorse movements" have shown their reliability and quality in real-world, empirical, day-to-day use and abuse, for decades on end now
  • Parts are plentiful, any competent watch-maker is equipped to work on them, it's all relatively cheap to maintain, etc., etc.
  • The only reason that manufacturers are touting "in-house" movements is because the Swatch Group bought up all the movement manufacturers coming out of the quartz crisis, and then wanted to put all their competitors out of business by no longer supplying them with ETA movements, etc.  Unfortunately, the Swiss government stepped in to prevent free commerce.  As a result, all these manufacturers had to move in-house, and their marketing tells you that in-house is better
  • But, if in-house is better, why do in-house movements cost so much more?  As a business guy, my hypothesis is this:  "I gotta charge you a ton upfront, to cover all the downstream warranty costs I gotta eat, when the movement fails you!"

Given all that, I would put both of those in a museum as "best in class" and destroy all the "in-house" movement watches out there!

Yes, you and I share similar views on in-house vs off-the-shelf. At the same time, brands can do what they want and both brands technically did nothing that is not common practice, and maybe just got a little carried away with the marketing. 
These two always seem to rule up so much hostility, and it is both tiresome and amusing in equal measures.

Pick one though… for me?

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As I agree with both of you that it is sheer poor marketing and communication within the companies but if I have to choose I’ll choose the tag because I like the Bremont design better…

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Bremont for me. I can't put my finger on it but something seems disingenuous and pandery. 

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Jewbaka

Bremont for me. I can't put my finger on it but something seems disingenuous and pandery. 

I suppose as a younger brand they wanted to make a big song and dance about how this was not a “jobber” with an off the shelf ebauche, but watch people can sniff these things out, just like they did a few years before with Tag and the cal.1887.

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Porthole

I suppose as a younger brand they wanted to make a big song and dance about how this was not a “jobber” with an off the shelf ebauche, but watch people can sniff these things out, just like they did a few years before with Tag and the cal.1887.

A thousand percent. 

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I'm in the "neither" camp.  Look, these are either decent watches or they aren't, but deceitful marketing doesn't change that.  Had I bought either under the impression they were sporting new in-house movements, yeah, I'd be annoyed.  Beyond that, I'd wear either of these.

That said, I like where you're at with this post.  I'm not sure what you could come up with that would piss me off enough to want to smash it, but I'm open to suggestions.  Even things I hate, I'd be willing to bet will look different to me in t 10-20 years.  But you should definitely have another go at making me mad with watches.

Also, it's amazing that people still think they can get away with stuff in the internet age.  How do they not realize there are thousands of lonely dudes out there with nothing better to do than wreck somebody else's day?

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thekris

I'm in the "neither" camp.  Look, these are either decent watches or they aren't, but deceitful marketing doesn't change that.  Had I bought either under the impression they were sporting new in-house movements, yeah, I'd be annoyed.  Beyond that, I'd wear either of these.

That said, I like where you're at with this post.  I'm not sure what you could come up with that would piss me off enough to want to smash it, but I'm open to suggestions.  Even things I hate, I'd be willing to bet will look different to me in t 10-20 years.  But you should definitely have another go at making me mad with watches.

Also, it's amazing that people still think they can get away with stuff in the internet age.  How do they not realize there are thousands of lonely dudes out there with nothing better to do than wreck somebody else's day?

I do see a lot of polls that are pick one of these to keep, or if you get rid of a watch out of this random selection what would it be, which is fun and all, but (no offense) can come across as a little contrived, and a little “content for content sake”. I was watching the program, and I liked the concept, albeit it is difficult to even say the choice between destroying a Rolf Harris against the Eric Gill is not a fair choice and a little contrived. Harris was a beloved entertainer who encouraged many children to take up art and whose fall from grace was documented; Gill, conversely, is a highly revered artist within the establishment whose “crimes” were only revealed after his death when his diaries were discovered. If alive he would have faced significant jail time. Harris and Gill aren’t even in the same league, it was purely provocative (it gets the people going), but it does potentially open other avenues in discussion around whether you can separate the art from the artist. I mean, I like The Smiths despite Morrissey, and I like Morrissey despite Morrissey, but it makes it hard to listen to retrospectively. Anyway, I digress… this too can be seen to be quite contrived as a concept (a straight shoot-out always is) but I think a parallel discussion over which of these two watches I have seen people have visceral reactions to was one I wanted to try and replicate. Perhaps this is an indulgence too far? It would be more shocking if I actually acquired both models, grabbed an audience, and smashed the losing watch, but maybe that is something we could convince the platform to invest in if this gains traction 😀

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Porthole

Yes, you and I share similar views on in-house vs off-the-shelf. At the same time, brands can do what they want and both brands technically did nothing that is not common practice, and maybe just got a little carried away with the marketing. 
These two always seem to rule up so much hostility, and it is both tiresome and amusing in equal measures.

Pick one though… for me?

For You Anything GIFs | Tenor
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Porthole

I do see a lot of polls that are pick one of these to keep, or if you get rid of a watch out of this random selection what would it be, which is fun and all, but (no offense) can come across as a little contrived, and a little “content for content sake”. I was watching the program, and I liked the concept, albeit it is difficult to even say the choice between destroying a Rolf Harris against the Eric Gill is not a fair choice and a little contrived. Harris was a beloved entertainer who encouraged many children to take up art and whose fall from grace was documented; Gill, conversely, is a highly revered artist within the establishment whose “crimes” were only revealed after his death when his diaries were discovered. If alive he would have faced significant jail time. Harris and Gill aren’t even in the same league, it was purely provocative (it gets the people going), but it does potentially open other avenues in discussion around whether you can separate the art from the artist. I mean, I like The Smiths despite Morrissey, and I like Morrissey despite Morrissey, but it makes it hard to listen to retrospectively. Anyway, I digress… this too can be seen to be quite contrived as a concept (a straight shoot-out always is) but I think a parallel discussion over which of these two watches I have seen people have visceral reactions to was one I wanted to try and replicate. Perhaps this is an indulgence too far? It would be more shocking if I actually acquired both models, grabbed an audience, and smashed the losing watch, but maybe that is something we could convince the platform to invest in if this gains traction 😀

The funny thing is that I wasn't immediately sure Rachel Dolawhatsherface didn't belong in that group.  

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Destroy a watch? 

Calls rent-a-mob to storm @chronotriggered castle for such a heinous notion 

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Porthole

I do see a lot of polls that are pick one of these to keep, or if you get rid of a watch out of this random selection what would it be, which is fun and all, but (no offense) can come across as a little contrived, and a little “content for content sake”. I was watching the program, and I liked the concept, albeit it is difficult to even say the choice between destroying a Rolf Harris against the Eric Gill is not a fair choice and a little contrived. Harris was a beloved entertainer who encouraged many children to take up art and whose fall from grace was documented; Gill, conversely, is a highly revered artist within the establishment whose “crimes” were only revealed after his death when his diaries were discovered. If alive he would have faced significant jail time. Harris and Gill aren’t even in the same league, it was purely provocative (it gets the people going), but it does potentially open other avenues in discussion around whether you can separate the art from the artist. I mean, I like The Smiths despite Morrissey, and I like Morrissey despite Morrissey, but it makes it hard to listen to retrospectively. Anyway, I digress… this too can be seen to be quite contrived as a concept (a straight shoot-out always is) but I think a parallel discussion over which of these two watches I have seen people have visceral reactions to was one I wanted to try and replicate. Perhaps this is an indulgence too far? It would be more shocking if I actually acquired both models, grabbed an audience, and smashed the losing watch, but maybe that is something we could convince the platform to invest in if this gains traction 😀

I've got $9 to donate towards a Richard Mille getting smashed...

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TalkingDugong

Destroy a watch? 

Calls rent-a-mob to storm @chronotriggered castle for such a heinous notion 

You don't have a phone number for Rent-A-Mob do you?  Asking for a guy I hardly even know should anything go wrong.

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TalkingDugong

Destroy a watch? 

Calls rent-a-mob to storm @chronotriggered castle for such a heinous notion 

I actually did lay into someone who destroyed a watch, I found the idea pretty offensive considering the reasons. Like I say, it was an interesting concept that I thought about from a horological perspective, and these two came to mind, but rest assured, I do not own either and I’m not looking to source one for destructive measures.

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thekris

You don't have a phone number for Rent-A-Mob do you?  Asking for a guy I hardly even know should anything go wrong.

I've got my guy to contact your guy with the number. Expect him to call you at some trashy bar soon-ish. 🍻

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AllTheWatches

@chronotriggered For your sake, I picked the Bremont, simply because it does not fit me, the brand seems rudderless, and that Tag has resulted in a lot of cool-looking chronos later on.

I think that’s fair… I personally do not like the later developments Tag did with the line, and I am drawn more and more to Bremont models as they have developed, as I quite like the style of some of their pieces.

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Yes, I also have waxed lyrical about in-house and “off-the-shelf”, but it’s not really the main crux of this one, although perfectly valid. I know that the cal.1887 is always one of the first things that Tag detractors bring up, and with regards to Bremont, again you can see from a few people in this thread, there is no love there. I think these two were a good choice to kick things off.

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Droptuned83

I'm actually in the neither camp, but as that wasn't a voting option and I'm addicted to the polls I picked the Tag as I was the least interesting.

Yes, one would theoretically be destroyed on the show, and that is kind of the point. If the Tag doesn’t resonate purely aesthetically, and that is why, perfectly valid if the controversy is not affecting you. This is why the watch version of this is so good, you could care, you could not, it’s so very nuanced it’s good to see this pan out.

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CitizenKale

My biggest complaint are the animals hurt for leather. Often mislabeled cats and dogs from China which is the world's biggest producer of leather.

And many others too. There are documentaries about it like Dominion on YouTube. 

Not sure if that's controversial exactly, but it's sad to me.

That is a good point, but kind of lost within the context of this thread. 

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SeanS79

Cutting to the chase… everything Bremont does has a whiff - No… a STENCH of try-hard-fakery-look-at-us-pompous-w*nkers 

Case in point 👇🏼

Image

“Let’s take a random actor no one really gives a monkeys about, pay him a bunch of money, call him a “friend of the brand” (WTAF does that even mean?!), do some glossy photography and vom-inducing copywriting to launch yet another overpriced and boring steel sports watch, feeding a completely invented, hyper-polished and wierdly plastic sense of faux masculinity. 

Honestly, they can just get in the bin! 

So this poll was an easy one for me.

Bleugh 🤢 🤬

#triggered

Tell us what you really think. 😂

I mean, this sort of post kind of really brings to the fore the Bremont shade that is still prevalent. Watchfinder’s video for the Wright Flyer is titled “The Most Controversial Watch Ever” - that is clickbait if ever I’ve seen... it is infamous. I’m very pleased to see this sort of reaction, I think the two watches chosen are perfect for this pilot.

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DeeperBlue

I care very little about movements, so in-house or not matters not at all to me, so I approach this more from the angle of 'Whose lies were worst?'. As @Aurelian  said, if Bremont were stupid enough to get themselves caught out, having not learned lessons from Tag, well then that stupidity should not be rewarded. So Bremont for me.

What's most interesting about this question for me is how people approach the subject in different ways, which was obviously @chronotriggereds intention.

It appears that as watch lovers it would take a lot for us to be complicit in the actual destruction of a watch, regardless of history. I may be the only one who would say that if the Nazi Reverso was going to a collector who was going to use it to show his reverence to its former owner, I'd say destroy it. If it was going into a museum to be used to help us remember and learn about that horrific period in history, so it not be repeated, then that is a great reason to keep it around.

So what it boils down to for me when considering destroying a watch, piece of art or book is the question "Can something good still come from this existing?" I think in the vast majority of cases for watches the answer is going to be yes. 

Well yes, watches are going to command less existential impact than, say, a Picasso or a watercolour by Hitler, but at the same time, as many watch fans are incredibly passionate it was always going to be interesting (to me at least) to see how this format could work and what sort of responses would appear. 

The choice of watches was also deliberate, I wanted to choose something of horological relevance that saw and generated controversy within the watch community, rather than one of Hiltler’s watches or the Panerai’s, that would be a pretty forgone conclusion (no offence). I wanted something a little more leftfield, I think it’s revealing a lot about what people really think about some issues that certain watch fans get very passionate about... it seems a lot of people don’t care, and it’s therefore aesthetic or other less technical reasons that allows for the choice. Whether they support the theoretical destruction that comes from said choice in this scenario is also coming through: many would rather not choose at all whether through apathy or concern. Then of course, there are the zealots 😂. 
I am surprised at the current margin in the polls, it’s not very clear cut, it’s a difficult one. I never said this was supposed to be easy.

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Porthole

You see, this is interesting, you are ok with the Tag because it’s effectively a Seiko in some way shape or form - a Seiko remix perhaps? Embracing the controversy head on?

I don't make fun of Tag for using a Seiko movement.  I make fun of Tag for being such Swiss snobs that they kept spinning themselves in circles trying to deny that they used a Seiko movement architecture, even one as superior as the 6S.

I think if they'd been upfront about where the architecture came from and just talked about how they'd improved it, that era of Carreras might be talked about like the classics they ought to be.

It's a beautiful watch.  The TC78 is a great movement and Tag did improve it into the Caliber 1887.  Tag Heuer is a great brand.  They just kinda flubbed it.

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Porthole

Yes, one would theoretically be destroyed on the show, and that is kind of the point. If the Tag doesn’t resonate purely aesthetically, and that is why, perfectly valid if the controversy is not affecting you. This is why the watch version of this is so good, you could care, you could not, it’s so very nuanced it’s good to see this pan out.

Controversy is unimportant to me in this case , just don't think this TAG is very good. In that it's not got anything to recommend it, uninspired and boring design ( for me anyway) and it certainly doesn't follow much if any of TAG's usual strong design asthetic. Of course I'm not overly impressed by the Bremont either , just of the two I was more underwhelmed by this TAG! 

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Porthole

Well yes, watches are going to command less existential impact than, say, a Picasso or a watercolour by Hitler, but at the same time, as many watch fans are incredibly passionate it was always going to be interesting (to me at least) to see how this format could work and what sort of responses would appear. 

The choice of watches was also deliberate, I wanted to choose something of horological relevance that saw and generated controversy within the watch community, rather than one of Hiltler’s watches or the Panerai’s, that would be a pretty forgone conclusion (no offence). I wanted something a little more leftfield, I think it’s revealing a lot about what people really think about some issues that certain watch fans get very passionate about... it seems a lot of people don’t care, and it’s therefore aesthetic or other less technical reasons that allows for the choice. Whether they support the theoretical destruction that comes from said choice in this scenario is also coming through: many would rather not choose at all whether through apathy or concern. Then of course, there are the zealots 😂. 
I am surprised at the current margin in the polls, it’s not very clear cut, it’s a difficult one. I never said this was supposed to be easy.

Then of course, there are the zealots 😂. 
 

#zealotsunite

⚔️🛡🔥🔥🔥

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Porthole

Tell us what you really think. 😂

I mean, this sort of post kind of really brings to the fore the Bremont shade that is still prevalent. Watchfinder’s video for the Wright Flyer is titled “The Most Controversial Watch Ever” - that is clickbait if ever I’ve seen... it is infamous. I’m very pleased to see this sort of reaction, I think the two watches chosen are perfect for this pilot.

I think the two watches chosen are perfect for this pilot.
 

100% agree. You smashed it mate 💥 Look at the diversity of perspectives on show you’ve brought to the fore 👏🏼 Nice work. Look fwd to instalment #2 

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SeanS79

I think the two watches chosen are perfect for this pilot.
 

100% agree. You smashed it mate 💥 Look at the diversity of perspectives on show you’ve brought to the fore 👏🏼 Nice work. Look fwd to instalment #2 

If there is enough demand then I can investigate the possibility of a second instalment. 

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Porthole

If there is enough demand then I can investigate the possibility of a second instalment. 

If 7 is the biblical number of completion / perfection I think it’d be a marvellous achievement to absolutely smash 7 fully deserving travesties of horological history 💥 🔨 

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None, i actually like both.

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creato938

None, i actually like both.

Doesn’t work that way, not the format, pick one.

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Porthole

Doesn’t work that way, not the format, pick one.

In that acse i would go with the Tag Hauer, the Bremont has a really cool early 1900's look.