Is The Field Watch A Forgotten Genre?

Field watches are arguably the most overlooked, and often forgotten, genre of watches. Everyone has a dive watch, or recommends a chronograph. You have to have a “dress watch” – or even a “beater” (a sacrificial watch that can get beat up, knocked around, and take the hit for your other, nicer watches). The field watch, however, doesn’t get mentioned much, despite its foundational roots behind the creation of the modern wristwatch.

World War 1: Planting The Seeds For The Field Watch

The history of the wristwatch can be traced back to pocket watches improvised to be worn by British soldiers during the Boer War. Before this, and even after, wristwatches were unpopular with men and were seen as feminine objects. Most men carried pocket watches in those days.

Enter the trench watch. Pocket watches were impractical on the battle field during World War 1, so trench watches – complete with large, radium-lumed numerals and hands – became a necessary piece of equipment. This established the foundation for the first field watches. It also cemented a more masculine image of wristwatches for good, and the trend of wearing watches on wrist, as opposed to carrying pocket watches, stuck.

Rolex went on to invent the first waterproof watch in 1926, the oyster, complete with screw-down crown and case back. Wristwatches continued to gain popularity through the 1920s and 1930s, all the way up until World War 2.

A Military Necessity

During WW2, wristwatches were exceedingly important. The US military needed a watch that would be rugged and accurate for its soldiers, and so the “big 3” at the time – Waltham, Elgin, and Bulova – were tasked with producing the A-11. This is considered by many to be the “watch that won the war”. Hamilton also chipped in with its marine chronometers, along with wristwatches. This included pilots watches. During this time, the US companies didn’t produce civilian wristwatches, which some speculate led to the subsequent rise of the Swiss watch manufacturers in the United States.

Rolex continued to pioneer with the Datejust and Explorer, as well as the Submariner. Dive watches like Blancpain’s Fifty Fathoms, along with the Rolex Submariner, expanded the wristwatch’s capability in regards to the amount of water resistance it could tolerate. By the time the Vietnam War rolled around, many soldiers relied on their dive watches as everyday companions. Seiko, Rolex, and Tudor were all producing dependable, rugged divers at this point.

Field watches produced during the Vietnam War gave birth to what is perhaps the most archetypal design when we look at field watches today. These watches were issued to American servicemen from the 1950s through the 1970s. The MIL-W-3818B was issued by the Department of Defense in 1964, and required “hacking” (meaning the seconds hand stops when you pull the crown out to set the time), was hand wound, and relatively accurate (for the time period at least) at +/- 30seconds. The MIL-W-46374 was issued in October 1964 as a disposable, cheaper alternative, with both metal and plastic cases. These watches were produced by companies such as Hamilton and Timex, as well as many others.

Does A Field Watch Belong In Your Collection?

Now that we’ve established that the field watch’s history is just as rich and iconic as that of any of the other popular tool watches that everybody and their mother always talks about – do you really need one? Well, nobody really needs any type of watch in today’s day and age. We have phones for that. But should you consider adding a field watch to help round out your watch collection? Absolutely!

The Timex Camper Reissue, a classic field watch design.

Field watches carry some of the most important histories when it comes to the development, and subsequent popularity, of the modern wristwatch. They also look great and carry a timeless design. The above modern Timex’s dial illustrates this point. It’s similar to most field watches made by other brands like Benrus and Hamilton in design. I love the 24 hour dial, the lack of the date, and easy-to-read, no-nonsense nature of these military-inspired watches.

The Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical is another example. It’s a great field watch that I plan on picking up sooner rather than later. It carries the same design language and style as the issued watches during the Vietnam-era, manual winding movement and all, but with an updated 38mm case (versus the 34mm case of the originals).

Currently, the Seiko 5 Military (reference SNZG15) occupies this place in my collection, however. It’s definitely got that field watch charm with its sandblasted case, 24 hour dial, and supreme legibility. It also boasts 100 meters of water resistance. The best part? I picked it up off Amazon for only around $150.

This leads me to another reason why I love field watches. They’re relatively affordable.

Field Watches Need To Be In The Conversation

Despite their modest price tag, field watches give you great design, heritage, and solid build quality. That makes them great “starter” watches for the new watch collector. I think a field watch also makes a great addition to the watch box of more seasoned collectors as well, especially those who already own every other category of watch out there. They’re tough and durable (like a dive watch), but usually wear thin (like a dress watch). That makes them awesome GADA watches, all while maintaining the ability to slip under the cuff of a dress shirt. So when we’re talking about categories such as, but not limited to: The dress watch, dive watch, chronograph, pilot’s watch, GADA (go anywhere, do anything) watch, complications watch, or what have you – the field watch also belongs in that conversation.