Are Cartier having a moment?
With smaller watches and dressier pieces coming in to fashion. Are Cartier having a bit of a moment?
Was debating this with a watchy friend the other day. Then I saw this front page article in the latest GQ watch magazine.
They are definitely having a moment with me (with four in the collection!)
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Justin
Fairly new to watch collecting. Super fast collecting journey! I've had a bit of everything, small gold pretty watches, large rugged watches, vintage British field watches. From Casio to Patek and eve...
London
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I had to check the yearly sales figures after seeing this post and it appears that the increase in Cartier's sales year to year is directly attributable to "some random guy in London" according to reports.
I had to check the yearly sales figures after seeing this post and it appears that the increase in Cartier's sales year to year is directly attributable to "some random guy in London" according to reports.
Haha!
They even made a watch that I could love.
They even made a watch that I could love.
That’s a stunner. Shame about the price!
4th option — brand on the rise… enjoy the 15 minutes of fame now.
I know this may shock a few of you who think I have one of everything, but I have yet to add a Cartier to the collection. It's not that I have any disdain for Cartier like I do for Panerai, Rolex, Hublot and others. It's just that I have an issue with the more "feminine" design elements of many of the Cartier designs.
I almost made a move on this Cartier Santos, but the points noted above held me back...
My favorite watch they've issued in the past couple of years was the Tank Cintree 100th Annievrsary reference. I came very close to purchasing it on the secondary market, but it violated my principles about paying a premium over list so I dithered and the moment passed. But I would still like to add this one to the collection one day...
My wife has been “lusting” for a Balon Blue for a long time. Looks like that will happen for our fortieth anniversary in a year and a half. Now what will I get? I was thinking IWC but as I don’t have a Cartier in my collection.... So it will have a moment for us in the near term future at least. But the rest of the world?
Tried the Tank Must today. And I want it.
They‘re timeless - pun definitely intended
I know this may shock a few of you who think I have one of everything, but I have yet to add a Cartier to the collection. It's not that I have any disdain for Cartier like I do for Panerai, Rolex, Hublot and others. It's just that I have an issue with the more "feminine" design elements of many of the Cartier designs.
I almost made a move on this Cartier Santos, but the points noted above held me back...
My favorite watch they've issued in the past couple of years was the Tank Cintree 100th Annievrsary reference. I came very close to purchasing it on the secondary market, but it violated my principles about paying a premium over list so I dithered and the moment passed. But I would still like to add this one to the collection one day...
That cintree is perfect
Smaller and dressier yes, but I think Cartier is stuck between two odd places. Collectors respect their history and innovation, not liking their fashion-y design as much. On the other hand, the general public regards them as an old traditional brand, not really in sync with the latest fashion trends. IMHO, they really need to break free from their standard designs and evolve a more modern look. Recently, I was in a watch shop looking at Omega and Heuer and the lovely sales lady asked why not the Santos? I replied that it was the styling, not to my taste. Though I respected the history.
Worth noting they were second luxury Swiss watch brand by revenue last year globally (moving ahead of Omega.)* Part of that is probably how well they serve female customers.
*and noting this was just for watch sales - disregarding their other lines
Cartier's market share of luxury watches has been in the top four for years in the United States. They've been doing just fine for a very long time. Whether they're having a moment in the watch aficionado echo chamber or not is irrelevant to Cartier.
Cartier's market share of luxury watches has been in the top four for years in the United States. They've been doing just fine for a very long time. Whether they're having a moment in the watch aficionado echo chamber or not is irrelevant to Cartier.
Sometimes I wonder if it’s the other way. The watch echo chamber doesn’t realise how big they are. Cos it’s a mainly male mainly tool watchy chamber. (He says massively generalising.)
I cant really vote because none of the options really line up for me.
In 2016 Cartier was doing ok but not moving, they'd tried high horology but it didn't quite shift the needle. So they hatched a plan, primarily to get more men into the brand.
The Santos was withdrawn from sale in 2016 and sent to the gym for 2 years. It came back in 2018, a little more 'masculine', a little beefier but also a bit chiseled. They also changed their marketing, younger, hipper, the launch event wasn't classical music and champagne but a party featuring Hot Chip, Phoenix, Jamie XX beers and juices.
That was part of a concerted attempted to change the narrative around Cartier for men and it worked. It shifted the needle just enough and now Cartier has a couple of percentage points extra growth and in 2021 passed omega on the Morgan Stanley watch world cup league table.
So is Cartier having "a moment" - no - this is the result of a plan hatched maybe 8 years ago and put into place over 4 years ago. I don't call that "a moment". But otoh they arent "holding steady" either.
The one external factor I think is really helping them is that they are seen as a true Rolex alternative, not a substitute. As Rolexes have become harder and harder to get I believe Omega has suffered as they've increasingly been seen as the Rolex substitute - the lesser choice you're forced into. Cartier OTOH gets seen as a legitimate, free choice. Yeah, the guy with the Santos may have secretly preferred a Sub but the Santos doesn't give that away (even to the guy wearing it).
All good points and I think that’s close enough to holding steady! BAU but with some good choices (and doubtless some bad in the mix.)
All the rich dudes have wives and those women will want a Cartier. Forget dive or pilot watches , These people want small and pretty.
I love the brand. I've owned the Drive and now a Santos. Both incredible pieces. They do amazing stuff like this
Cartier availability and affordability are the equivalents of the two-tone Rolex affordability and popularity with Gen X Asian men! 🤔🤣
I plead the fifth! 😂
Cartier availability and affordability are the equivalents of the two-tone Rolex affordability and popularity with Gen X Asian men! 🤔🤣
Ugh, don't remind me of the old madam types. Old fogies with Datejust and their gossipy wives with a Tank, or a Ballon Bleu for the "Princess Diana" look. 🤢
Too feminine for people?
A borderline fashion watch for the ladies?
Please… they might have forgotten about their back catalogue around 2016 and tried to go for areas of the market that were already saturated, but they learnt that lesson the hard way. Cartier is important, we would not have the notion of a “luxury” (ugh!) wristwatch for men without the Santos, it’s one of the catalysts.
I know I’ve said this in the past but, we are also under estimating the impact of many casual watch buyers, especially women. Working in a professional setting and meeting with many folks at different large firms, after an Apple Watch, the next most likely watch I see on women leaders is usually a Tank of some sort. Not saying all women, or that women don’t wear sports watches, but to many, the Tank is an entry point to the luxury watch world when moving beyond a smart watch.
Then let’s throw in the fact they are simply making cool watches for everyone.
So very true...the watch market for women is very large and they do purchase more than one watch.
My daughter loves watches even though she rarely wears them.
Her view of the ideal daily driver would be a Cartier Panthere...
Too feminine for people?
A borderline fashion watch for the ladies?
Please… they might have forgotten about their back catalogue around 2016 and tried to go for areas of the market that were already saturated, but they learnt that lesson the hard way. Cartier is important, we would not have the notion of a “luxury” (ugh!) wristwatch for men without the Santos, it’s one of the catalysts.
That last photo is the one - Steve McQueen in The Thomas Crown Affair...Tank Cintree...oh yeah!
Great article on Cartier...
https://revolutionwatch.com/100-years-of-the-cartier-tank/
they‘ve never lost their moment. Cartier just markets a lot during the holidays.
Last year in Singapore, all the tanks and santos’s were sold out in all AD’s and Boutiques leaving a waitlist with no discounts til February. It will likely be the same this time round.
That last photo is the one - Steve McQueen in The Thomas Crown Affair...Tank Cintree...oh yeah!
Great article on Cartier...
https://revolutionwatch.com/100-years-of-the-cartier-tank/
Absolutely, but I always love the pictures of Ali and his Tank, it’s the perfect counter to any of this Cartier, ladies-only fashion brand nonsense. And Clark Gable.
I am surprised you haven’t picked one up, but you do own at least 3 of everything else, so I think you can be forgiven.
Classic watches, timeless style, and people buy them. Doesn’t have to appease watch-fans to be successful (heaven forbid), which people forget, it just needs to shift units. Watches are jewellery, which people forget, so a jeweller who makes watches - sacré bleu! If you want to point at “high horology” (which is one of the most pretentious phrases to utter when regarding a watch, but hey, the cat is out of the bag, so I’ll start trying to get it back in there), then realise the fact they have their own manufacturing facility in La Chaux-de-Fonds which they developed from 2008. I’ve already seen a photo in this thread of the Manufacture 9801MC movement within a rotor for the Masse Mystérieuse. I mean the VC Fiftysix movement (cal.1326) is based off the Manufacture 1904MC. Tick tock, they can make a f*****g clock.
Nope… they’re a borderline fashion watch for the ladies. Isn’t it great how they’ve gone from nothing to everything in 5 years? I’m…done… trying 😂
I know this may shock a few of you who think I have one of everything, but I have yet to add a Cartier to the collection. It's not that I have any disdain for Cartier like I do for Panerai, Rolex, Hublot and others. It's just that I have an issue with the more "feminine" design elements of many of the Cartier designs.
I almost made a move on this Cartier Santos, but the points noted above held me back...
My favorite watch they've issued in the past couple of years was the Tank Cintree 100th Annievrsary reference. I came very close to purchasing it on the secondary market, but it violated my principles about paying a premium over list so I dithered and the moment passed. But I would still like to add this one to the collection one day...
After I got a vintage Tank for my wife and tried it on myself, I got it. I was never a fan of rectangular watches, but after seeing it on, it made sense. I’m still looking to add a Tank to the collection but I need to pick it up for a song like I did hers. One day…..
I know this may shock a few of you who think I have one of everything, but I have yet to add a Cartier to the collection. It's not that I have any disdain for Cartier like I do for Panerai, Rolex, Hublot and others. It's just that I have an issue with the more "feminine" design elements of many of the Cartier designs.
I almost made a move on this Cartier Santos, but the points noted above held me back...
My favorite watch they've issued in the past couple of years was the Tank Cintree 100th Annievrsary reference. I came very close to purchasing it on the secondary market, but it violated my principles about paying a premium over list so I dithered and the moment passed. But I would still like to add this one to the collection one day...
I agree that Cartier has a feminine design element too. That said, I still appreciate them though for their place in the market. I don’t own one either.
Cartier is a safe luxury choice and I must admit the Tank Solarbeat is proposition worth considering if you're in the market for a dressy timepiece with worry-free experience, at a sensible price
Having said that, I don't understand why every watch influencer and their dog all swoon over the Santos or asymetric models. Feels more like jewelry more than proper watch stuff
But then again, I'm a Sinn 556 guy, and Sinn is probably the polar opposite of Cartier in the watch world
Cartier is a safe luxury choice and I must admit the Tank Solarbeat is proposition worth considering if you're in the market for a dressy timepiece with worry-free experience, at a sensible price
Having said that, I don't understand why every watch influencer and their dog all swoon over the Santos or asymetric models. Feels more like jewelry more than proper watch stuff
But then again, I'm a Sinn 556 guy, and Sinn is probably the polar opposite of Cartier in the watch world
The latest santos is too much of a scratch magnet and too big. The tank is a much better ref in their current collection - mainly because they left it more classical.