Back up out of the rabbit hole... AKA, never mind about Independents, I'm buying more GS

Shameless plug:  Bid now to win the Seiko Shirakaba Explorer.  Auction goes until Friday, February 24, 12pm PT.  All proceeds go to GiveDirectly.org and will be matched!  

https://www.watchcrunch.com/HotWatchChick69/posts/buy-a-watch-help-save-the-world-19-seiko-shirakaba-explorer-27284

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This post is inspired by @mjosamannen’s inspiring trolling of us all:  https://www.watchcrunch.com/mjosamannen/posts/to-all-of-those-who-believed-in-me-27179

I believed @mjosamannen when he said that he had reached watch collecting nirvana.  I was amongst…

all of you who believed in me and my lofty dreams of sticking to my three watches and living happily ever after

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And that’s the thing.  The easiest one for us to lie to is ourselves.  As he put it…

I was mistaken and and I lied to myself 😥 I was in rush to get locked in and done with the collection. In a hurry to escape the grind of my watchmania…

In my own case, I’d recently convinced myself that I was going independent.  It was, in fact…  

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I’d genuinely convinced myself that it was time to sell a GS in order to buy a Kudoke 2.  

https://www.watchcrunch.com/HotWatchChick69/posts/down-the-rabbit-hole-aka-selling-the-sbgk015-for-the-kudoke-2-24781

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On top of that, I signed up on the reservation list for an Atelier Wen Perception with salmon dial.

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Both watches are out of this world gorgeous.  The dials are phenomenal!!!  

I love EVERYTHING about both of these independent watches…  except for one thing:  Their in-house movements.  Why?  Why oh why, god, must these watches have in-house movements???

The Kudoke 2 has what their site describes as "Inhouse-movement Kaliber 1-24H, hand winding,” while the Perception has a "Customised Dandong/Peacock SL1588.”

I can’t do it.  If these watches had a simple Sellita or NH35, I’d be happy to drop big bucks on ‘em.  Unfortunately, here again is my broken record commentary on in-house movements:

  • I would take an ETA or Sellita or Seiko or Miyota movement over an "in-house" 8 days a week

  • "Workhorse movements" have shown their reliability and quality in real-world, empirical, day-to-day use and abuse, for decades on end now

  • Parts are plentiful, any competent watch-maker is equipped to work on them, it's all relatively cheap to maintain, etc., etc.

  • The only reason that manufacturers are touting "in-house" movements is because the Swatch Group bought up all the movement manufacturers coming out of the quartz crisis, and then wanted to put all their competitors out of business by no longer supplying them with ETA movements, etc.  Unfortunately, the Swiss government stepped in to prevent free commerce.  As a result, all these manufacturers had to move in-house, and their marketing tells you that in-house is better

  • But, if in-house is better, why do in-house movements cost so much more?  As a business guy, my hypothesis is this:  "I gotta charge you a ton upfront, to cover all the downstream warranty costs I gotta eat, when the movement fails you!"

When it comes to complex mechanical components, to make something that will last 10, 20, 30, 40 years, and beyond, requires MASSIVE fixed cost R&D investment.  When that happens, you end up with "natural monopolies."  

Here are some other examples of natural monopolies:

  • Microsoft Windows

  • Shimano bicycle drive trains

  • ZF8 auto transmissions

  • Google search

What these all have in common is massive fixed cost R&D investment, that is then amortized over large numbers of units / transactions.  

When you try to create "in-house" alternatives, you end up utter crap - even if you have extremely deep pockets.  Back in the day, when IBM was a giant, they tried to come up with an alternative to Microsoft's OS, and created OS/2.  Utter crap and it died an ignominious death.  

Sram is trying to compete with Shimano, but their drive trains really only sell to a niche market.

Check out the Nissan CVT transmission.  If you Google it, the entire first page of results will link to class action lawsuits.  Arguably, CVT is why Nissan is considered such a lemon Japanese auto brand!

So, I’m climbing back out of the rabbit hole.  I mean, I’ve read this book and believe in it whole-heartedly…

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… so, I should have known that I was just lying to myself, but there you go!

My next purchases…  

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Nah, I’m eff'ing with you.  Obviously, I’m as predictable as they come. Getting these 2 next!

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Reply
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The green GMT is a beaut.

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When you find out @HotWatchChick69 rides and knows components - - > 🤯 further knows the faults of the Nissan CVT - - > 😮

It’s a shame this post can only be given one - - > ❤ by me. Why? Multiple areas covered, and Grand Seiko’s rule.

This begs a question. Is Giant the Seiko of bicycles?

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AllTheWatches

The green GMT is a beaut.

Yeah, I saw it yesterday at an AD. Only issue is that I have a really nice green shell cordovan strap that I'd love to use, but maybe the forrest green of the strap will clash with the olive-ish green of the SBGM247?

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TimeToRide

When you find out @HotWatchChick69 rides and knows components - - > 🤯 further knows the faults of the Nissan CVT - - > 😮

It’s a shame this post can only be given one - - > ❤ by me. Why? Multiple areas covered, and Grand Seiko’s rule.

Oh, dude, I used to ride. Lived in Logan, UT for a couple of years, and they have this 201-mile race, called Logan-to-Jackson, that came about because a couple of friends decided to do the route one year, and it's become a real thing! So, EVERYONE there trains like mad, doing crazy mileage, to prep for the race each year. I was doing something like 1,000 miles a month at one point!

I even got my Litespeed Siena custom-painted. Because just like watches, at the time, I was constantly, obsessively checking out bikes all the time! And I figured that if I got my bike custom-painted, it would prevent me from ever selling it, which would mean that I couldn't also then buy yet another one!

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But, that was like over a decade ago! Since then, the only exercise I get is lifting cocktails from the table to my mouth.

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literallyabowlofpetunias

This begs a question. Is Giant the Seiko of bicycles?

Hmmm...

Based on 10 seconds of thought:

  • I would say "no"

  • Cadex only makes some components here and there, right?

  • For the perfect analogue, we would want a company that does EVERYTHING and is vertically-integrated

  • So, they would make everything from the wheels to the handle bars to the saddles, plus frames, but most importantly, they would also build drive trains, AND sell to consumers via their own brand

  • I don't know of any bike company like that - for it to work, I think Shimano would need to expand their offerings into frames and sell Shimano-branded bikes

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There is a fascination in watch circles with in-house movements that I reckon these independents are trying to tap into. Reality is, I do wonder how many people who parrot the, "In-house movement! In-house movement!" mantra have ever had a watch serviced? Like, properly, pulled into its component pieces and rebuilt, serviced? When it comes to tiny, obscure brands - which, let's face it, might not even exist in 5 years time - it's way better for them to have workhorse ETA, Selita, Seiko, etc movements.

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complication

There is a fascination in watch circles with in-house movements that I reckon these independents are trying to tap into. Reality is, I do wonder how many people who parrot the, "In-house movement! In-house movement!" mantra have ever had a watch serviced? Like, properly, pulled into its component pieces and rebuilt, serviced? When it comes to tiny, obscure brands - which, let's face it, might not even exist in 5 years time - it's way better for them to have workhorse ETA, Selita, Seiko, etc movements.

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It's funny, but when I first got into watches, I saw an ad for the Breitling Premier B01 Bentley in green, and thought, "Wow! Gorgeous. I have to have it." 1 month into ownership, the in-house B01 chronograph movement broke!

So, I started doing research about how mechanical movements work, the key failure modes, and how much it costs to do a service! And, that's how I landed on Omega. Their co-axial architecture addresses the key failure mode - oil degradation from heat and friction.

This, however, then led into researching Seiko and the Spring Drive! No escapement, so no friction and oil degradation in the fiddliest part of the movement!

Like, if the Atelier Wen Perception were to somehow break outside its warranty period, what would I have to do to get it fixed? Have my aunt call them up in China, so that she can explain to them in Mandarin that it makes a weird "scritch, scritch" sound when I wind it?

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Precisely! It's one of the most straightforward things to consider, yet so many don't. Which is what leads me to believe they've never done a full service on a watch like that (or had any issues), otherwise it would bring the situation into sharp relief for them. Going microbrand? Don't go in-house movement.

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complication

Precisely! It's one of the most straightforward things to consider, yet so many don't. Which is what leads me to believe they've never done a full service on a watch like that (or had any issues), otherwise it would bring the situation into sharp relief for them. Going microbrand? Don't go in-house movement.

You and me, right now...

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Mr.Dee.Bater

Yeah, I saw it yesterday at an AD. Only issue is that I have a really nice green shell cordovan strap that I'd love to use, but maybe the forrest green of the strap will clash with the olive-ish green of the SBGM247?

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That would look good as it is dark enough. Ditto with a tobacco brown padded suede strap.

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Mr.Dee.Bater

Oh, dude, I used to ride. Lived in Logan, UT for a couple of years, and they have this 201-mile race, called Logan-to-Jackson, that came about because a couple of friends decided to do the route one year, and it's become a real thing! So, EVERYONE there trains like mad, doing crazy mileage, to prep for the race each year. I was doing something like 1,000 miles a month at one point!

I even got my Litespeed Siena custom-painted. Because just like watches, at the time, I was constantly, obsessively checking out bikes all the time! And I figured that if I got my bike custom-painted, it would prevent me from ever selling it, which would mean that I couldn't also then buy yet another one!

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But, that was like over a decade ago! Since then, the only exercise I get is lifting cocktails from the table to my mouth.

That is super impressive and far better than I could ever muster for myself. Primarily, because I couldn’t road bike for more than a few miles. I have friends that are super hard core in to it. Plus I didn’t like competing on roads with cars and breathing their exhaust. Those Litespeed’s are really well built.

All this said, it’s why I stick to mountain biking. I’ve thought of entering amateur races and wanted to start road biking to help train for cross country events.

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literallyabowlofpetunias

This begs a question. Is Giant the Seiko of bicycles?

I'd also say nope. Starters, Giant is Taiwan, not Japan.

'Shimano is the Seiko of the cycling world' works not too badly. Both are 800lb gorillas of industry with low spec components you can see at a shopping mall, and high spec components that are crazy pricey and niche. No-name cheap Shimano all the way up to DI2 and Seiko goes from 4R35 up to 9RA5.

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TimeToRide

That is super impressive and far better than I could ever muster for myself. Primarily, because I couldn’t road bike for more than a few miles. I have friends that are super hard core in to it. Plus I didn’t like competing on roads with cars and breathing their exhaust. Those Litespeed’s are really well built.

All this said, it’s why I stick to mountain biking. I’ve thought of entering amateur races and wanted to start road biking to help train for cross country events.

Get on Zwift for some safe, easy, and super inspiring training!

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Fieldwalker

Get on Zwift for some safe, easy, and super inspiring training!

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Awesome, that looks great! I’ll check it out!

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street.credor

What is your opinion on Minase? Really nice Urushi dials and modern case designs running on a modified ETA 2892. Personally I'm a big fan!

Wow, yeah, they look amazing! Unfortunately, I've never seen them in-person. Would love to check them out!

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angelos

Some babes I saw and loved:

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SBGJ269, released down under.

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SBGY025 Hikari “Golden Light”, released in Thailand

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SBGM251, ordered by the Isetan department store in Tokyo

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SBGE289, only in Wako, Seiko's own department store in Ginza. Only 75 bloody units for this beauty!

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Another Wako only beauty, SLGH015.

Damn them! It's like Pokemon! Once you think you've caught them all, they just introduce more!

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Mr.Dee.Bater

I did not know this! Darn it! Now you are making my life harder!

Valjoux 7750 for the win!

I used to have the same concern then i watched a kudoke interview and he confirmed its a valjoux 7750 so even local watchmakers should be able to work on them. Maybe not the fancy decorated hand work but otherwise fairly simple components. Im into habring dead beat second these days and besides a few habring components its just a 3 hander version of the 7750. Clever stuffs.

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Mr.Dee.Bater

Wow, yeah, they look amazing! Unfortunately, I've never seen them in-person. Would love to check them out!

Same here, would make a nice souvenir for a Japan trip! On my list of things to do: money pending.

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street.credor

Same here, would make a nice souvenir for a Japan trip! On my list of things to do: money pending.

Like all things in life... money pending.

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Mr.Dee.Bater

Oh, dude, I used to ride. Lived in Logan, UT for a couple of years, and they have this 201-mile race, called Logan-to-Jackson, that came about because a couple of friends decided to do the route one year, and it's become a real thing! So, EVERYONE there trains like mad, doing crazy mileage, to prep for the race each year. I was doing something like 1,000 miles a month at one point!

I even got my Litespeed Siena custom-painted. Because just like watches, at the time, I was constantly, obsessively checking out bikes all the time! And I figured that if I got my bike custom-painted, it would prevent me from ever selling it, which would mean that I couldn't also then buy yet another one!

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But, that was like over a decade ago! Since then, the only exercise I get is lifting cocktails from the table to my mouth.

Nice paint job. I have/had a couple pretty crazy painted bikes over the years.

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That's it, I'm redoing a post about specs. Lots of posts on this topic lately, the algorithm is working!

But seriously, Omega and GS are my two top purchases in the next two years precisely because I like the movement tech they use. My only gripe with GS is they don't make enough dress watches with spring drives. They seem to mostly come in their sports collections. The SBGY011 is the closest I can see and it is as pricey as the GMTs which I think are more worth the money. prove me wrong, please!

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Fiatjeepdriver

Nice paint job. I have/had a couple pretty crazy painted bikes over the years.

Pics or it didn’t happen!

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Mr.Dee.Bater

Pics or it didn’t happen!

Here are the ones I still have:

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This one too though you have to see it on person to notice the small details.

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And the ones I've sold.

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tonmed

That's it, I'm redoing a post about specs. Lots of posts on this topic lately, the algorithm is working!

But seriously, Omega and GS are my two top purchases in the next two years precisely because I like the movement tech they use. My only gripe with GS is they don't make enough dress watches with spring drives. They seem to mostly come in their sports collections. The SBGY011 is the closest I can see and it is as pricey as the GMTs which I think are more worth the money. prove me wrong, please!

Yeah, I think until very recently, any spring drive watch would have been way too thick to be able to fall into dress watch territory. If I'm not mistaken, the SBGY007 was the first "affordable" spring drive dress watch of theirs. Like, the Snowflake is 12.5mm thick, and the knock on GS watches has always been that they're too thick, right?

And, yeah, the moment you get into the GMTs, those are always 14mm+!

You know what's funny though? I actually like thickness in my watches. Is that weird? Like, I prefer 13mm+. I know that's the opposite of what most folks want, though!

Have you tried on a titanium GS GMT? In those cases, because the titanium is so light weight, you don't feel the thickness. And there are some gorgeous GMT watches available in titanium.

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Fiatjeepdriver

Here are the ones I still have:

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This one too though you have to see it on person to notice the small details.

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And the ones I've sold.

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That's pretty awesome, man. Did you paint them yourself???

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Mr.Dee.Bater

Yeah, I think until very recently, any spring drive watch would have been way too thick to be able to fall into dress watch territory. If I'm not mistaken, the SBGY007 was the first "affordable" spring drive dress watch of theirs. Like, the Snowflake is 12.5mm thick, and the knock on GS watches has always been that they're too thick, right?

And, yeah, the moment you get into the GMTs, those are always 14mm+!

You know what's funny though? I actually like thickness in my watches. Is that weird? Like, I prefer 13mm+. I know that's the opposite of what most folks want, though!

Have you tried on a titanium GS GMT? In those cases, because the titanium is so light weight, you don't feel the thickness. And there are some gorgeous GMT watches available in titanium.

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The SBGE285 is also on my radar. But I'm the opposite of you I suppose. I don't like the lightweight of titanium, I like the heft of steel and it's color. For light weight I prefer resin.

Ultimately, as of now, I really like the SBGY series. The 013 is perfect dimensions and the 011 is a better design but slightly bigger. I'm a sucker for simple, clean dials and reliable specs, those dress watches nail both of those things in spades. I think an Omega SMP and an GS SBGY may be my grail watches all around.

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tonmed

The SBGE285 is also on my radar. But I'm the opposite of you I suppose. I don't like the lightweight of titanium, I like the heft of steel and it's color. For light weight I prefer resin.

Ultimately, as of now, I really like the SBGY series. The 013 is perfect dimensions and the 011 is a better design but slightly bigger. I'm a sucker for simple, clean dials and reliable specs, those dress watches nail both of those things in spades. I think an Omega SMP and an GS SBGY may be my grail watches all around.

My sister and I went to an AD tonight. Saw the SBGY013. It's gorgeous.

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Mr.Dee.Bater

That's pretty awesome, man. Did you paint them yourself???

Thanks. Most were painted by John Slawta at land shark bikes. The Fat Chance that was in the magazine was painted by his daughter Sara.

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Fiatjeepdriver

Here are the ones I still have:

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This one too though you have to see it on person to notice the small details.

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And the ones I've sold.

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If we are going off piste with custom bikes.....

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