What Makes The Perfect GMT Watch? I Think This Grand Seiko SBGM221 Comes Close!

Having a GMT function on a watch is one of the most practical complications, in my humble opinion. But I've often wondered what design elements of a GMT on a watch appeal to fellow watch enthusiasts?

Does the GMT movement inside the watch make all the difference (in-house travels GMT function or a callers GMT)? Perhaps you prefer the 24h-makings to be on a rotating bezel instead of on the dial? Or maybe it's all about the placement of the date window or how well the GMT hand can be distinguished from the rest of the watch?

The closest to a perfect GMT I've come has been with offerings from Grand Seiko; my SBGN003 (9F quartz) was in my collection for many years before moving on to my current SBGM221. The SBGM221 just combines excellent case/dial finishing with an amazing in-house GMT function (72h power, 35 jewels, travel GMT), and a comfortable and compact design. I'd love to know what GMT watches you guys are smitten with!

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That watch looks perfect to me 🤩🙌💪!

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The SBGM221 is gorgeous!

I love my GS GMTs!!!

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Ahhh this is something I have thought about ALOT actually and I think I have come up with my list of "Perfect" gmt design elements (assuming a traditional 4 hand style setup):

  1. A 24 hour scale on the dial/chapter ring. This for me is crucial as it allows me to set zulu time and always have it set.
  2.  A rotating bidirectional friction bezel with 24 hour scale and also minute ticks in between them so it can be used as a timing bezel.
  3.  Luminous dial, hands, and pip. This setup allows for use of the bezel even at night and for sleeping (yes I wear my watches to sleep).
  4. Date with no cyclops (actually hurts overall legibility in my opinion)
  5. Movement is a wash as long as there is a rotating bezel but my preference is still for a jumping hour hand as it is still slightly more convenient and elegant.
  6. 40x20×14ish dimensions or smaller/thinner as so many good gmts are let down by their cumbersome wearability.
  7. Materials are dealers choice but I have a soft spot for aluminum bezels myself.

My 2 cents 😊

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Love the legibility of this piece! And the case size is just perfect. 👌

Below are stock photos of my SBGE249 and the SBGE263. 

The newly released SBGE283 looks very interesting as well.

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Introducing: The Grand Seiko Spring Drive GMT 'Eagle' USA Limited Edition  SBGE263 And The U.S. GS9 Club - HODINKEE
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for the price its hard to beat GS in quality. Unmatched fit and finish on a macroscopic level.

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I find that the GMT hand on many GMT watches can be quite distracting if it isn't designed to be less visible than the main hour/minutes hands. I like the way that Rolex has handled it on the GMT Master II, since the GMT hand would never be confused for either the hour or minute hand. It's easy to find, but doesn't bully it's way into the mix shouting for attention.

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I also like the way that JLC has implemented the GMT function on the Reverso Squadra Hometime. Under normal circumstances, the second hour hand sits invisibly underneath the main hours hand, hiding the fact that it's a GMT watch. When you travel and arrive at your destination, you can set the hour hand to your local time (without stopping the movement), and the skeletonized hour hand remains to show your "home time". It's there when you need it, but hides away when you don't.

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Mr.Dee.Bater

The SBGM221 is gorgeous!

I love my GS GMTs!!!

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Awesome shots!

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faisal

Love the legibility of this piece! And the case size is just perfect. 👌

Below are stock photos of my SBGE249 and the SBGE263. 

The newly released SBGE283 looks very interesting as well.

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Introducing: The Grand Seiko Spring Drive GMT 'Eagle' USA Limited Edition  SBGE263 And The U.S. GS9 Club - HODINKEE

Wow...  you know your limited editions!!!  Damn fine watches you got there!

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Love love love the 221. I hope they don’t discontinue this baby. Pictures don’t do it justice, it’s relatively inexpensive for GS, and an absolute strap monster. 

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Mr.Dee.Bater

Wow...  you know your limited editions!!!  Damn fine watches you got there!

Thank you, feel very humbled 🙏

My local watch shop got me into GS early, so was lucky enough to pick up a few LEs. I just checked out your impressive GS collection and love every piece in there! Tried on the White Birch a few weeks ago and MAN.... that piece is ridiculous!!! You have to see it in the metal to really appreciate it. The fit on my wrist was very comfortable and balanced. It is on my list :)

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GS makes for the best macro watch porn. Envious here

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faisal

Thank you, feel very humbled 🙏

My local watch shop got me into GS early, so was lucky enough to pick up a few LEs. I just checked out your impressive GS collection and love every piece in there! Tried on the White Birch a few weeks ago and MAN.... that piece is ridiculous!!! You have to see it in the metal to really appreciate it. The fit on my wrist was very comfortable and balanced. It is on my list :)

🙏

Yeah!  I think GS really took to heart all the complaints about the thickness of all their models.  The new Evolution 9 design really is much more comfortable.  Very intelligently, they've priced all the Evolution 9 models way above their previous Heritage and Sport collections!

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Beautiful watch, no question, but for me GMT perfection has to include a bi-directional 24 hour beze.

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I have two words that ruined my passion for GMTs.... world timer. It's like a GMT on steroids!

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faisal

Love the legibility of this piece! And the case size is just perfect. 👌

Below are stock photos of my SBGE249 and the SBGE263. 

The newly released SBGE283 looks very interesting as well.

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Introducing: The Grand Seiko Spring Drive GMT 'Eagle' USA Limited Edition  SBGE263 And The U.S. GS9 Club - HODINKEE

Love the Eagle. I would love to own that watch, but at 110 pieces, there was absolutely no way I was getting my hands on one when it was released.

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GoingTopShelf

Love the Eagle. I would love to own that watch, but at 110 pieces, there was absolutely no way I was getting my hands on one when it was released.

It’s always luck of the draw with these LEs. One nice change has been the GS Club for us in the US, some of the LEs can now be ordered through that website. Just gotta be quick with that credit card 😜

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faisal

It’s always luck of the draw with these LEs. One nice change has been the GS Club for us in the US, some of the LEs can now be ordered through that website. Just gotta be quick with that credit card 😜

Yes, but you need to be in the GS club. I haven't bought a GS watch yet. That one was going to be my first, but now it looks like I'll "settle" for it's sibling, either the 255 or 257.

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GoingTopShelf

Yes, but you need to be in the GS club. I haven't bought a GS watch yet. That one was going to be my first, but now it looks like I'll "settle" for it's sibling, either the 255 or 257.

That’s correct. 
Tried on the 257 and 💥💥💥

Would love to pick one up myself at some point. Good luck!

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OldSnafu

GS makes for the best macro watch porn. Envious here

They really do, thanks :)

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MissingMilo

Beautiful watch, no question, but for me GMT perfection has to include a bi-directional 24 hour beze.

Fair point. Thanks for the feedback on GMT preference :)

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Mr.Dee.Bater

The SBGM221 is gorgeous!

I love my GS GMTs!!!

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Fantastic choices - what’s the model number of the third one with lumed markers and hands?

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JiffPop

Fantastic choices - what’s the model number of the third one with lumed markers and hands?

Thank you so much, sir!  The third one is the SBGJ255.  It's a limited edition, and its claim to fame is that it's the only GS I could find that has the 44GS case design in titanium.   It's light as air, and super comfortable.

Though, I just found this listing on Chrono24.  Not sure if it's legit or not, given that it's so much lower  priced than all the other US listings.  But, if it is legit, then it's a great discount off MSRP!

https://www.chrono24.com/seiko/seiko-heritage-automatic-white-dial-titanium-mens-watch---sbgj255--id23041014.htm

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That sbgm221 is one of the most beautiful and dressy gmt watches on the market. Will defnitly consider a gs sometimes in the future and this one is a strong contender. But i just received an explorer 1 from my ad and my next one will be a damasko in may, so the gs experience has to wait a lil bit longer 😊 enjoy your gs gmt! 🙌

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I’m on your path, bit still quite happy with my SGBN005. Basic design is my perfect GMT. Maybe will move on a titanium version one day. 

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Definitely the 221. I also like the Hodinkee edition 239, but nothing pops like the ivory/cream/butter dial and marers of the 221. 

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Love the Seiko SBGM221.  Functionally, I assume it's the same simple setup as my Fortis.  GMT hand is set at the first click on the crown pull, with a clockwise turn, while the date is set with a counter-clockwise turn.

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The GMT-Master, on the other hand, sets by rotating the Pepsi bezel.

To me the Fortis/Seiko system makes more sense.  The Rolex is terrific, of course, but I love this Cosmonauts GMT with its steel bidirectional indexed countdown bezel.