Thoughts on the new Oris Big Crown Calibre 473?
Oris have just announced a new Big Crown model with a hand wound calibre that matches the USP of the Calibre 400 auto models: COSC level accuracy, 120 hours power reserve and 10y service intervals. There’s a power indicator on the back of a nice if utilitarian-looking movement and the general cost to quality ratio makes this hard to argue with from a value prop perspective.
However… I find that all the things that charmed me about the ‘old’ Big Crown models - coin edge bezel, cathedral hands, characterful Arabic numerals, crescent-shaped pointer - are now gone and the new design leaves me pretty cold, even the dial colours feel washed out and the legibility on this model feels like it would be an issue.
So: really impressive technical innovation and general directional improvement (38mm is where I want this - 40mm felt too big to me) but all the aesthetic design changes aren’t working for me. What’s the hot take, Crunchers? Yay or nay on the new Big Crowns?
Watch obsessive who believes smaller and cleaner trumps bigger and flashier. Much first hand love for Tudor, Grand Seiko, Longines, Oris, Hamilton, etc. while pining from afar for Rolex, Patek, VC, et...
I owned the 403 in the past, 5 days of power reserve is overkill on an auto imo, especially one that's intended as an everyday piece, I always thought it would be better if it was a manual wound and maybe we could shed a few mm from the thickness, and here it is. I think it's still pretty, my favorite of this new style is the wings of hope only because of the color play, but I like this one too, especially the contrast of that red pointer, don't miss all the other elements, cathedral hands, coing edge bezel as much, I do miss the numeral font, that 4 shape was something else and wish they bring some of it back.
Love the Oris Big Crown. I also love that the originals can be found for around $1000. Great value. The 400 movement addition is nice, but like all Oris, I would wait to pick it up later.
I owned the 403 in the past, 5 days of power reserve is overkill on an auto imo, especially one that's intended as an everyday piece, I always thought it would be better if it was a manual wound and maybe we could shed a few mm from the thickness, and here it is. I think it's still pretty, my favorite of this new style is the wings of hope only because of the color play, but I like this one too, especially the contrast of that red pointer, don't miss all the other elements, cathedral hands, coing edge bezel as much, I do miss the numeral font, that 4 shape was something else and wish they bring some of it back.
Ouch, just saw it costs $4400, third party movements all the way then, the upgrades don't justify the price hike IMO.
While I love the small seconds hand and the colour, this is where it ends. I prefer the 40 mm size as well as the above-mentioned features of the original. So, what a relief, as I don't have add another item to my long list of watches I will never be able to afford to own, anyway.
I like the new BCPDs, I LOVE the older BCPDs (that's why I got me one). They are still nicer, but I agree: the previous generation had more satisfyingly vintage design elements (even though the very first Big Crown from the 30's looked a lot like the new ones, to be fair...)
The only thing that's bothering me: Screw-down crown (apparently) + manual winding don't go together all that well, imo.
Ouch, just saw it costs $4400, third party movements all the way then, the upgrades don't justify the price hike IMO.
That’s where I’m at with the new stuff Oris is doing. It’s great and all, but they’re pushing the prices up faster than I can follow. I don’t think I’ll be buying anything with their in-house movements any time soon.
Actually, I think that all the things you mentioned about the design changes are improvements, and make the watch a lot more desirable for most people - though I understand how making the watch less Quirky and more Mainstream would be disappointing for some :/
To answer your question, the 473 has…
Large beveled edges for all of the jewel sinks and bridges; look at where the bridges meet and how each side has a polished bevel. Also the jewels sinks. In short, a higher level of finishing. Such long, continuous polished bevels are rare at this price point, even if done by machine.
As someone else mentioned, more jewels > less friction on the moving parts
Addition of a patented power reserve indicator which is more complex to build and rarer than a winding rotor
The clasp has infinite micro adjust, an innovative feature. The strap has no holes. It’s all done by friction and sliding the strap through the buckle.
More expensive sustainable deer leather strap.