Bites: This micro is doing what Rolex should be!

Hello fellow Crunchies!

So what on earth is going on with todays banner picture? Why is that guy cutting a stick of molten steel with scissors and what in the name of Breguet has that got to do with watches? I shall explain all in todays 3-6-9, but first lets have our weekly community updates….

New Member Welcome

A big WC style welcome to the new folks I’ve seen posting this week… @Chas7229, @Beefdrippings, @marshaaa, @literallyabowlofpetunias, @ceong90, @tinymachines, @matlun, @Dynomite, @Hillman1, @ShinyDial, @r0nd09, @gregnoobwatch, @shjshake, @CurtWatchGuy.

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Watch Crunch Meetup Exploring the Rolex certified pre-owned scheme, London, UK – 21st Feb

SoCal WatchCrunch Meetup – Ventura, California – 25th Feb

District Time by Tsao Baltimore: watch event – Washington – 4th-5th March

Birmingham Clock and Watch Fair, Birmingham, UK – 12th March

London WatchCrunch Meetup: Part II, London, March 31st

Watches and Wonders 2023, Geneva, Switzerland – March 27th – April 2nd

WatchCrunch Meetup @ Watches and Wonders – Geneva, Switzerland – April 1st

Windup Watch Fair 2023, San Francisco, CA – April 28th – 30th

If you know of any other events happening then let me know in the comments and I will add them to this list.

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@Darkoverlord chose the subject of ‘Cars’ for last weeks photography club, which inspired some very cool photographs indeed. He chose @fiatjeepdriver to be our winner with this lovely shot…..

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This weeks judge is @BigIona and you can find out his pick for this weeks theme and also the top runners up from last week on this weeks WatchCrunch Photography Club thread. The post is open for everyone to join in, so come showoff your talent or soak up some inspiration.

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Here are all the latest watch releases from the past week…

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Top row left to right:

New yellow and black Meistersinger, Baume et mercier GMT, Bell and Ross skeleton, Roger dubuis excalibur spin stone, Tissot supersport chronometer

Second row:

Frederique Constant 35th anniversary world timers, Blancpain fifty fathoms 70th anniversary watch, New Casio Frogman, Arnold and son globetrotter platinum, New Modello Uno

Third row:

New BWG, Cuervo y Sobrinos Historiador asturias, Zodiac x Huckberry, Excelsior park Soda Fountain, Chronoswiss limited edition

Fourth row:

Hublot Save our Rhino Collab, Singer limited edition, New Seiko Field Watches, New Konstantin Chaykin

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This weeks hot posts that you should check out are asking the big questions:

@Asmara82 asks Why are we here?

@Watchme1 asks Are you a victim of influence?

@justingalore asks Why did I even bother?

@HotWatchChick69 asks Will you buy this watch from me? with his latest charity watch auction. Go see what beauty he has up for grabs this week!

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Here is this weeks selection of longer posts on WC, for when you fancy a more in-depth read. I’m going to start including some reviews in this section because there is some great writing that goes on in the reviews tab.

Invicta 1953 Review - @ofQuartz gives a great review of one of the more restrained Invicta's.

ESS Military Royal Review - @pallet_fork does a review of this truly budget special with humour and macro shots.

Follow the great white hunter - @whitesalmon lets us in on some tips and tricks for picking up eBay bargains.

Watches in the Wild: London calling - @Edge168n updates us on his watch spotting travels.

My story, my future and the grail - @andreSVP writes beautifully and with heart about his grail watch.

As an added extra this week @ChronoGuy has ‘collaborated’ with ChatGPT to create an article on the history of Minerva. Go see how it worked out!

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The games we play - Part 3 of 3 (or: This micro is doing what Rolex should be!)

At the end of Part 2, last week, my watch gamble had taken us into a strange corner of the watch world, inhabited by dodgy microbrands treading the thin line between ‘edgy’ and ‘ugly’ design. In the end I decided to take a chance on the crazy Electricianz Steelz. Watch reviews are wickedly difficult to do well, so I’m not going to attempt it, but this watch is a crazy amount of fun to wear. I have said before how much I love @AllTheWatches Fallout Laco and this gives me similar vibes. I bought 2 colourways in the end (because that’s what watch-folk do) and I have to say the rose gold is VERY full on and not for the shy or faint of heart. Apart from the fact the second hand on one of them is slightly off the indices, I’m very happy with my buys and they were worth the £225 each. The gamble paid off this time, though I did have to be brave an ignore some red flags. A big red flag for me for me on this occasion was the brands slight shadiness around the watches production. The Electricianz push themselves as a ‘swiss brand’, but from what I can glean from research, the watch is actually completely produced in China.

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I have no problem with a watch being produced in China, but I do have a problem with brands misleading customers. Now while I was lost down the ‘weird watch’ rabbit hole these past few weeks I crossed paths with the microbrand Code 41. You may well have heard of them, perhaps not for their watches, but rather this….

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But what makes me bring up this brand isn’t their funky take on the pocket watch, but rather their policy of ‘Total Transparency on Origin’. Essentially, for every watch in their range they have provided a detailed breakdown of all the costs involved in manufacture, where production took place and the origin of all the parts involved.

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The radical honesty is very refreshing given the smoke and mirrors that many brands seem to play behind, including some luxury names. I mentioned Rolex, but ultimately a few of the big players would benefit from more openness. On the face of it, it seems like a great idea, the watch industry adopting a culture of true transparency so we know exactly where your precious watch money is going. But is it more a case of…

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Would you want to know the truth of how much you are actually paying for the Rolex (or any other!) name on the dial?

Would it change your desire for a watch if you knew the profit margins involved?

Would you be more likely to buy from a brand that was open about its sourcing and production?

Do you even care where your watch is made?

Take care my friends. Till next week!

Top photo: The purpose-built Rolex foundry where the gold for its watches is cast. Probably legitimately adds a few £££ to the price tag.

Reply
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Good stuff as always.

I’d say that it’s smart of brands to keep costs and profits secret. The truth is, we’re paying for how we feel about a watch, not the parts and labor. So disclosing pricing may work for a micro that operates on a business basis, but that’s not how Rolex or Omega work. They base prices on what they can get away with. If you question that, ask yourself why the Wilsdorf “charity” has so much money. Ask yourself why Omega just boosted prices on watches they haven’t done more work on.

Maybe micros base prices on what went into the watch, but make no mistake. If they ever get to the point of having people lust after their watches, if they ever become status symbols, that pricing model will go right out the window.

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Thank you Kaysia! As always great content especially in your"Rambling" section.

Enjoy your new watches!

Cheers!

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thekris

Good stuff as always.

I’d say that it’s smart of brands to keep costs and profits secret. The truth is, we’re paying for how we feel about a watch, not the parts and labor. So disclosing pricing may work for a micro that operates on a business basis, but that’s not how Rolex or Omega work. They base prices on what they can get away with. If you question that, ask yourself why the Wilsdorf “charity” has so much money. Ask yourself why Omega just boosted prices on watches they haven’t done more work on.

Maybe micros base prices on what went into the watch, but make no mistake. If they ever get to the point of having people lust after their watches, if they ever become status symbols, that pricing model will go right out the window.

Yeah, agreed.

Do you think in our heart of hearts we know damn well there isn't anywhere near £10k of parts and labour in our luxury pieces?

Would it ruin that 'feeling' if we really knew? 🤦

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DeeperBlue

Yeah, agreed.

Do you think in our heart of hearts we know damn well there isn't anywhere near £10k of parts and labour in our luxury pieces?

Would it ruin that 'feeling' if we really knew? 🤦

Absolutely. We all know that there isn’t $50k worth of gold and craftsmanship in that Daytona, but those with the means still buy. I think if the actual numbers were thrown in our faces, many of us would lose our taste for a lot of these watches.

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jcwatch

Thank you Kaysia! As always great content especially in your"Rambling" section.

Enjoy your new watches!

Cheers!

Thank you @jcwatch!

I try to include a bit of something for everyone in these, whether you're just here for the watch pics or like to read my wafflings 😁🍻

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Excellent read. Thanks for sharing this example, it would be great if more brands did this, but alas, I doubt many other will follow suit. I am going to have to check them out when I get home.

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AllTheWatches

Excellent read. Thanks for sharing this example, it would be great if more brands did this, but alas, I doubt many other will follow suit. I am going to have to check them out when I get home.

Code 41 are very interesting. They seem to be running a campaign at the moment where you can own a share in the company. I think. I didn't delve too far into it, as I think it's only open to people in certain countries, but it's on their site.

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Really enjoying your excellent Bites! I have to say that I am not so concerned about where a watch is made as long as there is access to information on how the watch is made. Transparency is more important than nation of origin to me. After all, most watches have some components originating in China. 😉

Paying for branding just seems to be part of any business model. Look at current San Martin prices on AliExpress. Their prices were lower prior to a lot of good YouTube reviews.

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Great work! With life getting busy and not being able to frequent WatchCrunch as often as I'd like these newsletters are great to stay up to date!

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LumegaudAnar

Really enjoying your excellent Bites! I have to say that I am not so concerned about where a watch is made as long as there is access to information on how the watch is made. Transparency is more important than nation of origin to me. After all, most watches have some components originating in China. 😉

Paying for branding just seems to be part of any business model. Look at current San Martin prices on AliExpress. Their prices were lower prior to a lot of good YouTube reviews.

Yes, I think a lot of people, especially those who are new to the hobby, don't grasp what you can get away with under 'Swiss made'.

I did find a good graph about it somewhere.... I'll try to find it.

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LumegaudAnar

Really enjoying your excellent Bites! I have to say that I am not so concerned about where a watch is made as long as there is access to information on how the watch is made. Transparency is more important than nation of origin to me. After all, most watches have some components originating in China. 😉

Paying for branding just seems to be part of any business model. Look at current San Martin prices on AliExpress. Their prices were lower prior to a lot of good YouTube reviews.

Found it!

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This is the minimum in terms of parts and production for it the be 'Swiss made'

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unseenhero

Great work! With life getting busy and not being able to frequent WatchCrunch as often as I'd like these newsletters are great to stay up to date!

I'm glad they are useful 🍻

I think sometimes great posts can get buried, so it's nice to celebrate them here 👍

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DeeperBlue

Yes, I think a lot of people, especially those who are new to the hobby, don't grasp what you can get away with under 'Swiss made'.

I did find a good graph about it somewhere.... I'll try to find it.

What's most terrifying about that disclosure is the almost 300% markup between costs of production and the sales price -- in almost every model.

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Man, can you imagine if luxury makers didn't lie and cheat their way to the top? The rich would have much fewer options to waste their money on! What a horrific thought!

Some mystique makes for intrigue, but smoke and mirrors I can do without, I like the transparency, but I have to acknowledge living in the real, duplicitous, cancerously festering world we live in, and the humans and their corporations that make it that way.

All one can do is their best I guess, and I'll try to be the best consumer I know how to be.

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JBird7986

What's most terrifying about that disclosure is the almost 300% markup between costs of production and the sales price -- in almost every model.

I know, right! And they are the OPEN brand!

Can you imagine what the mark up is on the luxury brands?? 🤦

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Cometman

I think it'd be good to see how big their marketing budget is, relative to cost of building the watch.

A customer should not excessively overpay for a product because they need to fund a marketing team. **Mvmt, ahemmmmmm**

At the end of the day, you wear the watch, not the marketing, not the box or papers. Granted, you do also wear their logo and are indirectly market for them 😠.

You know what... There 5x counterfeits for every Rolex manufactured. I can't even market myself..

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DeeperBlue

Found it!

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This is the minimum in terms of parts and production for it the be 'Swiss made'

The Swiss Made branding rules say it all. Obviously, things cost more to make in western countries, we are not the epicenter of cheap manufacturing. So really a "Swiss Made" watch is mostly made elsewhere. But the even bigger question...how does this translate to human labour?

After all, one of the biggest allures of a Swiss Watch is in the craftsmanship is it not? Are we paying mostly for time spent by low/mid-skilled factory workers, robots or actual Swiss watch makers? This might open up another debate about national interests, etc. etc. But Swiss foreign policy / jobs market aside, assuming we only look at quality delivered to the consumer; does this matter more?

I would be ok if every single part came from China (they are technically able to manufacture high quality parts) if it was mostly assembled by a skilled watchmaker vs mostly assembled elsewhere and just finished off by a skilled watch maker. I myself am perfectly capable of putting on a dial and hands on a working movement. So from my very biased POV I would rather pay top dollar for someone's experience, more so than paying for the sum of the parts which can be easily automated these days.

My ongoing assumption is that only very expensive Swiss brands (like the holy trinity) actually have skilled watchmakers doing a lot of work. All the others below the $20k mark are likely relying mostly on outsourcing work and doing the equivalent of just QC locally (i.e. Switzerland).

So what are we paying for? The privilege to buy a design from the original designer. Watches are like stocks, they're worth what people think they are, no intrinsic value to be measured. But why bemoan over it? That's literally how 90% of what we buy works when it comes to consumer products 😀 At least watches are more fun and reliable than a stupid fridge that breaks down every 5 years.

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DeeperBlue

I'm happy you enjoyed the read 🍻

I don't even bother looking at the price of Blancpain. I am never going to be pleasantly surprised that they've decided to release a budget range am I? 😆

P.s. my next choice of watch is even more out there 🤭 but I need to do some saving up for that one.

Can't wait to see your next choice if it's anything as good as your last one👍👍👍

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Great summary and I like the link to Code 41. There’s lots of interesting stuff in the watch community, always something new.

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tonmed

The Swiss Made branding rules say it all. Obviously, things cost more to make in western countries, we are not the epicenter of cheap manufacturing. So really a "Swiss Made" watch is mostly made elsewhere. But the even bigger question...how does this translate to human labour?

After all, one of the biggest allures of a Swiss Watch is in the craftsmanship is it not? Are we paying mostly for time spent by low/mid-skilled factory workers, robots or actual Swiss watch makers? This might open up another debate about national interests, etc. etc. But Swiss foreign policy / jobs market aside, assuming we only look at quality delivered to the consumer; does this matter more?

I would be ok if every single part came from China (they are technically able to manufacture high quality parts) if it was mostly assembled by a skilled watchmaker vs mostly assembled elsewhere and just finished off by a skilled watch maker. I myself am perfectly capable of putting on a dial and hands on a working movement. So from my very biased POV I would rather pay top dollar for someone's experience, more so than paying for the sum of the parts which can be easily automated these days.

My ongoing assumption is that only very expensive Swiss brands (like the holy trinity) actually have skilled watchmakers doing a lot of work. All the others below the $20k mark are likely relying mostly on outsourcing work and doing the equivalent of just QC locally (i.e. Switzerland).

So what are we paying for? The privilege to buy a design from the original designer. Watches are like stocks, they're worth what people think they are, no intrinsic value to be measured. But why bemoan over it? That's literally how 90% of what we buy works when it comes to consumer products 😀 At least watches are more fun and reliable than a stupid fridge that breaks down every 5 years.

My ongoing assumption is that only very expensive Swiss brands (like the holy trinity) actually have skilled watchmakers doing a lot of work. All the others below the $20k mark are likely relying mostly on outsourcing work and doing the equivalent of just QC locally (i.e. Switzerland).

This is why Grand Seiko needs to be talked about more.

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Loved the “Bites” as always

Thank you so much for including my post. I truly am grateful for the opportunity of appearing on the big post’s highlights of this week ;)

Keep the great work and thank you again!

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Yet another outstanding installment!

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Thanks for the shoutout and as always thanks for another excellent newsletter!

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The bottom line is how much can I afford? How much do I want it? Am I willing to sacrifice to acquire it?

Profit margins do not mean that much; it is what it is.

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Robcollects

Great summary and I like the link to Code 41. There’s lots of interesting stuff in the watch community, always something new.

Thank you my friend. Glad you enjoyed 🍻

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tonmed

The Swiss Made branding rules say it all. Obviously, things cost more to make in western countries, we are not the epicenter of cheap manufacturing. So really a "Swiss Made" watch is mostly made elsewhere. But the even bigger question...how does this translate to human labour?

After all, one of the biggest allures of a Swiss Watch is in the craftsmanship is it not? Are we paying mostly for time spent by low/mid-skilled factory workers, robots or actual Swiss watch makers? This might open up another debate about national interests, etc. etc. But Swiss foreign policy / jobs market aside, assuming we only look at quality delivered to the consumer; does this matter more?

I would be ok if every single part came from China (they are technically able to manufacture high quality parts) if it was mostly assembled by a skilled watchmaker vs mostly assembled elsewhere and just finished off by a skilled watch maker. I myself am perfectly capable of putting on a dial and hands on a working movement. So from my very biased POV I would rather pay top dollar for someone's experience, more so than paying for the sum of the parts which can be easily automated these days.

My ongoing assumption is that only very expensive Swiss brands (like the holy trinity) actually have skilled watchmakers doing a lot of work. All the others below the $20k mark are likely relying mostly on outsourcing work and doing the equivalent of just QC locally (i.e. Switzerland).

So what are we paying for? The privilege to buy a design from the original designer. Watches are like stocks, they're worth what people think they are, no intrinsic value to be measured. But why bemoan over it? That's literally how 90% of what we buy works when it comes to consumer products 😀 At least watches are more fun and reliable than a stupid fridge that breaks down every 5 years.

Yes, very true. I guess this echoes comments above about the general ethos and practices in the production chain in places like China.

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AndreSVP

Loved the “Bites” as always

Thank you so much for including my post. I truly am grateful for the opportunity of appearing on the big post’s highlights of this week ;)

Keep the great work and thank you again!

Thank you my friend! Your post was awesome 👌

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Whitesalmon

Yet another outstanding installment!

Thank you! ❤ I'm always pleased to hear when people are getting some value or enjoyment from these

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ChronoGuy

Thanks for the shoutout and as always thanks for another excellent newsletter!

Thank you!🍻

I shall look out for your future collabs 😁

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DeeperBlue

Thank you!🍻

I shall look out for your future collabs 😁

Thanks - I did another one here on Doxa...

https://www.watchcrunch.com/ChronoGuy/posts/a-brief-history-of-doxa-courtesy-of-chatgpt-27325

Enjoy!

More to come...